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About Inyan

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    He who must not be named

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    Grafting, collecting pollen, and planting seed. Then grafting seedlings, collecting pollen, and planting seed. It is a vicious cycle.

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    Zone 8

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  1. I've seen some hybrids that have flowered in just over 2 years so not quite 3 years old and that is from seed grown on their own roots. So, I can definitely understand your desire to get in on some of those hybrids and start watching your own seedlings bloom rather than simply reading about others seedlings blooming. It is indeed exciting to dream of a purple Trichocereus dominant cultivar. I like that idea a lot. A diurnal blooming Trichocereus would be a bonus in my book as long as were dreaming.
  2. Here to bore you with a second cotyledon graft and an updated picture of the first cotyledon graft on the left.
  3. Here we go. Something like that.
  4. Absolutely love Zelly's hybrid seed. Looks like you are showing two very nice jewels from this collection. Thanks for sharing these solomon.
  5. I absolutely can not state this enough, but I love seeing seed grown specimens and my hat tips to all those who take the time to really get to know their cacti by growing them from seed. Thanks for sharing your pictures with us bardo.
  6. Good point bringing up geographical location. For me, I've had good luck letting my Trichocereus bridgessii, T. pachanoi, and T. peruvianus dry out for the weekend in Saint Augustine, Florida before putting them in the dry soil. The arrow marks the spot. As you can see, salt water pretty much surrounds the spot, but its not actually that humid. With that said, I've also done the same in NC and Belgium. All parameters have to be looked at and not just one item or two. You really have to get know your plants. For me, that means trying my best to do them in. Only then will I truly know how far they can be pushed. Please do take note that I listen the exact species I have done this with and don't add any species I have not listed to this list. Also note, I have not lived at that address in a good bit. It looks completely different than when I lived there.
  7. Tuesday update and comparison shot both front and back sides shown.
  8. I cold, wet, and open raw flesh is no better than warm, wet, and open raw flesh. Raw open flesh provides a portal of entry for pathogens and wetness in general will allow those pathogens to flourish. Allowing a cacti to scab over if you will for a weekend may not sound like much, but it will provide for a dry scabbed over area of some magnitude. Everything is to a degree of certainty. For instance, if you are certain you can place your cacti in a dry soil after it has scabbed over for such a short period of time this will be different than if you might forget and expose said soil to rain or another source of water. There is absolutely no reason a Trichocereus can not be placed in a dry soil once a few days have elapsed for that initial scab to form. Things that influence a scab or callous formation Humid or dry air? Fan/well circulating air or air that does not move? Old or new scab or callous? And old scab like an old callous will be less prone to open up due to exposure to moisture. If one applies a wet bandage to a wound it will likely become emaciated and slow the healing process down. The same thing applies with wet soil or wet humid air. It boils down to understanding why these things happen. How pathogens work. If you create an inhospitable environment by putting a layer of povidone-iodine on a newly closed wound/scab (animals) or sulfur on a newly cut cacti you are essentially creating an inhospitable environment for those pathogens. The less hospital your environment is to pathogens the better up to the point of not being hospitable to your cacti. Whether you choose to add a rooting hormone to your sulfur dust for your rooted end cuts is up to you. There are many available to help speed up the process. My take on this has always been that while it is not needed it does not hurt. It certainly can't hurt to speed up root development which in the end speeds up growth of the actual cacti. So my 3 cents, cut Cut Dip in sulfur and or rooting hormone Allow to callous for the weekend or longer at your discretion depending on whether you plan on planting in wet or dry soil Circulate the air around your cacti cut ends Dry air is best Sun is your friend provided your cacti have been grown in full sun Avoid rain When rooting, a warm environment is going to produce faster growing roots than a cold one. Thus, heat mats, green house, or any other reasonable method one might think of to warm the soil around the roots can help with rooting. Water rooting. You may simply wish to set up your cut end above a jar of water. As long as your cut end/callous remains a cm above the water the roots will grow out of your cacti and into your water slowly. Mark the water level and keep your cacti level and you should have hydroponic roots.
  9. Time to update this cotyledon/wedge graft. Picture taken 18 Sept 2017
  10. Just an update for those of you who received some seed from me. I don't get every pod to make it to maturity. As you can see, pods can abort at various stages of development with this cross. Admittedly, most pods abort before they get this big, but they all fail at the peduncle for some reason with this cross for me. So, in addition to often having less than 14 seeds in a pod from a successful cross.... many pods that look like they are going to be successful still abort after a bit of growth. Here you can see the immature seed
  11. Matagordamudskippe I like em phat and in this case she is phat and fat so the best of many worlds right now. I am deliberating right now as to whether to graft some more albino specimens or graft more variegates. The albinos of course don't stand a chance without being grafted, but may develop some variegation once they are grafted and so the choice is always a hard one. In the end it really doesn't matter though so long as I have a single variegate to act as a parent I can be assured that I will have a field of variegated seedlings in the years to come.
  12. Here is an update on one of my favorite seedlings at the moment. She is showing a nice soft lime green coloring next to her darker green sisters and has a slightly lighter patch of lime right up front. It will be interesting to see how this little Trichocereus hybrid develops. My big hope is that she has a nice red or lavender tinted flower. If she will keep that variegation in combination with a nice colorful flower I will indeed be on cloud nine. I have a feeling this one is going to shine for many years to come in my garden.
  13. After sunset, Saturday 16th of September 2017. This one just gets better and better. When I think that this one may have a colorful flower on top of being variegated I get even more excited. This Trichocereus is going to make some nice variegated babies one day.
  14. And yet another method that would work. I can say that as I've actually tried these different methods with this particular cacti not once, but many times. The best way to learn though is to actually try many different methods and see what works best for you as there are many opinions on what works.
  15. An old hybrid seedling bed of mine composed of some 10k Brugmansia seedlings. Many of those seedlings bloomed that first year from seed before the frost set in. Brugmansia_E-book.pdf