ENtiTY

Yeah that is where I got my first one from. He is currently out of stock and won't have any for a while. Thanx though.

There are heaps of different types of cordyline fruticosa cultivars in OZ. No way there all be from a single genetic line.

Nothing that I stated is incorrect. Plant viruses do habitat and reproduce within plant cells. There are many vectors for plant viruses to spread from plant to plant but what I am getting at is that it is very unlikely that a virus will spread through the plant in the picture the way what ever is effecting it has. Yes there are viruses that produce ring patterns but fungal and bacterial diseases are much more common, many many of which produce ring shaped symptoms. As for fungal and bacterial infections not producing discolouration... that is absolutely wrong. Fungal infections will ALWAYS produce discolouration, especially during early infection, as the hyphea invade surrounding cells, steal nutrients and disrupt cell function. As the infection progresses a necrotic center can form from the consumed plant material and a discoloured halo will be visible surrounding the necrosis where the fungus is continuing to invade and feed. Sometimes this discolouration is yellow or sometimes it's red or pink. Depends upon the specific fungus and its host. Bacteria can produce similar symptoms to fungal with some differences. I'm not saying it's not a virus, I'm saying it's unlikely from what I can see from the image and considering the fact that plants fungal pathogens out number viral pathogens in variety and instance by more than 100 to 1. There is more I could say about the methodology of identifying plant diseases but I don't have the time at the moment so I'll leave it there.

Tube stock is usually grown to order and is not meant to sit indeffinately. Root bound plants produce week adult plants that a high percentage of meet an early demise. Get'em in the ground man! Yeah ferrets on the money. Those tubes are designed to go in a rack that hold them about 3cm off the deck which allows air and light around the base of the tube to stop root growth out of the tube.

I doubt very much that is a virus infection in the pic in the first post. Virus spread through a plant by infecting new cells produced from an infected cell. Therefore a virus would not spread "around" the column but only from the tip after initial infection. Also circular pattens tend to indicate either fungal or bacterial infections rather than viral, or possibly a sap sucking insect. Mutants close up pics look very much like a fungal infection but the rest of mutants pics and the pics in post 1 resemble some marking that I remember seeing on some of my PC after spraying with aerosol confidor on one occasion and pyrethrum on another.

With any plant propagation it is better to gradually increase the pot size according to root mass. This is because excessive potting media will hold to much moisture, potentially leading to rot issues or cause the plant to struggle and stress which in turn increases the plants suseptability to pests and disease. Of course the extent of how over potting effects any one particular species of plant is dependent upon its preferred conditions. In this case a tricho cut, rot will be an issue for sure so I would (and do with my tricho cuts) let the cuts show signs of producing roots before planting and then root in a 140ml black plastic pot, in a sandy composted bark medium. The black plastic pot will absorb the suns energy better, increasing soil temperature in the pot and enhance root development. All plants need nutrients to grow and the only way their going to get them in a pot is if you apply fertilizer. You want a complete NPK fert WITH trace elements. Incorperate a CONTROLLED RELEASE fertilizer into your potting mix before you pot your plant. Not slow release, CONTROLLED RELEASE. Might sound the same but there is a big difference, make sure it states "controlled release" on the product packaging. I'm not one for pushing brands but so you have a place to start AND as it is the most widely available in OZ, Osmocoate is an example of a good controlled release fertilizer. Controlled release ferts are more expensive than other ferts but they are the most efficient and consistant method of supplying nutrients to containerised plants, not to mention least laborious. Tricho's are heavy feeders so use the highest dose recommended. You may even need to supplement with a liquid fert once a month or so after it takes off. Again IME tricho's are very vigorous and will handle over potting very easy out of a 140ml pot as long as it is re-potted early in the growing season. You should have no worries at all putting a 140ml root ball into a 300ml pot this time of year. Full sun all the way for tricho's In relation to you fert questions... Seasol is not really a fert but a soil conditioner. It doesn't have practical levels of NPK to be considered a fertilizer. Only apply fert to rooted cacti. Controlled release ferts are ok to incorporate into unrooted pottings as you will not be applying enough water to release significant amounts of fert until roots have formed. You will know roots have formed as new growth will be evident in the tip of the cacti. Tricho's are not phosphorus sensitive like some Acacia and other native Australian plants are. Tricho's are fairly vigorous, some more than others, and I would call them heavy feeders.

They will be fine but will grow much much slower once the roots have filled the pot. Root mass and above ground mass are linked in most cases with plants. If you want a bigger trico then give it more root space.

Sceletium Oooohh PM on its way.

Always sad to hear about the passing of a member of the community. RIP friend, even though I never met you or can remember having had any dealings with you we shared a common interest and so I feel a sadness at the news of your passing. Condolences to his loved ones.

Holy crap! Met the guy once by chance at a market a couple of years back and obtained some plants that I have never come across in my travels since. A sad loss for sure. RIP Gom, I'm glad we got the chance to meet. Condolences to your loved ones.

Get a plant. Stevia seed is un-viable or has a very low viable % if I remember correctly. Please correct me if I am wrong

SAB has some available

I had obtusi on order from Austrahort about 2 years ago. Was out of stock when ordered and 6 months later they basically said they can't get the seed. Same thing at other places I used to order obtusi seed from. Why the shortage?

Heya all, Wondering if any peeps have some seeds of this one about in oz. If so would said peeps be willing to share/trade/sell some seeds. Also any experience of said peeps personal gnome, pixie, elf or foaf regarding this one would be warmly welcome . Not much on the forum about this one, not sure why .

varied genetics?

If ya'll would like to give imbricata a go the I can send you some cuts to start. Some have started to pup despite my extermination attempts Don't let this one get away on you though hey, its a declared pset!

Bit to late for this fella I'd say. Are there anymore buds forming?

imbricata rejects the scion when the plant goes dormant due to end of season, lack of water etc. Scions take easily enough though. Pupped like a biatch as I remember so it was a high maintenance stock. Used to get a scalpel and cut out all the areoles but then it used to pup from under ground lol. Had no success with micrografts at all. Extremely hard to exterminate

What opuntia sp were you looking at using ic? I've tried velvety try pear and cylindropuntia imbricata. The tree pear does NOT like humidity at all and both seemed to calus off the union as soon as they got stressed and went dormant for whatever reason, lack of water, temperature...

I was actually going to try a straight fine perlite medium for my next attempt, topped with sharp sand to try and keep the gnats out. I have a couple of other cuttings done like this that were having the calus chewed away by gnats, see what happens in a couple of weeks. I remember reading in a thread here that obtusi showed sensitivity to copper. So copperoxychloride would be a no go. Shame as it was prolly best suited to the task. Thread is HERE.

Method of pollination? No doubt one of the blanks you are going to fill in when you not so tired from plant sexing Excellent thread! Excellent pics!

I was just about to start a new thread on that very subject but thought I'd better go and see if there is an existing "Ebay" thread of some sort. Anyway the pic in this listing looks nothing like the super pedro I have in my collection. My cactus was aquired from a member on this forum so I'm fairly sure it is super pedro. Whats the history of super pedro anyway? Sorry for the hijack