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The Corroboree

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/07/22 in Posts

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    I got my seeds two or so weeks ago - I put them into a modified takeaway tek and here is the progress.
  3. 2 points
    r/shroomers r/druggardening r/activecacti r/AcaciaTrees r/peyote r/salvia r/ausents r/ausgrow r/AustralianPlantSwap r/doommetal () r/CannabisScholar r/CannabisExtracts r/composting r/earthporn r/homesteading r/microgroweryAustralia r/greenhouses r/permaculture r/HotPeppers r/hammockcamping r/spacebuckets Lol.. Might give you a few places to link off from mate. Won't put up my prepper, porno and bizarre reddits.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Who'z up for some Acid Crunk
  6. 2 points
  7. 1 point
    Hey brother, I would love some seeds if there's still some available? I'll PM you. Cheers
  8. 1 point
    Interesting, I've found that 1/4 of the staff are drug/alcohol dependent no matter where Im working. Anyway, one step at a time, but make the legal prescription a top priority. Just tell the doctor that you tried a friend's oil and it was a life changing moment for your sleep and anxiety. You have to sell your case a bit, and make sure he realises it's medicinal all the way, and you're 100% serious, no funny business. Anyway acceptance of medicinal cannabis is getting better by the month, people can't discriminate against you over a legal medication. How dare they!
  9. 1 point
    NP for me, I'll get there with Sharxxy at some point. The spots you mention were all closed off again relatively recently due to ferals leaving their crap (literally crap) and some unfortunate homeless with nowhere else to go had been long staying as well, but of course there are no facilities to support them doing that. They get closed off periodically every few years, maybe they've opened up again. Pretty sure Twinnies is still closed off, as is Savages, but I just need the time to drive to the others to see if they are still accessible. Think the Lowood stretch is closed too. Used to be able to get upstream of Savages and bypass the bollards etc, but I think residential development has closed that access.
  10. 1 point
    Yeah, well, that was the plan. I'd been gathering plant material over the past few months, keeping a few choice segments aside, darkening, ripening. Instant Pot to the rescue. My one solitary home-grown lime. On a whim, interstate travel impending, ... skip to the bit where I simmer on down One thing led to another. Troubleshootin' an integrated amp, poor man's silicone hifi my one last shot ... backfired. All the meanwhile I'd been roiling down, having shunted to Aldi cauldron. What's that acrid smell? No, not the amp ... rather, a fusion of enamelware and medicine melded together, burnt beyond recognition -- self-inquire: scrape that up, encapsulate? weirdest of all, I levitate above pungent, black blistering mire
  11. 1 point
    I've been busy man and haven't had a chance. Dunno if I'll get the chance this weekend either...
  12. 1 point
    Not yet sure where I’ll be staying, but I’m planning on attending. Be there or be a four-sided shape!
  13. 1 point
    The main actives are normally considered to be withanolides which are steroidal lactones ie more fat soluble so it's likely to primarily be the ethanol that extracts them. For a very crude extraction: Drying and powdering the root first helps. I'd do alcohol first as that's likely to be the best solvent and maybe the only one needed? Sit the dry, powdered root (weigh it first) in sufficient warm ethanol and leave to extract. As for how much, depends how much you have to spare! Pour off the ethanol filtering through something - I use a hop brew straining bag to filter it, if you fold it over itself a few times you get a good filter for bulk herbs -saving the filtrate and repeat again, extracting the root material, if possible with a second lot of alcohol. Wash the material in the filter with some alcohol too. Carefully evaporate it and dry to resin/powder. You could repeat using boiling water to extract (boil it in water, filter, evaporate to leave resin, dehydrate to powder) Filter bag: That said, it seems the best solvent is 50:50 alcohol:water as a single extraction solvent: "The maximum extract yield and the total withanolide and phenolic content were obtained from aqueous alcoholic compositions at 50:50 (v/v), 70:30 (v/v), and 100:0 (v/v), respectively" so maybe a single extraction with 50% ethanol is better than doing two separate extractions! On Ashwagandha, if you're not averse to alcohol, you could also try an ashwagandharishtha-style preparation [1]. It's a really pleasant way to take the medicine, if you don't mind the interesting flavour. "Emerging evidence suggests the ability of fermentation to enhance the bioactivity and therapeutic potential of traditional medicines. Indeed, the fermentation was shown to increase the availability of the active molecules and to eliminate the undesired compounds." Ashwagandharishtha is a liquid polyherbal formulation traditionally prepared by fermentation process using the flowers of Woodfordia fruticosa. It contains roots of Withania somnifera as a major crude drug. Alcohol generated during the fermentation causes the extraction of water insoluble phytoconstituents. Yeasts present on the flowers are responsible for this fermentation. I simply fermented ashwagandha root etc with added yeast and sugar. [1] https://doi.org/10.1016/j.imr.2013.04.002 [2] https://www.ayurmedinfo.com/2011/06/27/ashwagandharishta-uses-ingredients-dose-and-side-effects/
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Not missing this for the world Is the one chance I have every few years to catch up with so many lovely old friends and colleagues all at once, talk plants and nobody gets bored, and hang out with Kaz at the bookstore Caine, Jess and I will be running practical workshops, which is always a lovely synergy If you've never been to an EGA before they are *famously* welcoming. No need worry about feeling shy. There's room for everyone<3
  16. 1 point
    If its spore print, scrape spores carefully into a shot glass/egg cup or of the likes using the tip of a clean blade. Using a sterile syringe full of sterile water, shoot some water into the shot glass. Suck up the spores. You want to empty the whole syringe into the shot glass and suck the water back up trying to get it all back in. It's best done in 'one fell swoop'. It takes some practice to get the hand of it. If print is on foil, glass slide, or a petri dish you can shoot some of the fluid from the syringe back on to the print and into the shot glass, to get to the last of the spores. Once you're happy with the amount of spores you've captured in the syringe, you can empty it back into the shot glass, and then suck the multispore (MS) solution back into the syringe, do this a few times. 2 or 3 times will suffice. This helps to separate the spores as they love to clump together. You now have a multispore syringe Just keep in mind that MS syringes usually do carry a few contaminants with them.
  17. 1 point
    Something a bit different...
  18. 1 point
    I do have experience with the air still. The air still will produce an end result of around 60% ABV. Traditionally you collect the first 700-800ml after which the quality of the product drops off very quickly. You then water it down to 1 - 1.25 litre at 40% abv. They are designed to not produce methanol at the start so seperating heads, body and tails is not necessary with the air still. Although for your purposes the "heads" of the process will be a much higher percentage ABV... Probably in the 90s. I couldn't tell you the volume you would get at that ABV though, my guess would be maybe 100ml, but that really is just a guess and would have to be experimented with. The way a still works for alcohol is based on the fact that alcohol boils and evaporates at a lower temperature than water. 80°c for ethanol and 100°c for water. So as the still heats up the ethanol evaporates and comes out first (along with some methanol, but not in the air still). The other thing is, based on preference but very much suggested, is that the alcohol then needs to be filtered through charcoal. The air still comes with a kit to do this but the kit only works for alcohol at 40% or below. The answer in the end is that the air still can be used for your purposes but it isn't the ideal product for it. I get that it is half the price of a bigger, better still but if very high ABV alcohol for tinctures is all you want you should probably get a real still. The air still is basically the "distilling for dummies" tool, which isn't to knock it because it is actually a good product. But it's really only made for one thing and that is to make a 40% ABV neutral spirit. Getting anything else out of it will be going against the recommendations of what it is for and is up to you. If you do decide it is what you want to use then here are the tips I will give you. Use turbo yeast packets, they are the best for your purposes and also contain nutrients for the yeast. Use 100% dextrose if you can. It produces a much smoother end result than other sugars and is 100% fermentable meaning if all goes right it will be totally gone at the end of fermentation and no lingering bits will hang around effecting the taste. Other sugars don't completely disappear like dextrose does. Although if you want to save money and don't care as much about any of that, then just bags of sugar from Coles work too. Add liquid charcoal to your fermenter. It will keep the fermentation process from getting contaminated and is easy enough to remove at the end of the process when you add your clearing agents. Degas the brew thoroughly before distilling. Think of how fizzy a bottle of coke is, that is about as carbonated as your brew is going to be. The goal is basically to make that bottle of coke go flat. People stir the crap out of it for as long as they can to get all the bubbles out, this process is a pain in the ass. I prefer to put a second fermenter under the other one and turn the tap so it all comes pouring out from one into the other. As the brew lands in the second container it will de-gas little by little. Just repeat the process over and over. It will take just as long but is easier than stirring with a stick. You can get away with not completely getting every last bubble out when it comes to the air still. But it is dangerous to try and distil carbonated brew in any still. There are little ceramic things you throw in the bottom of the still which help break up any bubbles and "distilling conditioner" that will do the same. These are what make it not so bad to half ass the degassing a touch. I still wouldn't recommend it though, bubbles can lead to booms. You will read the instructions to the still anyway so I am not going to go through every step. Just remember when you turn it off at the end DO NOT open it straight up. Leave it for a full day to cool down and it really will take that long. This slows down the process a fair bit since it takes 4 litres at a time so you have to 5-6 runs for one 23 litre fermenter worth (other stills will do the whole thing in one run). But don't risk opening it up early, severe burns can happen. Apart from that, the thing is pretty safe to use compared to other stills. It has an automatic killswitch that prevents it from running while dry. And the top of it provides enough of a seal to do the job, but not enough to create a bomb. Plus there is no flames needed which can be dodgy around alcohol vapours. But yeah dude, that is all I can think to add on the air still, ask if you want to know anything specific.
  19. 1 point
    Some photos wot I took. Only 2, 3, and 4 were edited.
  20. 1 point
    An reply which fails to answer the question. Traditional doesn't mean safe. Cytotoxic is cytotoxic, whichever way you splice it. And there's plenty of money to be followed along the path of TCM, and in fact, such revered brews like ayahuasca.
  21. 1 point
    Hope you're keeping well Ferdie, keen to see how this is coming along!
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Ton, I have dreamed about this for so many years it is so awesome it is now finally coming to life. I have taken a bit of a break the last few weeks, I am up to leveling out the area and digging pipework in where it needs to be, and wet weather is not helping the motivation, but it is a big project and I want it done right so I don’t mind waiting a little more. The salt I will order from a business that runs float tanks, they import direct from germany and have given me a good price to start with when I eventually order some, since I need about half a tonne of it. The water temperature is a bit tricky. Once it reaches temp and I add the salt it sort of has to stay warm forever because it is at saturation point at temp, so when it cools the salt crashes out of solution, causing issues with pumps and filters. This is my biggest concern. I think I will use a hydroponics waterbed heater for the most part, and turn it off while I float, hopefully the insulation will keep it at temp for the duration, but this will be one of those things that I will have to adjust as I use it and work the kinks out. An old farm I lived on had a firebath, light a fire underneath and an hour later human soup! I did think about trying to use a rocket stove somehow for this, but I will keep that for another project, or maybe the next one? This is only a prototype after all...
  23. 1 point
    Hey mate, are these different types of seedlings or species or the same? Different species have different growth rates, both in regards to the body and the roots. Then, the soil definitely looks different in structure, which could make a big difference too. Even if it's the same ingredients, their structure might be different or there might be additional add-ons in one soil that aren't visible, e.g. clay dust is often added to improve the root formation. Also, soil pH might be different, which could make rooting easier or more difficult. Position in the greenhouse/garden/environment might play a part too. A spot that's in full sun means less soil humidity and one that's more in the shade would provide more humidity in the soil. Both have effect on the roots. And yeah, nutrient availability or fertilizer composition might be different. For example, I use extracts and fertilizers containing silica because it improves the root formation dramatically. Lots of ways to look into this and hard to tell what the culprit was. Bye Eg
  24. 1 point
    I am glad someone picked up on that as it is something that has been on my mind a lot lately. There is a core group of really dedicated people who really are a community (or maybe several communities, or just one large very fractured community), and then there are the vast majority of temporary 'hangers on'. And I don't mean that in a derogative way!! The sheer number of people who have passed through this community and the associated lifestyle and mind set is astounding. In fact it is about the same as what I experiened in the rave scene. In the rave scene it was simply the process of growing up, moving on, getting serious, etc that caused a high rate of attrition. In the EB scene there are similar processes at work. When I look at the lives of many of my old rave buddies I wonder what they really gained from their 2 years on the wild side (mind you, acid was still prominent in the rave scene in those days). Many are in dead boring job, have the same mortgage as everyone else, too many kids, high consumption lifestyle, and generally they lead a conservative life. And that is where the big difference is. I was wondering whether the core EB group isn't just wasting their time trying to make an impact as most noobs just wander off again a few months/years later. However, it turns out many people in the EB scene seem to take a piece of it with them in their later development, which does seem to make it all worthwhile. The problem now is to make the core group understand that they should not get frustrated with the lack of long term dedication most 'members' of this wider community seem to exhibit. They are not here for the long term dedication. However, most are also not here for the short term thrill either - although undoubtedly some are. We need to realise that all we are doing is facilitating a step in the growing up process. That most 'initiants' won't hang around for long and that we have done our job even if only a few of them take a small part of what they have learnt and integrate it into their future lives. We simply serve a purpose. Like parents, teachers, school bullies, rolemodels, shaman, 'Young Liberals', etc we help youngsters to find their own path. But I think it is almost impossible to ask them to give anythign in return - it's not their time to do so. I presume that most of this will have little effect for 10 or 20 years and maybe the greatest effect will be on the next generation (history would indicate so).
  25. 1 point
    the old stem section will not die, roots will form eventually. but take the pups off and root them straight away. the new pups will form roots fast and you are off the mark, whilst waiting for the big old section to get its own roots, would be time consuming, and the pups will not grow much in the mean time, because they get all there energie from a section without roots and absorbe moisture only via its skin and calluse.
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