spunwhirllin

A few pics

Personally ,I base my assumptions on familiarity and intuition,nothing concrete.Without flowering plants it's really hard to nail anything down,even with flowers there would still be contention among some.Guesses are better than just throwing your hands up in disgust though

A few recently developed phyllodes are yellowing.I know your australian soil composition is different than the standard,if thats relevent. What is a good remedy for an iron deficiency for your australian plants? Open to any advice from the australian masters. Much appreciated my friends.

Oh man,I just received a cut of this plant today,it is damn fat! A very lovely plant,not sure about it being macrogonus now that I physically see it.However I'd say too many radials for a peruvianus,though all of this species determination through morphology is just speculation.

I'd go with macrogonus on the pictured plant,but thats just an educated opinion.

Courtesy of wiki,just look it up . Etiolation occurs when plants are grown in either partial or complete absence of light, and is characterized by long, weak stems; smaller, sparser leaves due to longer internodes; and a pale yellow color (chlorosis). This is a mechanism to increase the likeliness that a plant will reach a light source, often from under leaf litter or underneath shade from competing plants. The growing tips are strongly attracted to light and will elongate towards it.

Opinions galore,I've got a couple more. Plastic pots kick ass! They retain no miosture because they're not porous.If you formulate your soil correctly for your climate you can't lose.I've went plastic pots with everything,sure they don't breathe like terra cotta,but with appropriate soil there shouldn't be a problem. I use 2 parts pumice to 1 part potting soil for my lophs,and they grow like mad,atleast for the last few seasons.Its a continuous never ending interactive experiment. Teotz,your plants will speak to you,if you listen.

Opinions galore,I've got a couple more. Plastic pots kick ass! They retain no miosture because they're not porous.I

Etiolation

Cactus are designed to go long periods without water. I've been placing my cacti into six to eight months of dormancy annually for seven seasons now.They will be fine.I do this for multiple reasons,but primarily I do it to maintain health and aesthetics.Secondly, I do it because I can't leave them exposed to the winter elements.

Thats fahrenhiet. If you want to place your cacti into hibernation and make sure they survive sub-freezing temps then one would be wise to keep the soil absolutely dry.They can handle it.

I put all my cacti into dormancy at this time of the year.It takes a good month for the soil to become bone dry and for them to stop growing.I keep them in an un-heated greenhouse from early fall to late spring ,which is a good 6 to 7 months.I have mostly Trichs and lophs in there at all stages,seedlings to mature plants.Temps sometimes dip into the teens for days at a time,and I rarely have losses.They are in full winter sun,which seems to keep them warm enough at night due to radiant heat thats absorbed throughout the day,and released at night by the black pots.Water condensation seems to be the only problem,I guess this just comes from the breathing of the plants.A simple fan circulating the air for a day a month seems to solve the problem. If you keep the soil dry,and the plants out of the frost they will survive just about any tempeture,within reason anyway. Once put into dormancy the plants will not grow.All the cacti stop growing completely until the sun is high in the sky and the days become longer.

It seems you said it a few times yourself,myth? There are countless variables that influence the morphology of the Trichs,find a blue one and declare it the mythical blue peruvianus.That's about as close as you'll get.

If you're refering to my pic,they're not diseased.Thats just the manner in which they grow.The seed of the grey's came from knize,maybe they're not lophophora at all.

The pic is a few years old,but you can pretty much distinguish between the two types.They have since become much more distinct.

Some lophophora can,and do grow with a whitish,pale grey epidermis,while some varieties remain blue/green.I just wish I had collection data on the white/grey plants. The whitish plants do seem to be much more tolerable of flucuating growth parameters.I'll see if I can get a pic up.

All strains of Peyote are plenty potent,the rituals associated with consumption influence the effects tremendously. Damn,whats up with all the potency questions,haven't you learned anything Teotz? Chill,learn and listen to what the plants tell you man! TO HEAR, ONE MUST FIRST LISTEN!

I have recently observed a mature macrogonus from SS seed,which seems to fit the short spine German plant.However macrogonus seed raised plants from Koehres seems to fit the longer spined plants,so I'm not sure that the seed stock is the same for both suppliers as stated ealier in the thread.Only time will tell.

According to some descriptions gleaned from this thread,both of these plants should fall under the invalid macrogonus description.They're decidedly different,but let the confusion continue. KK923 macrogonus sent to me by Knize,seems to fit. A wild collected plant thats finally started to display a bit of spination.The spines seem to fit,as does the macrogonus(large corners) tag. Educated speculation?

I agree Trucha,however we all know this particular plant as it was named.I see no need to change the designation,eventhough it holds no validity in terms of its region of collection.We can assume it was wild collected,and possibly hails from Argentina.I doubt Dunlap just chose a country and named the plant as such.Like most mysteries we have but a few clues. I don't feel dis-honest for retaining the name the plant came with,it's just how I received it,and I'll distribute it as such. It is a beauty of a plant,I hope thats what really matters to most of us .

I've had one cactus that displayed this curiosity.I cut a tulhuayacenis clone into small 3'' chunks for propagation and noticed about 1/3 of the vascular bundle was gone from the center 3'' chunk.Like a pencil had been shoved through the center.I've not noticed any side effects,yet.Oddly enough,this particular cutting also had a terminal tip.

I'm not sure what causes the headaches,but it seems to be very common. I really don't think a transient headache is that big of a trade off for the experiences to be had by comsuming cacti.

Climate? Fantastic observation!

I believe latitude is the main factor.

Sorry to hear that everyone. One day you're a law abiding citizen,the next you're a criminal.Absurd! That was one aspect of Australia I've always been envious of,Lophophora was legal to cultivate. Time to exist in the shadows with your plants. Sorry.