doxneed2c-me Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) I want to graft a 3-6cm tall (it is maybe 0.5cm in diameter at the widest point) columnar cactus to a Pereskiopsis spathula I am just wondering how to get the columnar cactus to stick. Edited February 10, 2014 by doxneed2c-me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mystical oyster Posted February 9, 2014 Im not a pro but im pretty sure you can just sit it on there without an aid to hold it in place, just sit it on the cut and keep the humidity up for the first week or so.. I haven't grafted to pere before, but i will be trying soon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
watertrade Posted February 9, 2014 I would say the 3-6cm columnar is too nig for the pereskiopsis to do it easily. You could graft the columnar onto and event bigger columnar. That would work. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mystical oyster Posted February 9, 2014 Woah just realised you said cm, thought it was mm, thats huge for a little pere.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted February 9, 2014 You could do an impale style graft. It's hard to say though without seeing the plant. Do you have any pictures? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) It is a Echinopsis peruviana I don't know what else I could graft it to to be honest. I do have one other type of cactus at my disposal but I would have to pick it up from a family member. It is one that looks as if it grows small leaves and it has lots of growths off it. It starts as a 3 sided cactus and becomes 4 sided. Excuse my lack of nomenclature I am quite new to this and having quite a great time but I am not overly knowledgeable. It may be the one the graft moon cacti to. Would this be a decent idea? I will have some Selenicereus grandiflorus but they will be coming as seed and it will be quite some time before they will be large enough to graft. It kind of looks like a Hylocereus but it has leaf like things which fall off. --EDIT-- I believe it is Euphorbia trigona which would be useless for this... Edited February 9, 2014 by doxneed2c-me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted February 10, 2014 Well the reason I ask for a picture is not to know what species, but to see the dimensions. If it's wide enough you could do an impale graft, but it's too big for a seedling graft as it is. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted February 10, 2014 I can get a picture I am just trying to give these little guys a boost to get them to a point where they actually look impressive. I thought it would be best to.play around with these ones until my lophs arrive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halcyon Daze Posted February 10, 2014 Go out and find a pricky pear. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) If the seedling is wide enough you could do an impale graft onto a pereskiopsis. Those have always worked great for me. How wide is it? Edited February 10, 2014 by hostilis 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) I should clarify I am talking about them being 3-6cm in height and perhaps 0.5cm in diameter at the widest part Edited February 10, 2014 by doxneed2c-me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philocacti Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) If the diameter is 0.5 cm then it's ok to graft on pereskiopsis. If you pereskiopsis are healthy and your seedlings too. Their juices will make the scion and stock stick together. No other outside source is needed. Of course you'll have to put the new grafts in high humidity for a few days and you should also follow the rest of the grafting procedure ;) Edited March 12, 2014 by Philocacti 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted February 10, 2014 I best be doing some reading then is the grafting book posted here good for beginners? I have had a friend show me with a loph and a san Pedro but it seems easier with bigger cacti. I also watched videos with similar procedures as he had used. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philocacti Posted February 10, 2014 IMO, this is best video covering the procedure of grafting on pereskiopsis, by watertrade 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted March 11, 2014 I did an emergency graft of a T. peruviana and it seems to have dried out completely but seems to have bonded to the pereskiopsis. Next time I will put the new graft in an area out of direct sun light. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted April 7, 2014 I am curious if people prefer the humidity chamber or the petroleum jelly method. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Myeloblast Posted April 7, 2014 With pereskiopsis, I have had great success with just a humidity chamber. Never tried petroleum jelly though, but it seems unnecessary to me. Really the only reason I've had peresk. grafts fail is that they were watered too recently and the scion is engulfed in a droplet of water that forms from the cut vascular tissue of the stock Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philocacti Posted April 7, 2014 What is the peroleum jelly method? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Myeloblast Posted April 7, 2014 It was mentioned in this thread (I think this is what dox was referring to anyways...please correct me if I'm wrong): http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=38093 Vasoline was used lightly around the edge of the graft to prevent moisture loss, and ideally the graft would spend less time in the humidity chamber during healing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Berengar Posted April 7, 2014 I personally prefer parafilm. It's very easy to work with, secures the scion perfectly, prevents the water droplet from the stock to dislodge it, doesn't require a humidity chamber, and simply breaks when the scion outgrows it. Clingfilm works in the similar fashion, but is much more difficult to work with, and it has to be removed manually at the precise time, which is not always easy to determine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 8, 2014 http://spinelove.wordpress.com/grafting-guide/ This is my method. I learned about the vaseline thing from a buddy who runs a nursery., Great help. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted April 29, 2014 (edited) Well I have yet to successfully graft but I seem to have a Superkabuto with Chlorosis. It is not white but it is extremely light green almost white it is not bright green or yellowish it truly looks like it has no pigment. It is about 4 weeks old so I think I will need to graft it soon. How long do I have to try and graft this little guy? Edited April 29, 2014 by doxneed2c-me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted May 3, 2014 I am curious if it is alright if I use a container which light does not pass as my humidity chamber. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doxneed2c-me Posted May 8, 2014 First graft failed. So long albino super kabuto Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted May 8, 2014 It happens. I accidentally smashed an albino T. boliviensis seedling graft. It had taken and everything but my clumsy hand landed on the scion. Lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
