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Hey folks, I've been trying to get some Salvia recognita seedlings going for a while with no success. I've managed to get my germination rate to about 20% with scarification, soaking and a warm box. However no matter what I do/ what time of year, I can't get the seedlings to survive more than a few weeks. They just shrivel up and die. Has anyone had any success and what conditions did you keep them under. Thanks in advance.
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morrigan changed their profile photo
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Definitely keen.
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Could be https thing, try go http instead of https version.
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thanks - looks like I should experiment with blenders?
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Probably better off checking the nexus tek page. https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek
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Hi guys, Is there a site on this forum where I can find a simple method to prepare root bark for extraction without studying pharmacy please? Best growing, John s
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in a heartbeat. late April or early May perhaps?
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I'd consider a trip down if the winds are right and the moon phase lines up with the tides...
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Hi, is anyone interested in catching up? Lets discuss,
- Yesterday
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In my experience, cloning red khat has proven hit or miss. A humidity chamber is essential -- although air layering works well, even for larger cuttings. I'm keen to try from seed again with this variety, as last time I had a germination rate of zero % -- possibly I left them too long before sowing. I took two small cuttings recently that rooted in Brunnings propagating sand (from Bunnings), kept inside a humidity chamber. Seems to have worked just fine.
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migraineur commented on El Presidente Hillbillios's gallery image in Cacti & Succulents
Is this Peruvian kk242? -
Good price for the 3 plants.
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My original caapi vine came from a humid climate and then I grew it in Perth where the humidity isn't that high and it can drop rather low in Winter. The vine did just fine outside.
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You can also use little propagation chambers that have vents on top of that heat mat. Bunnings and hydro shops have them.
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Isn't the chance of cloning khat really low? If I tried to clone it I'd probably try air layering. However, plants produce bulk seeds and they're easy to grow.
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Banisteriopsis caapi cultivation notes and discussion
migraineur replied to sagiXsagi's topic in Ethnobotany
My rooted cuttings are in coir. When they're ready to be transplanted to a bigger container then I use Baileys 25L Premium Potting Mix which is $10 from Bunnings. I add perlite to help with drainage, aeration and to prevent compaction of the soil. If you want the soil to hold more moisture then you could mix some coir into the soil and perlite mix. -
Your right about the peres BigRed its right up the clacker. Using a knife would not be good, need something like a apple corer, or a drill bit. I'll let it grow more i think, but down the track am tempted to graft the whole thing for curiosity's sake. If it shows infection I could always cut individual lophs i suppose.
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EGA - Garden States Microdose Webcast - Cannabis & San Pedro Cultivation
watertrade replied to RonnySimulacrum's topic in News & Notices
That looks awesome. Thanks Ronnie and the EGA team! - Last week
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Banisteriopsis caapi cultivation notes and discussion
rottenjonny replied to sagiXsagi's topic in Ethnobotany
What would be the recommendation for potting medium or soil prep? -
thanks, I'll give it a try
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Best of success! I've been where you are with pests before and can totally empathize with your decision. If you have concern, wash off the sulfur and let the spider mites return to their full glory before the massacre. It actually should not harm anything if you just went ahead Milbemectin might be tried next if the mites turn out to be resistant to abemectin. Both can be had in concentrated forms that won't have that problem when diluted. I'm not suggesting powder as the risk to the operator and their surroundings is higher than many people are trained for but concentrates like Avid do exist. That solvent you refer to is for forming an emulsion with water. Shake the spraybottle frequently during application so it stays dispersed and use a white sheet to protect from sun afterwards.
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I appreciate the suggestions I've looked into persimilis and californicus predatory mites, but I think using an acaricide is the best option for now considering how bad the infestation is. In the future I might use them as part of IPM when they are under control. Now that there is a residue of sulphur on the plants, does anyone know how long should I wait before applying a pesticide? I will try the 70% iso in 2 weeks after spraying the plants down often to remove the sulphur. I was thinking about using kill-a-mite (abamectin solution), although this is dissolved in a solvent that will probably damage the waxy layer. There is another product out there called broad blue protect which is apparently an 8-week systemic I've looked at, but there is no information on it. In case anyone is thinking of trying bug boss king hit on cacti - don't! It dissolves the glaucus layer and causes scarring (I applied it at night, and this was before testing the sulphur).
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The residuals of what you’ve been trying might interfere with this getting started but we have had great success using predatory mites to control spider mites and russet mites on a range of plants. Read about them first as how they get introduced is important for good results. Some are better suited for indoor use than others. https://www.buglogical.com/spider-mite-predator/ https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/two-spotted-spider-mite-control-deciduous-fruit-trees https://www.arbico-organics.com/product/mite-predator-phytoseiulus-persimilis-spidermite-killer-greenhouse/pest-solver-guide-mites https://www.gardeninsects.com/spiderMiteControl.asp https://greenmethods.com/persimilis/ There are lots of suppliers but check reviews as this is a live product and not all suppliers are equal. In some cases the mites can’t survive without food so need to be shipped with some green leaves infected white flies or another food source to ensure live arrival. One other thing to keep in mind is that many approaches to pest control either cannot or should not be used on cacti. Anything that harms the waxy outer layer can result in scarring or burning. In some cases this is from losing their protection to the sun but sometimes it is due to the product causing actual damage. Oil sprays in particular should be avoided. Predatory nematodes can be helpful additions to cactus gardens also depending on what pest is causing problems.
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Banisteriopsis caapi cultivation notes and discussion
migraineur replied to sagiXsagi's topic in Ethnobotany
Yeah, I got my heated propagation chamber out of my storage room and I might use it for my iboga cuttings as I head into Autumn. It's still warm here though at the moment which is handy.
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