mimosa hostilis

[subaer]

Hello,

I am trying to repot mimosa hostilis in a clay based soil. The problem is I need to improve drainage in the clay soil, as the drainage is poor. Should I add gypsum? Would adding forest mulch or other organic matter help, without causing any problems with toxicity, like in acacia's with phosporus? What other thing's can be added to improve the soil (sand)?

[waterboy 2.0]

Why a clay based soil in a pot? I am guessing its soil from your area placed into pots?

[sethomopod]

Sand is not recommended as you have to use alot to achieve any significant result..

The easiest way (adding organic matter can take months) is to use a commercial soil conditioner. There are products available specifically designed to treat clay soils..

Google is your friend...

[Alice]

You won't improve clay soil overnight.

Mound it.

[tonic]

It's not an Australian native, by the way.

[DarkSpark]

gah, beat me to it !

i would use gypsum, and churn through some mulch and stuff.

Maybe get an escavator to dig you a huge hole and fill with nice dirt ?

[incognito]

Excavators are pretty cheap nowadays ;)

Dig in some gypsum and horse poo, get some worms going.

[Sallubrious]

Like Alice said - mound it up would be a good approach.

If you dig in too much organic stuff into a hole in hardpan clay it can cause problems. The hole you prepare can then fill with water and leave the plant waterlogged. I'd just loosen the soil with a spudbar and then sprinkle gypsum and compost around and then hose it in. Give it a good mulch after you plant the tree.

That's if you are planting into the ground, you did say repot in the first post. Clay just doesn't work in pots. I'd only ever use a small amount of clay in a pot up to about 10% max.

[OPP]

Just throwing it out there, how about some perlite mixed through the broken up clay?

[ThunderIdeal]

NOT ALL CLAYS RESPOND TO GYPSUM

http://www.agric.wa.gov.au/PC_92439.html

it's a simple test you can do before you dig a hundred bags of gypsum into your property. if you're clay isn't responsive to gypsum i don't think there's much for it. maximise organic matter, raise beds, choose plants that can hack it.

[curaezipirid]

I thought the advantage of gypsum is that it works its way down into clay, without needing to be mechanically dug down by human hand. So it is a good option for a place you may want to establish a no dig garden bed, and/or, if you don't want a hole in the clay pan to fill up with water.

Also, if it is going into a larger pot, although it seems silly to use clay in a pot because we don't need to, I often put into pots some of the soil from the surrounding garden, mixed with whatever is the cheapest potting mix I find, just to see how the plant is going to cope in the local soil conditions, before transplanting it into the ground. Might give the plant a chance to adjust itself too, depending if it is able to adjust.

Edited April 30, 2012 by curaezipirid

[PsychMaster]

M. Hostilis...isn't the bark of that DMT orally active without any MAOI's?

[space cadet swami]

I don't think any DMT is orally active without an MAOI...maybe through the mucus membrane..? guessing instead of googling...lol

[Torsten]

M. Hostilis...isn't the bark of that DMT orally active without any MAOI's?

 

yes, correct. it appears Mh has compounds that protect it from MAO without them being MAOIs.

still not a native though, so I am moving the thread.

[space cadet swami]

^^^interesting curve ball...

[CβL]

yes, correct. it appears Mh has compounds that protect it from MAO without them being MAOIs.

Do you have a source for that T? My admittedly vague memory remembers that it was suspected to be a compound that contained DMT within it's structure.

[phyllode]

Oral activity of MH is thought to be due to Yuremamine, has within it the DMT molecule, and it's destroyed by any heat, acid or base.

See: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208 (Vepsalainen et al 2005)

and https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26000 (which has the structure of Yuremamine and other links, though is initially about DMT-N-Oxide).

I heard there's a record of MH naturalised in Cape York.

[mutant]

wow!

what someone can learn !!!!

[icekila]

Oral activity of MH is thought to be due to Yuremamine, has within it the DMT molecule, and it's destroyed by any heat, acid or base.

See: http://www.ncbi.nlm....pubmed/16320208 (Vepsalainen et al 2005)

and https://www.dmt-nexu...g=posts&t=26000 (which has the structure of Yuremamine and other links, though is initially about DMT-N-Oxide).

I heard there's a record of MH naturalised in Cape York.

 

Nice info mate

[kadakuda]

my mimosa hostilis stand in meter deep water for days sometimes. they should be fine, but they dont like transplanting if your cutting roots bonsai style (i find).

[mindperformer]

I use crushed expanded clay, seramis-granulate, kanuma, diatomite (the last both for lower PH) and earthworm-soil from VermiGrand (also with charcoal but high PH) and nitrogene-fixing bacteria (Bacterial from NoMercy).

Be aware of the many wrong identified Mimosa hostilis- seeds, for example they are often M. verrucosa.

The seedlings grow very well:

[mindperformer]

I've also done many extractions from ordered rootbark and despite the indications, up to 50% it must have been the rootbark of something else...

Despite all that I got the best results with Jurema (when I got the real) compared with other Dimitri- and Ayahuasca-plants.

[mindperformer]

My plants thrive very well now on grinded clay-granulate-soil:

[Heretic]

My MH seem like they can't get enough water - they are in large tubs that sit in deep saucers which are filled with water daily . They seem to be able to use all the water they can get . I plan on transplanting into 100 litre tree sacks , and finding a way to place these in large saucer- type water holders . In the NT where the rampant M.Pigra has taken over , choking 1000s of sq km of floodplains and still spreading fast , it sits in metre plus deep water for months at a time ; yet it survives the dry season when the black soil dries out to the point it cracks everywhere . Just before the flooodplain soil completely dries out , the M. Pigra root and basal stem bark undergoes a period of rapid growth - it swells up like a sponge , as if to soak up as much water as possible before the dry season . Although M .Hostilis is reported to occur at up to 500m or higher , I believe the root bark has similar characteristics , and the best time to harvest may be after a wet period , and then allowing it to dry out for a while , when [ hopefully ] the root and basal bark swell up . I am also wondering if adding indole-3 butyric acid [ rooting ] powder - watering it in , while cutting back on water before harvest - coinciding with the local dry season - might actually increase the root bark harvested ? If anyone has grown or harvested mature MH , it would be interesting to hear of your experiences with this fascinating species . [ btw , the floodplain soil is like black mud when wet - but dries out like concrete with massive cracks - M . Pigra sure is one tough species to relish such extreme / harsh conditions ]

[mindperformer]

I am also wondering if adding indole-3 butyric acid [ rooting ] powder - watering it in , while cutting back on water before harvest - coinciding with the local dry season - might actually increase the root bark harvested ?I ]

i think this could induce a swell of rootbark, but i dont think it would increases the alkaloids.

my small plants soak very much water too, but i cant transplant them outside because of our strong winters

Edited September 21, 2012 by mindperformer