Plant cutting powder?

[Jox]

Has anyone used Yates plant cutting powder?

I have a few different cactus cutting I want to harden off & went to by sulpher but could only find the sulpher powder used to put over your soil ( is this what I wanted? ).

I read that rooting powder works the same.

The Yates PCP contains Indoleacetic acid & Napthaleneacetic acid.

My questions

; would this work?

;would I use it the same as sulpher? Apply, leave a few weeks to calcify, then plant.

Any help/advise would be great.

Thanks

Cheers

jox

[Stillman]

I think it may work like sulphur ie in drying and sealing a cut with the added bonus of rooting hormone? Thats at a guess lol. I use a generic gardening suphur powder for my cuttings its yellow and stinky if that helps lol?

Once its dried ( a couple days) I usually add a rooting gell and then chuck them in some fast draining soil water them in and forget about it.

I think you can't go too wrong I hav a mate who cuts rams the piece into potting mix waters in and throws in the back of the green house he never seems to lose any. In my own experience drying off the end with a bit of sulphur works a treat the powder will probably be just as efficient.

[Barnard]

Hey Jox, I tried sulphur and rooting hormone (clonex i think it was called) on some of my cuts and tried nothing on the others. And guess what i could not tell the difference in anything. I had none rot and they both seem to dry out and root just as quick. From my learnings save your cash and buy another cutting Cheers.

[myco]

Sulphur powder is wat you want yes

It would be interesting to try rooting powder I've got some here I might have to give it a go

If anyone could give a better idea of wat exactly the sulphur is you need to buy I'd be interested to know

I got given a a bit by a mate before but it wasn't the same sulphur that's meant for gardening stuff

He makes a few fireworks and that was wat he had it there for I think he said something like the stuff he gave me

Isn't soluble in water and the gardening one is or vice versa I can't really remember he said it would work fine and it does

But I'll probly need to get some more soon so I'd be interested to know what exactly your meant to buy to

I don't usually tend to use it on trich cuttings more just on grafts it doesn't seem to be necessary at all for just a cutting I just cut em leave em for a few weeks

Sometimes I wrap em up in newspaper sometimes I just leave em sittin on the cupboard and they never seem to rot or anything

They heal up perfectly fine

I find there doesn't seem to be a problem with planting them fairly quickly either they just take longer to root but with that said

Its probably about the same time as if you hadn't planted them for them to start rooting anyway

I've got one small trich cutting that's been sitting there ontop of the soil for probly 2 months and it's looked perfectly fine and healthy and it's only just starting to throw out tiny roots now

Lately I've just been leaving em for like a week or 2 and that's it then planting em

[myco]

Yeh I think I agree with Barnard it's almost not even necessary but it is good to have some around for emergencies

For example I had a big splitting loph graft wich was beginning to rot I had to cut the split to like twice the size to try get all the rot out

And then cover it in sulphur and if I hadn't covered it in sulphur I highly doubt it would have survived

So I think it's good to have around for some things but for just trich cuttings and stuff it's completely unnecessary

Edited June 30, 2012 by myco

[Ethos]

 

jox I have that plant cutting powder and have used it on a small bit of TBM in the past, it seemed to help a little. It worked well on khat and psychotria cuts I've taken, particularly the psychotria.

 

 

 

I'll dip the end of a pach cut i took in the yates cutting powder and see how it compares to another cut that I wont treat with the cutting powder.

 

 

 

I have tomato dust which contains;

 

 

 

Sulfur 400 g/kg

 

 

 

Copper oxychloride 40 g/kg

 

 

Carbaryl 20 g/kg

is this ok to use?

if not i'll just stick to cutting in warmer months.

Edited; accidentally made the font tiny

Edited June 30, 2012 by Ethos

[Jox]

I have just applied the Yates plant cutting powder to some Euphorbia eritrea & Cereus hildmannianus monstrose cuttings, I'll let you all know how they go.

Like myco was asking, I to would like to know what kind of sulpher to use( brands etc ) as I am planning on do some grafts.

Always learning, thanks all.

jox

[Stillman]

I think mine is this one from memory http://www.searles.c...POWDERlabel.pdf

I just use it as a straight powder.

Edited June 30, 2012 by Stillman

[Sallubrious]

I never bother with anything like that and I've never lost one.

In winter I put the cut sections in full sun so they heal quickly. Then just plant them in river sand mixed with crusher dust for top half of the pot and I use the same mix with a bit compost in the bottom half of the pot.

The sulphur would be handy to have for grafts and emergencies though.

[slice]

I use a product called CLONEX, works very well.Its a gel and you can usually buy it in grow shops.

[theuserformallyknownasd00d]

My trichs usually set root sitting in the pantry haha! But I have a few to plant this season so ill give it a go 50/50

[Heretic]

I used to use Clonex and powders , but now dip the cuttings in honey instead . Seems to work and help prevent infections .

[2Deep2Handle]

 

I have tomato dust which contains;

 

 

 

Sulfur 400 g/kg

 

 

 

Copper oxychloride 40 g/kg

 

 

Carbaryl 20 g/kg

is this ok to use?

if not i'll just stick to cutting in warmer months.

 

Short answer- no its not

medium answer - its the carbaryl's fault

long answer - carbaryl is a nasty compound, especially to be used in tomato dust. I think only David Gray company still use it in tomato dust. Replace with one that has the copper and sulfur, and replaces the carbaryl with spinosad, an organic brilliant product that kills most bugs as well. (its the active in Yates 'success')

I think Yates tomato dust is now spinosad, the copper oxy and sulfur.

the copper is great for fungal infections, the sulfur fights bacterial infection, and the Spinosad kills bugs without damaging plants, and can still be smoked, eaten, insuffalated etc, without fear of evil contaminate. The copper and sulfur still have short withholding periods (especially for stone fruit), but are generally only 2-3 withholding limits. It may take slightly longer to be processed through the cambium of cacti though.

I use it extensively(the dust) to treat my solanaceae family, specifically chilli, Brugmansia and Datura.

The cutting hormone powders i only use on medium-hard wood cuttings, including hybrid tea roses.

Never seen a need for hormone on cacti cuts....

I cut em with a relatively clean device....leave the cut 5 -14 days(depending on humidity), and then into dry substrate and dont touch again for 3 weeks where infrequent watering cna begin.

if you must root in winter(i do all the time just cnt help myself), no wetness in substrate preferably coarse sand and little organic or LOSE CUTS

[totemgoat]

from what i've seen/heard cutting powder should never be used in place of cutting gel.

gels are more readily absorbed by hardwood cuttings because they are liquid based.

the powder will dry out the cut where you want new root growth, and because it is a powder it can be difficult to measure out just how much you're using, too much powder being worse than using no powder at all.

[Jox]

The powder has been on them for 3 days now seems to be working fine, I just dipped the cut ends into the powder & brushed off any excess.

@ totemgoat, thanks for the input mate, I was keen to use something that dried & seal the wound not so much getting absorbed by the wound.

It seems to be working just like sulphur powder & hopefully there might some added advantages, (quicker rooting time?)

Time will tell I guess.

I will pot them up in the next couple of weeks & see how they go.

Cheers

jox

Edited July 3, 2012 by Jox

[PhoenixSon]

honey, good on your toast and good on your cactus.

cheaper and equally effective in my experience.

clonex would be wasted on cactus...imho