nitrogen Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I'll follow that theme - here's a grafted TPM x SS02 v. "Aldous".. That's a crested bridgesii below it, grafted to the same pachanoi 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Lophophora crest on Stenocereus Back viewSides 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Did 3 TBM crest grafts and they all took 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmattz0r Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) This is a chunk of T. Pachanoi cv Dave Turner that was removed because of rot but then I saved a piece and decided to chuck it on a pereskiopsis with an impale graft.It didn't do much for quite a while then finally became hydrated again, I then applied some BAP to some aeroles (too many I realize now, was wreckless with this stuff at first) and caused it to stall a bit... So it finally decided to do something and shot out these gnarly pups, interested to see what they end up looking like. Edited May 21, 2014 by djmattz0r 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 1st time a see a big chunck of cactus like this one grafted to pereskiopsis 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upside Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Some of my first attempts, pretty happy with success rate. :-) 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myeloblast Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Update on Godzilla x GodzillaAnother plant from different source:Normal fissuratus for comparisonGodzilla x lloydii, I like this plant a lot, the texture is very cool A. retusus v. pectinatusA. retusus v. furfuraceusTwo plants of A. retusus v. confusus x A. fissuratus v. lloydii from SS seed: 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hostilis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 What kind of light do you have yours under? Mine burn so easily even when I put them like 5 feet away from my T5 lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myeloblast Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) They're under 4x 4ft T8 lights, anywhere from 1/2" to 2 inches away. When you say burn, do you mean turn red or actually burn and callous? I let them be as red as they want when grafted to peresk, and they will grow through it. After a month or so they seem to adjust well and really take off.Edit: here's a look at the top shelf of my prop. box Edited May 12, 2014 by Myeloblast 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hostilis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Cool. I'll have to try that. Mine just turn extremely red. Mine are pretty old and they still just stay really red and grow super slow. I moved them away from the light and they started turning green and growing a little faster. Still trying to figure it out. I'm switching to hycocereus and selenicereus now. I'll try acclamizing them early on to bright light. Edited May 12, 2014 by hostilis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhead Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Hostilis, about 6 months ago I started covering my freshly done grafts with a ~1in square of paper towel. I use a technique similar to cling wrap so I don't worry much about knocking the scion off. I remove the plastic after 5-7 days, and recover the graft. Typically, I'll pre shape the towel a bit by pulling over the tip of my thumb. Though, if I am worried about the scion, I will spread it out more and use the pereskiopsis leaves for support. Lately, I have been placing a dab of chapstick on opposite sides and about a 1/2 inch from the top of the stock; and forming a loop over the scion. Thanks I have 2-ply paper towels and when the scion starts to show growth, I usually split it and cover the scion with only a single layer. I keep them covered until I feel they can handle it (usually 3 weeks from graft). I have noticed a lot less red, and think they grow a little faster. Before, they would take about a week or two to recover before taking off. Though some seem to go red no matter what (i've covered a few with foil)I started doing this because I grow a lot of stock close together, and of course each one doesn't reach optimal height at the same time. I have also been grafting several different species. Now, I don't have to worry about limiting other grafts, or the stock itself which can handle much more light. My light is 8x23w t5 (2ft bulb) and my grow cabinet is cramped, so I don't really have the luxury of moving plants or lights around.Edit: These are old pictures, and I'm working on moving them all into the sun Edited May 12, 2014 by hookahhead 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hostilis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Good idea HH. My issue is purely with ariocarpus. My other grafts do pretty well. I'll see if the paper towel thing helps at all when they first start growing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myeloblast Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I like the idea hh, wish I had time to do that. The name of the game for me is simplicity and low maintenance. Barely have time to take care of what I've got as it is 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hostilis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 The name of the game for me is simplicity and low maintenance. Barely have time to take care of what I've got as it isThat's why I only grow cacti. Lol. Any other plants die in my care due to neglect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhead Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 @Myeloblast, it would add an extra 30 sec to toss a piece of paper towel on top of them ;)@Hostilis, arios are one of the species that seems to turn BRIGHT red no matter what (at least for me). Though it's a bit different than the purple/red sunburn look.The foil from Hershey kisses, or those mini Reese's cup also make convenient coverings 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 A few days ago I grafted 9 lophophora seedlings to these pereskiopsis sharing a pot + 1 other seedling to a hylocereus in the same pot as wellAfter 2 days in the shade today I introduced them to the sun. 2 didn't take and died the rest are doing ok ;) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 T. pasacana got it as a seed from koehres 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berengar Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Looks wicked, how old is it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I really can remember but it's in the 2 year range..... It's been grafted to pereskiopsis when it was 2 weeks old ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berengar Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Wow, that's quite a boost compared to an own-root 2 year old specimen! And people usually say it's not worth grafting them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philocacti Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 It is. I have another 1 or 2 on their own roots and they're like from 4-6 cm tall. However, they were neglectedWhat's really slow IME is T. terscheckii, I grafted one like 6 years ago and it's very short but wide. I can post a pic tomorrow if you're interested ;) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berengar Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I'd love to see it!So, terscheckii is slower than pasacana? I always thought they are about the same, if anything that pasacana grows slower.I grafted a couple T. terscheckii onto relatively large pereskiopsis a few weeks ago, I'm now really interested to see if they are as slow as people say.On the other hand, my 3 month old T. chiloensis graft now looks like a golf ball balanced on a toothpick! Seems that most of these larger Trichocereus first grow fat before going columnar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmattz0r Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Noticed this little flower bud forming today, I believe it will be the first flower I have seen from this graft as it was originally a root rot rescue and has finally started taking off after being re-potted. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmattz0r Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I definitely used too much BAP when I first got it, it appears some of the pups have started to pup too. Not sure what will happen with theseHere's another couple of pictures of that fat impale graft. I was thinking about letting the biggest pup get a little bigger then trying to graft it on to a PC pedroTBM clone-A chunk I grafted sideways, really hope this one took. It already has a spider protecting it And a picture of the variegated button I saved from a rotting stock. I put it on to one of my bigger stocks so used tooth picks to get the rubber band to work. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hookahhead Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Have you considered using nylons/pantyhose instead? I've haven't used it myself yet, but others have suggested it. Seems like it would be easier to stick to a few spines. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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