Jump to content
The Corroboree

.dg

Members2
  • Posts

    250
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by .dg

  1. the inner flesh always settles, make your scalloped cuts on the stock a bit bigger/deeper
  2. no need for additional feed or water for the fruit, just care for them like normal
  3. split grafts are usually from overwatering cut back on the love to reduce splits
  4. I'd keep it dry and in a dry space and it shouldn't get any worse. the spots will turn a dark color and stop spreading. but can turn black and grow in humid times. If i was in a humid space i'd dust w/sulfur if it gets worse
  5. yes, lophs are very susceptible to mites
  6. Leaf hopper, thats what we call them! apparently there are MANY insects called this. they eat plant sap here is some useful info on leafhoppers http://www.inhs.uiuc.edu/~dietrich/lfhFAQ.html
  7. Not sure what they are called, or if they bother cacti. But, they eat holes in my herb garden, so I give them a squash (if i can catch them)
  8. careful w/neem oil on the graft. oil can burn them if applied when the graft is if a sunny spot....
  9. i've grown trichs for a decade in soil with lots of decaying plant matter/compost/humus etc, and not had issues. typically i see the mineral based soil advice for slow growing cacti, no?
  10. Awesome thread guys, how about garden items for trade, like tobacco
  11. i've also used oils many times w/o trouble. i'd move them to the shade- or put up shade cloth so the sun didn't burn them after seeing others' troubles w/oils i typically dont recommend them anymore
  12. didn't read the whole thread- but too much sun? if you are feeding them at all i doubt its nutrient related pics?
  13. regular and very thorough spraying of many products work for mites. i've used neem extract with success- your aza product contains the same active you must spray every couple of days for 7-10 days to get rid of all the adults and freshly hatching eggs pay careful attention to the underside of leaves and nooks and crannies the eggs can be hiding spray all surrounding surfaces and other plants- even if they dont seem to be affected. once gone/ mite prone plants can use a preventative spray every month or two
  14. overwatering is a good way to split grafts IME
  15. ^ his azamax is neem extract. i've had good luck w/just neem extract in the past no bleach needed imo
  16. http://www.groworganic.com/therm-x70-yucca-extract-1-pint.html Yucca extract-best natural/organic spreader/wetting agent. use a bit on the dirt- save the rest to add to foliar spray mixes. really the best product out there
  17. its a lot easier out here than back east or mid-west at least mine can stay outside in the green house year round. those folks doing "dormant" time in the basement really have a labor of love
  18. Most of them are doing fine and growing. And if i didn't loose a few each year i'd need a bigger greenhouse really quickly. and thats not in the cards at the moment
  19. Not today- last weekend... surveyed cold damaged plants- cold down to 15*f. Friend forgot to close greenhouse for 2 weeks during cold snap. some death- some actively growing- go figure pics:
  20. is that discoloration near the bottom of the plant typical? (mite damage?)
  21. ph- soap is a chemical. why not just spray w/soapy water?
  22. like cacti i dont think they want published info about Acacia alkaloid concentrations here i might be wrong though?
  23. def not mites hard to tell 100% from the pic but i'm pretty sure you have aphids/mealies the ants are farming them. try ant bait-boric acid(not toxic)
  24. some great post in this thread- like Darklight points out you are in control of the environment i'd add- its important to know your pest. are the smaller than flea critters thrips or spider mites or? hard to battle an enemy if you dont know what it is! a hand held loupe is helpful be very careful using any oil product on cacti. especially in the sun! pictures of any damage would be very helpful in diagnosis
×
×
  • Create New...