Teotzlcoatl Posted May 7, 2008 (edited) Lophophora cacti are really easy to grow, much easier than say Aztekium, Ariocarpus, Turbinicarpus or Strombocactus... Trichocereus are in my opinion the easiest to grow botanical of any kind, anywhere! They are SUUUUUPER easy and there is no excuse not to grow them! They are also 100% legal in every area of the world! In most countries Lophophora is 100% pefectly legal, only the U.S.A. and Mexico (the only 2 areas in the world where it grows naturally) have laws agaist it. If you are worried about the legality of your Peyote cacti, please consider joining the Peyote Way Church of God. They offer procection for "bona-fide" religous users of Peyote and other entheogens. Cactus Soil- Sifted and Washed Coarse Sand Coarse Pumice Coarse Perlite Rich Dark Soil Organic Cactus Fertilizer For Trichocereus- Sifted and Washed Coarse Sand ~ 10% Coarse Pumice ~ 10% Coarse Perlite ~ 10% Rich Dark Soil ~ 50% Organic Cactus Fertilizer ~ 20% For Lophophora williamsii- Sifted and Washed Coarse Sand ~ 15% Coarse Pumice ~ 15% Coarse Perlite ~ 20% Rich Dark Soil ~ 45% Organic Cactus Fertilizer ~ 5% For other "Peyotes"- Sifted and Washed Coarse Sand ~ 15% Coarse Pumice ~ 30% Coarse Perlite ~ 20% Rich Dark Soil ~ 30% Organic Cactus Fertilizer ~ 5% (Amounts vary depending on species, try to create a soil make-up that mimics a specimens natural habitat.) Organic Cactus Fertilizer- Wood Ashes Composted Leafs Horse, Goat, Cow or Sheep Manure Gypsum (small amounts) Composted Tea and Coffee Bonemeal Ground Hoof and Horn (small amounts) Urine Earthworm Castings Bat Guano Lake or River Silt Crushed Quartz Egg Shells Fish meal (small amounts) Seaweed meal Crushed Shells Crushed Limestone (small amounts) Cactus Clippings- skin, spines, etc. Coco Coir Live Worms Instructions- Allow all the material to decompose for at least 3 months. Then bake. Notes- Study what trace elements and minerals exist in each species habitats and add them accordingly. List of Minerals and Trace Elements to add to Each Species- Aztekium and Turbinicarpus need gypsum. Cactus Tools- Thick Leather Gloves Medium sized Saw Knife Razor Blades(For Removing rot, grafting, etc.) Sifter (For Washing and Sifting Sand) Spoon or Small Shovel Small Brush(For transferring Pollen) Cacti Cultivation- Trichocereus- Place the cuttings upright in dry soil until they put out roots, then began watering as normal. Trichocereus grow well in clay, plastic or other types of containers, just make sure they have good drainage holes. "Peyotes"- Lophophora has been known to root well in Coco-coir. For "Peyote" I only use unglazed clay pots with LOTS of large drainage holes! Edited December 31, 2008 by Teotz' Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2b Posted May 7, 2008 All my cactus(lophs/Tric) are potted in plain old dirt from the garden, nothing fancy and they seem to love it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderIdeal Posted May 7, 2008 must be a nice loamy soil, i doubt many plants would enjoy being potted in 'plain old dirt' Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mu! Posted May 7, 2008 Plain old topsoil over here. My cacti thrive in it. I really dont see what the fuss is all about with all these soil recipes. I've seen some pretty naff lookin soil with bridgesii just flowin outa the stuff. They seriously dont give a fuck about soil! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garbage Posted May 7, 2008 This year in the frost free greenhouse i used the following for Peyotes. Arthur Bowers John Innes No2-3 parts Coarse sand-1 Part Silver sand-1 Part Coarse Grit-1 Part I mixed in a washing up bowl with a large pinch of bonemeal and some chalk rasped from a block. Top dressing was Coarse grit which was later removed in favour of Pettex Highland aquarium pebbles mixed with bird grit and bird sand. For Trichocereus in the cold greenhouse i used a mix of stuff from varous bags,Gereral purpose,John Innes No2+3 etc.. I mixed in some Aquatic pebbles,some silver sand some coarse grit and coarse sand and also some perlte and vermiculite. All the stuff knocking about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kadakuda Posted May 7, 2008 the big deal with mixes and tehse slow growing mexicans is they rot if kept moist. It *could* work for things liek ariocarpus and aztekium in "dirt" but i think that would be very rare. astros like mineral based soil arios/aztekiums like well drained dry soil and lophs are like those but much more hardy and forgiving! thats in my climate anyway. one problem with growing cacti and soil mixes is there are a lot of "BEST" mixes, depending where you live. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George Posted May 7, 2008 Garden bed's drains easier because of the soil saturating and spreading the moisture evenly. A pot has too small space for the same effect and has physical barriers/pot walls. The same type of soil will drain verry poorly in a pot, that is why we need to use other gimmicks to make up for it. Cacti might thrive in your topsoil but you have to watch for soggy pot's for too long a time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2b Posted May 7, 2008 My cactus has been growing in plain old garden variety soil for over five years now, no problems. Being water logged has more to with the person watering the plants than the medium they are growing in. Put simply if you need to rely on the medium to stop your plants being water logged , your missing something important about growing any plant .Terracotta is much better a regulating excess water than a plastic pot. Pot size is also important. But nothing is more important than knowing what your plant likes. Feel it, squeeze it, look at it and get to know it and it will tell you when it needs water. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted May 8, 2008 Your "Cactus" meaning? Lophophora? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted May 8, 2008 How many times can this one question be asked? UTSE Teotz'. Most people tend to use decent commercial 'premium' grade potting mix, some add/use course sharp sand or perlite for extra drainage. For most of the rare mexican cacti (the ones mentioned in your first post - lophs, etc), you need a very well drained mix with little nutritional value - this should be added via watered ferts. They also tend to like slightly acidic soil (if my memory is still in check), so a little lime can be added to mimic the mexican landscapes that most of the rarer species grow. For trichs, just use whatever soil you have available - as long as it is of reasonable quality and is watered/fertilised fairly regularly then trichs will thrive. Cacti can be fussy with soil - but the main thing to remember is to clump your species into like-soils (i.e. lophs, arios, azteks, etc like very well drained soil to avoid rot; trichs and a lot of other columnars are very easy going in comparison and dont mind as long as they get enough water and food). Once you have that basic idea, you will find that most cacti are actually rather easy going - especially as far as soil content is concerned. I can see what you are doing (attempting to make a step by step guide for everything cacti-related), and I appreciate it. But what I think everyone would prefer is if you were to utilise the search engine (here, google, other cacti forums, etc) and do the research/compilation yourself, then share with everyone. People are always more appreciative if you at least put a bit of effort in before asking a frequently asked (and answered) question. Dont mean to be a grumpy bugger - but everytime you create a thread it involves questions that have been answered previously. Hope you understand mate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted May 8, 2008 Sure no problem. I should have just searched and posted my ideas in many of the other threads about cactus soil, instead of creating a new one, sorry. Thanks for your input everybody! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mark80 Posted May 8, 2008 Ace, i think adding lime makes it basic. And the prefer basic soils to acidic one. Its the smae thing over and over again. He posts someone says utse he says sorry and it just keeps cycling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted May 8, 2008 (edited) Cacti are cool! Edited June 7, 2008 by Teotz' Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted June 7, 2008 I'm looking for an organic fungicide I can make myself... There's copper and sulfur... ....and some people say baking soda. Copper may be to harsh for cacti seedling... What is everybody's opinion on an organic fungicide for cacti seedlings? Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Plantsoma Posted June 7, 2008 (edited) EDIT: POTASH will increase the Ph of the soil. Australian soils are predominately acidic, i wouldn't add anything to cactii unless the soil was very acidic or alkaline. Lime will decrease the PH. Add the lime to your legumes Edited June 7, 2008 by Plantsoma Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted June 7, 2008 I'm from the U.S.A. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheFriendlyPlanter Posted June 7, 2008 (edited) Three additives that I can't do without now are: 1. Busted up terracotta (medium to fine) 2. Busted up brick (medium to fine) 3. Charcoal (medium to fine) All are cheap and easy to get. I add these to a good quality cacti mix at approx 50/50. I usually add approx 20% sifted compost to this to give it a bit of 'life'. I put the whole mix in a large pot out in the rain and sun to settle down for a week or three (I don't bother sterilising anything). comes up beautiful! -so good you could eat it. I've don't grow Lophs but the Trichos love it. Never had a single problem with it. Edited June 7, 2008 by Interdimensional monkeyman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
transDiMenTional Posted June 8, 2008 2b- I agree with the teracota pot idea. except- do u find the soil compacts in these pots? perhaps a grittier mix is needed? Ive heard diotamite can be a worthy addition to cacti mixes. Carchoal would be great i think also. For trichocereus ive found that searles premium potting mix is supurb. With more water-touchy spp i cut with river sand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheFriendlyPlanter Posted June 8, 2008 I only use terracotta pots now and think they are the best for a number of reasons. Compaction shouldn't be an issue if you add some potting-mix or compost to the mix which will keep it 'springy'. Don't over-pot either, if you gradually increase the size of the pot over time you shouldn't have any prob with compaction. I'd say Lophs would especially hate being over-potted (esp in winter) due to extra moisture retention. Searles is definitely the best I can get, plenty of grit. Some of those other types are so bad they may as well be called potting mix. My babies HATED that shyte (shudder). Charcoal is good stuff (straight outa the bonfire pit), it has a honeycomb structure which the roots love, it's gritty and sharp and it also acts as a pH buffer by absorbing xtra salts etc. A good idea is always to try a number of things and see what works and what doesn't. Then of course give all your secrets to me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted June 9, 2008 I always use clay pots too, never plastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted June 24, 2008 I was thinking about putting three different species of "Peyotes", "Lost Peyotes" or "False Peyotes" in a single pot together... Which ones would work best with Lophophora? I was thinking maybe Coryphantha or Mammillaria, maybe? Seems like Ariocarpus, Aztekium, Strombocactus and Turbinicarpus would need alot less water than the Lophophora... So what are some good cacti to use? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Teotzlcoatl Posted September 17, 2008 While I think I have a good soil make-up, I know next to nothing about soil PH, or how to check it... I think I remember cacti liking Arcidic soil, of about 6-7 PH? Is that correct? Ok, so... Base = the oppisite of Acid Acid = the oppisite of Base Alkaline (Basic?) = the oppisite of Arcidic Arcidic = the oppisite of Alkaline (Basic?) Right??? Please correct me if I'm wrong! I've heard tap-water can be very Alkaline and cause Lime (I think) build up on/in clay pots... So Lime is Alkaline right? So my real question is... what kind of organic substances can I add to my soil to make it more Arcidic? and whats the best way to check my soil PH? Is it even required? Or I am just worrying to much? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Free Man Posted September 18, 2008 Yes you worry too much!! Just do it! and learn from what YOU do!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garbage Posted September 18, 2008 Silver sand i have second thoughts about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spunwhirllin Posted September 18, 2008 Opinions galore,I've got a couple more. Plastic pots kick ass! They retain no miosture because they're not porous.I Share this post Link to post Share on other sites