hostilis Posted June 30, 2014 I was wondering how coryphantha, mammillaria, and similar cacti areole grafts would work. They seem to pup in-between the tubercles and I always wanted to know if I grafted one would it sprout a pup from the areole. Thanks for confirming that. Lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wert Posted June 30, 2014 no way, I cannot work with beer.... I did them..5 of them, wow what a rush... adrenaline man... as soon as I did the first two eulychnias I thought , I am doped up! did as planned also took some pictures and made a crappy - fun - arty poster on grafting. I took a preselected pup from Eulychnia and grafted each half of the pup on pachanois From the TBCM cuttings I had taken, I grafted each half of the first on relatively biggy bridgesiis, one is pretty biggy and strong clone, TIG and seeing how the duct tape was finishing I tried -and I think it went ok- to graft the whole other cutting I had taken which is of particularly good shape, on a smaller bridgesii seedling much easier to handle. Hope they all take! but seriously if only one of each takes I will be happy, god damn cheap duct tape! I also saw that a Coryphantha areole graft I had done ages ago sprouted, yeah! Using the good old duct tape method, I have to note.. 1. dont use cheap shit, buy good stuff like pro electricians use. cheap shit is shit, doesn't stick well isn't flexible enough.. 2. using bridgesii as a stock... ouch! I bled by hands, cut the spines carefully BEFORE starting doing the graft... I cant imaginge how hard it is to use other stock, seems like a decade since I did that graft on Pilosocereus azureus (still alive btw) If you run your leky tape down the stock rib you can the run a wrap of leky tape around the stock to prevent any mishaps. I always do tbis. Even with good quality trade tape. Hope that helpz some. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Yeah I am doing that I spined my fingers putting the all around tape because the fucker was unsticking as soon as I stuck it.. like a said, god damn cheap duct take.. it could be more hazardous when doing electric work with it. hostilis the shape alone of some tubercled cacti make them ideal for areole grafting... this is a a slow coryphantha that took some year to pup, and it didn't pup from the areole, itself (its only an areole anywayz) , it bursts through the little flesh there is . I also did two leuchtenbergia ones couple years back.. both seemed to have taken.. one pupped some months afterwards (exactly from the areole) , the other, well the other I still keep, the scion seems alive but hasn't yet pupped ?!?? (maybe its dead) so yeah other reports say they can pup in a month, they can pup in 1 year, and maybe more... I should note I didn't take care of this pot which has 4 stocks in it , so it might sprout earlier with proper care... this reminds me: my ferobergia, after several adventures seems to be doing fine, should I be doing one on it? Edited June 30, 2014 by mutant 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) If it worked with leuchtenbergia i would immagine ferobergia would work too. I'd try it, but I'll graft anything. Edited June 30, 2014 by hostilis 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
naja naja Posted July 1, 2014 Pantyhose, stocking, tights even. Cut them into strips. Hold either side pull down evenly on either side of graft and hook into spines. The spines hold the stocking tight. The elasticity in the stocking keeps tension on the graft even if it shrinks or the stock does. The sheer stockings allow light and air exchange through to the scion below. Place in humid area for a week, move to less humid area for a week and remove. Done. I remove a lot of my stockings after just 10 days. And I expect 100% take rate when working with healthy stock and scion. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted July 1, 2014 oh the humidity dome, I never do it, anymore, just put in a shade-part shade. I think if the graft is done right, no great need from humidity dome exists, but that's just me .. also IME 4-7 days is enough to see if it took or not, and if it has failed it shows at 2-4 days usually. I was even thinking about taking pressure of the eulychnia that was grafted upside down and it had a wet callous on top, where pressure was put, in less days, like tomorrow (2.5-3 days) . Because I was afraid the piece of cloth I use under the duct tape with stick to the callous.. well I might have to try the stalkings, sounds easy when using spiny stock. Nobody answered on the bridgesii crest... can you do grafts on pieces with no areole or its like penis in that ? (Needs areole) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
naja naja Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) I think a crest with no areoles would be fine. It still has a growing tip which can throw out more areoles at any time. And yes, no humidity dome, just a shady humid place is where I put mine too. Just avoid dry, windy places, etc I find that if pressure is taken off too early they can lift occasionally. They still survive, but don't look as appealing and leave a gap for fungal infections to hide. But yeah, with the stocking. Time is no issue. The pressure is very evenly distributed also. Edited July 1, 2014 by naja naja 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
modern.shaman Posted July 2, 2014 I've sown a lot of seeds this year and hope I can also get a crested aztekium and if I'm really lucky a variegated crested aztekium 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
upside Posted July 2, 2014 I agree stockings are the better choice for holding scion down. I tried elastic bands,, which is ok for beginners, but a bit fiddly for myself. Glad wrap or cling film,, this was successful but caused sweating and orange discoloration which was a bit worrying, yet the grafts took to the stock and are doing well. Stockings I found great, easy to evenly distribute pressure on the scion, breathable, plus the advantage of hooking onto the spines. If I use a shorter spine stock then some lacky bands add extra hold. I've left the stockings on between 7-14 days, may be excessive but it's just to be sure it has a great hold,, do many peeps use Myrtillocactus Geometrizans as stock,, I've found these to take really quick and plump up quite quickly also. But I think may have a tendency to rot easily? I've lost a cupl from over watering unfortunately. One or two beers is enough to steady my hand and nerves then I just go for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmattz0r Posted July 3, 2014 Myrtillo are great grafting stock. Some people swear by certain stock because it works well for them in their specific climate so I always encourage people to try different ones. I know some people who prefer Stenocereus or Harrisia. I recently started experimenting with using small amounts of super glue to help bind small seedlings to pereskiopsis while they heal. Anyone have experience using this technique and have any tips or any reason why I should avoid using it? I usually just use the juice from a pereskiopsis leaf as glue but have had a few grafts get knocked off before they are fully attached recently so decided to try this. Here is a picture of a T. Peruvianus I grafted last summer, still attached to the same pereskiopsis. It has lost all its leaves and I have to prop this graft up against another pot to keep it upright. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zed240 Posted July 3, 2014 I've used a stocking for two grafts a few months ago, one was a loph grafted to Pachanoi and it worked great. I'll add a pic tonight of how it's going now, it's pupped and also the main head has grown. I grafted it because it had started to look a bit grey and scaly, not sure why, couldn't locate any pests... The cool part was because I left the root system of the scion in the pot when I cut it and didn't disturb it, it pupped out a new loph head shortly after which has grown well too. So I'll probably graft that little one this spring and leave the root base in the pot again, see if it keeps pupping each time I graft a head. The other was an Eileen pup grafted to Spach and it did take but not well and not how I intended it to. It didn't take at the central vascular tissue, it just so happens that it must have taken where two areoles were close enough. So it's lifted off but it has been growing very slowly for the last 3 or 4 months. If you look carefully you can see the lighter green where it's been growing. I used the stocking method left on for 2 weeks with this one as well. I'm just leaving it the way it is until this spring when I'll try and re-graft it or I might cut up the Eileen pup to try out some areole grafts. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted July 3, 2014 Grafted a few things. One little variegated Astrophytum ornatum seedling, a TPM x N1 crest and a bunch of other seedlings which I will not have pictured here. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmattz0r Posted July 3, 2014 That crest is sexy.. Had the stock of my jourd graft pup so I grafted a psycho0 X TPM to it, growing nicely 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dreamwalker. Posted July 3, 2014 so it is ok when they (scion) darkens at base like that?...........a lot of mine are doing the same , but growing nicely, I guess its a winter thing..............? That crest is sexy.. Had the stock of my jourd graft pup so I grafted a psycho0 X TPM to it, growing nicely Grafted a few things. One little variegated Astrophytum ornatum seedling, a TPM x N1 crest and a bunch of other seedlings which I will not have pictured here. P7020299.JPG P7020300.JPG P7010298.JPG P7010300.JPG what's the white powder you have dusted around the joint? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted July 3, 2014 It's sulfur powder to prevent any infection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmattz0r Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) In my experience, scions turn dark from stress of light and no longer having a root system. They usually grow right out of it but the bottoms will stay dark, it's nothing to be concerned about. Edited July 3, 2014 by djmattz0r 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zed240 Posted July 4, 2014 Hey Hostilis, do you use glue or something else around where the stock and scion join on those two grafts you pictured a couple of posts above? (the crest and the astrophytum)? Here's a couple of updated pics from last night of the stocking Loph graft and the rootstock of the loph I left in the post. The graft was done 6months 2 days ago. The pup on the scions rootstock is doing pretty well for only 6 months! You can see the grafted one is starting to grow out of the scale, hopefully it keeps looking nice as it grows from here on out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted July 4, 2014 I put vaseline around the scion/stock junction to prevent moisture loss. I live in an extremely dry climate so stuff dries out here like crazy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted July 4, 2014 So, I'm very excited to say, I have a possible variegated Lophophora alberto-vojtechii seedling. There was one that had my interest for a while because it didn't darken up at all after a couple months of growing. It also never really started taking off with growth like the rest of them did. I took a closer look today and realized that it's probably a variegate, so, I grafted it. Here it is in the pot before grafting Here it is after being grafted. This is a Sulcorebutia rauschii seedling. I tried out a new soil mix for my peres with this one and it seems to be doing amazing. It is only 2 months old and was grafted when it was the size of a tiny pebble. The soil mix is almost pure pumice with some coco fibers, gravel, and worm castings/time release ferts. It seems to really like it. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) ^^^^^^ I did a couple sulcorebutias graftings, rauschii as well, but I found they had a tendency to catch scale.. a couple of them also had nsty cases of mites... I think it was the year of the mite here... (stock=selinicereus, trichocereus) Maybe when grafted their skin becomes to sensitive or maybe I was unlucky or something... **** I regrafted one TBCM on bridgesii again yesterday or the day before, as there was no union, seems nicer now. I took pressures off the rest 4 of them at about 3.5 days from grafting, not even fulfilled my standards of 4 days! they seem like they have taken, I am very happy!! Edited July 4, 2014 by mutant 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dreamwalker. Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) My 1st successful dragonfruit rootstock craft...3rd try...new growth to new growth seemed the soloution...cereus hybrid scion. Sorry camera does not like close ups, a bit blurrrrr. This is a miniature growing cylindrical opuntia (no idea of its id see following pick, appreciate any guesses, grows 100mm 4" high & ~300mm 1' long..red flw?...breaks really easy ..just touch it & bits fall off...which I throw into failed pots...the new sprouts are so vigorous I couldn't resist giving it a try) Cereus hybrid scion. totally failed trich hybrids I tried to save (rotted roots)...my 1st cacti grafting attempt 8 mnths ago...cut the opuntias top off, but I suspect they would have done better on new growth...I have since tried this opuntia with new growth/shoots but its not keen on accepting scions. Nasty prickly bastard good for boundary fences..& its melon/banana low seed fruit. some successful trich hybrid grafts...same batch as above...crap pic Edited July 15, 2014 by Dreamwalker 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woof woof woof Posted July 15, 2014 Lophophora crest on Stenocereus image.jpg Back view image.jpg Sides image.jpg image.jpg Is that stenocereus griseus rootstock? If yes,... much better heat and drought tolerance than trichs fo sho! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted July 15, 2014 dreamwalker I think that round one is austrocylindropuntia. I had done a graft on it... also some opuntias are not considered so good for grafting and yeah fresh growth on fresh growth is the best bet! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted July 15, 2014 So it looks like i was just crying wolf with my suspected variegated alberto. Lol, not a variegated alberto, just a very unhealthy one (that turned to mush a few days after grafting) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted July 15, 2014 dont feel bad, almost everyone here has done this at least once! cacti enthousiasm peaks dangerously sometimes! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
