Nemisty Posted March 3, 2014 Been pretty low key with the grafts this summer. Heres a couple anyways... Pantyhose are definitely the way to go with tricho rootstock grafts Roseii #2 x fields pach And some kinda NZ terscheckii hybrid thing 14 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) L. alberto vojtechii loc. zacatecas A. asterias (from mixed seed) A. myriostigma (onzuka snow? from mixed seed) Edited March 8, 2014 by hostilis 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Myeloblast Posted April 1, 2014 Inversion graft of the bottom half of the single Ariocarpus Godzilla x Godzilla seedling I got to germinate...after many months of nothing it has finally burst into growth and is pupping like crazy 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mushroomman Posted April 1, 2014 That's awesome man, how tall was it when you grafted it ? I got 11/20 Godzilla seeds germinate I sowed about 2weeks ago. Will graft a couple soon do you have a pic of it when you first grafted? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Myeloblast Posted April 1, 2014 It was grafted maybe a week after germination, so very tiny. I don't think I took any pics at the time of grafting, but I'll take a look through my photos later. I wasn't expecting much out of this graft at the time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) can u spot the differences between caespitosa and non caespitosa? Edited April 14, 2014 by mutant 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dreamwalker. Posted April 18, 2014 (edited) I'm hooked on grafting.........all of the pics below are seedlings grafted on trich or pere. or cereus..............the grafts are now 10 to 20 times the size as the seedlings in the pots or propagator (many of which are struggling) Selenicereus setaceus Hylocereus setaceus ´Medioc. Hassleri´ .... Pachycereus web. this seedling became 2 once grafted Selenicereus sp Stenocereus thurberi The Organ Pipe Cactus pitaya dulce, Spanish for "sweet pitaya" or sweet Selenicereus sp hybrid cereus on old cereus log.....this one is blowing up like a balloon............can almost see it grow day by day............. Edited February 24, 2015 by Dreamwalker. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nemisty Posted April 18, 2014 Awesome to see all that peres I sent you being well utilised dreamwalker! epic stuff dude Tricho in the background looks like a very nice pachanoid of some kind 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dreamwalker. Posted April 18, 2014 peres have been awesome..................really nice plant's to graft with..........and the cut tops soon shoot roots and grow..........easy to propagate.................thanks for those...................... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 18, 2014 Peres are nice, but I'm thinking of switching to hyclocereus and selenicereus. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Myeloblast Posted April 18, 2014 Why switch, use all 3 they all are useful in different ways 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 18, 2014 I'm definitely going to keep using peres, but I'm going to switch most of my new grafts over to these others. Peres are nice. I have so many of them though, lol. I'm over run with pereskiopsis. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dreamwalker. Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) I'm still trying for a successful dragon fruit root stock graft.................I think cutting the end off a vigorously growing tip on a pre rooted cutting is the best bet.......but the few hylo's rootstock grafts, I tried so far have failed to take................placing dragon fruit tips on long trich stems (to speed up fruiting and give the dragon support) seems to work fine. Edited April 19, 2014 by Dreamwalker Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 19, 2014 I heard the secret is to wait until it aborts a section and has a new pup, and then when the pup is very young and only about like 1cm you cut that and graft to it. It will be very soft at that point, they get woody fast though. I have yet to try one. Selenicereus grandiflorus is supposed to be really good as well. I have some on it's way from SS and I got a few other selenicereus species that just started growing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Berengar Posted April 19, 2014 Hylocereus are very difficult to work with. They have tiny vascular rings, and no sticky sap which would hold the scion. So parafilm or clingfilm is mandatory for a succesfully bond, but it's shape makes it annoying and hard to apply. They are good for somewhat older scions tough, when the skin gets harder, super glue can be used successfully. Be sure to remove all areoles on the Hylocereus stock as it continues to pup like mad after grafting. Selenicereus is probably my favorite stock for seedlings of slow growing species, but it does tend to split if over fertilized/watered. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Señor Corrochio Posted April 20, 2014 For grafting seedlings I cut the tip of a few days old pup, wait a day or two then cut again for the graft. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 20, 2014 For grafting seedlings I cut the tip of a few days old pup, wait a day or two then cut again for the graft. Why do you wait a few days after cutting to do the graft? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Berengar Posted April 20, 2014 The pup starts to thicken, and the ribs 'fill up'. Makes it easier to graft to. When I want to use a young piece of Hylocereus for grafting, I first remove the tip and all the areoles, then root it, and leave it for several weeks to fatten up. That way you get much larger surface to position your scion, and the vascular conections engorge and start pushing a lot of growth very soon after grafting. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Señor Corrochio Posted April 20, 2014 Why do you wait a few days after cutting to do the graft? The first cut sometimes shrivels a bit; the core moves downwards and the skin at the top curls inwards. The second cut, just slightly under the first cut will stay more firm. The other reason is that the first cut is generally juicier which would push off the scion. Same goes with peres and opuntia grafts. If you were to use wraps and pins to push down the scions I guess this might not be a big deal, but I never use anything like that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 20, 2014 Ah I see. I use vaseline around the seam on the graft and on the wound after I put the scion on to stop that on pereskiopsis. I'll probably try that and your method with hyclocereus when mine are fit to graft to. Thanks for the recommendation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Berengar Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Just a couple random grafts. A three branched Myrtillocactus with an Ariocarpus on each branch, first two are A. lloydii and A. fissuratus, the third one is still waiting for a A. hintonii to germinate. T. chiloensis var. zizkaanus 15-headed AstroPere tree. Some random grafts on Selenicereus and Hylocereus stock Edited April 25, 2014 by Tangich 12 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hostilis Posted April 26, 2014 Some more pictures. I will have a lot more grafted species here in a few months, but here's a sneak peak at the work i've been doing. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philocacti Posted May 1, 2014 Lophophora var jourdania caestiposae pup 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmattz0r Posted May 1, 2014 Took a piece of TPM X SS02 Terrence and cut it in half vertically then grafted each slice to a large PC pedro, hoping the increased number of aeroles will help with lots of pupping Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
