apothecary Posted July 23, 2007 Panda film is mylar! I guess I should've clarified it is coloured mylar, but I figured the name would give it away Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted July 23, 2007 update for anyone making a similar setup. have had the lid slightly off and put a hole in the side. still warm in there but not steaming up anymore. dropped from an average of 35 to around 25 but thats all good IMHO. in regards to reflective surfaces been some good info shared in this thread, many thanks. that said im just gonna leave it as is for now. the white foam is pretty reflective. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaBReT00tH Posted July 25, 2007 anyone know what wattage energy saving globes go up to? I've only really seen the highest at about 20 watts. Are the energy saving globes available with screw in fluro bulbs too, and in cool white? Was ideally looking for a Cool white energy saving screw-in fluro bulb which uses 60 watts and would produce an output of about 100-120watts (I think that's right). The problem with Adelaide is that many of the shops here carry very low stock and thus low variety. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted July 25, 2007 if your worried about cooler night temps then run the lights at night and off during the warmer day, I do it that way because its too hot here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaBReT00tH Posted July 25, 2007 (edited) Just got a nice 20W giving 100W cool white fluro. Apparently this is the max wattage for this type at the moment. Went to K-mart with a tape measure and got a nice short tub, gonna bluetack white cardboard all around it tomorrow. I'm thinking of placing plastic take away container lids underneath the little pots so when I spray them the water doesn't affect the reptile heatmat underneath. Also going to put white cardboard on the inside of the top lid too but have it 90-95% on, allowing air ventilation in the tub whilst still helping generate heat with the other parts of the lid on. As my light is now cool white light I've taken the baking tray paper off the top of my loph seedlings, in the hope this cool white light will be enable them to grow easier under this cool direct light, and filtered light won't be needed as the tub will be without the harsh burning factor of the previous yellow light. Edited July 25, 2007 by SaBReT00tH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted July 26, 2007 cacti seeds are starting to germinate already. pretty stoked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KlUe Posted July 26, 2007 Panda Film = Mylar = incorrectMylar is a shiney silver film similar to auto-tinting film and Panda Film is the one side black, one side white type of plastic sheet I hear that mirrors are the worst.. I've also heard mylar is quite difficult to find - Only place i've seen it is the local hydro shop who said its not worth the price when compared to panda film. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Conan Troutman Posted July 26, 2007 I've also heard mylar is quite difficult to find - Only place i've seen it is the local hydro shop who said its not worth the price when compared to panda film. Can of flat white paint is even cheaper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KlUe Posted July 26, 2007 Can of flat white paint is even cheaper Haha true... thats actually what I used for my 400w wardrobe setup ;) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
apothecary Posted July 27, 2007 Just got a nice 20W giving 100W cool white fluro. It's only equivalent to 100W of incandescent light. 20W of fluorescent is 20W (or less without a topside reflector). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shruman Posted July 27, 2007 "It's only equivalent to 100W of incandescent light." Not realy they're different spectrums. Any amount of watts of incadescent is useless. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rahli Posted August 5, 2007 I have constructed a small seed raising light set up recently and accidently purchased an incandecent tube light. I was pretty pissed until i found a site on growing under lights that said that the red in incandecent lights can be used to suppliment the blue yellow and green light produced by fluros. So I went and got a small 10w fluro and set them up at different heights. I carefuly monitor the temp as icandecents produce alot of infrared (heat) light which is supposed to be good in small amounts. Currently they run at a maximum of 30.5 degrees at the height of the seed containers. I started running them during the day to utilise the fluctuation in day night temps to stimulate germination then changed them to night setting so they don't run to hot. I guess i'll see how it all works out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted August 5, 2007 got a link for that growing under lights website rahli? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rahli Posted August 5, 2007 I have this link - http://www-unix.oit.umass.edu/~psoil120/manual/lab11.html I did originally find another better one but it has elluded me since. This one is ok though. Hope it is of some help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaBReT00tH Posted August 6, 2007 I thougth people were recommending to get a cool white fluro before? Now they're saying they're ineffective for growing?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted August 6, 2007 where was that said? Cool whites are the go as they are cheap. We recently popped a aquarium light into the setup and its much bluer, will see what results it has. As ive said before a mature loph under a cool white flowered at least once a week, aint no red required for flowering. Cacti seem to be moon plants so i think its the amount of blue light that makes them flower. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rahli Posted August 6, 2007 In this article on growing Ariocarpus incandesents were used without fluros http://www.living-rocks.com/laras.htm I'm also growing some Ariocarpus fissuratus so I guess its worth a try using both. Only down fall so far is the extra energy consumption. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted August 6, 2007 hmm doesnt say not to use fluoro. Id say he is just using them for the heat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaBReT00tH Posted August 6, 2007 (edited) I've got 2 x 18 watts fluros giving 36 watts of cool white light plus my 25w giving 100watts, altogether totalling 136watts (looking very nice and bright inside), running 16 hours, and heatmat on 24/7. I'm not germinating so don't see the point in lowering temps too much by turning it off at night, also cause they're near a windowsill this would makeup for the extra cold. I'm thinking leaving the heatmat on all night will aid in evaporation after misting the seedlings, also reducing any risk of rot which would generally otherwise happen with the temp drops and water vapoour still on the seedling flesh. Temps still averaging about 23/24 degrees, pereskiopsis's immediately showing signs of growth, with the lophs skin also appearing a little more 'shiny' so to speak (a look I've found characteristic of when they're growing in summer time). Hoodia seedlings several cm tall are definitely showing signs of new tip growth, with one even impressing me by beginning a new branch when it's only a few cm high!!! Few weeks ago I just harvested some epithelantha micromeris seeds from a mature plant of mine and am going to experiment with Epilethantha and Echinopsis Grusonii germination and subsequently grafting them to pereskiopsis to create an absurdity of grafted monster button cacti Edited August 6, 2007 by SaBReT00tH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
apothecary Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) I've got 2 x 18 watts fluros giving 36 watts of cool white light plus my 25w giving 100watts, altogether totalling 136watts (looking very nice and bright inside) Your total wattage is only 36 + 25. The equivalency is only equivalency in terms of lumens compared to incandescence. I'm not germinating so don't see the point in lowering temps too much by turning it off at night, also cause they're near a windowsill this would makeup for the extra cold. I'm thinking leaving the heatmat on all night will aid in evaporation after misting the seedlings, also reducing any risk of rot which would generally otherwise happen with the temp drops and water vapoour still on the seedling flesh. Two things wrong here, one is that seeds will germinate better with fluctuating night temps and they require humidity so increased evaporation is not useful at all. You can mist with chlorinated water or copper to stop fungal growth. Edited August 7, 2007 by apothecary Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted August 7, 2007 i thought hot days, cold nights were good for seedlings too. anyone have any references for or against? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted August 7, 2007 my temps are hot and really dont drop below 25 and i get fine germination when fungal probs arnt present. If anything the cold would slow fungal spreading, possibly even stopping it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaBReT00tH Posted August 8, 2007 thanks for the feedback Apocethary. Might try germinating naturally in summer since the setup isn't right for the seedlings at the moment. I guess tap water would have more chlorination and be more effective in preventing fungus than rain water? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites