gtarman Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) So this is a bit of a lol moment coming off the back of my ermagerd-madeira-is-edible thread, but I've realised that I'm not really in a survival situation where I'd resort to eating slimey unpalatable tubers, and it is a real noxious pain in the ass that keeps trying to take over my backyard. So I'm wondering how best to poison Madeira vine? I've tried glyphosate/roundup with very limited results - it doesn't seem to stick to or penetrate to glossy leaves and doesn't really work consistently. All the vines in question are fully herbaceous (completely green, no woody parts) so I'm not sure if cut and paint would work - do you need the vine to be a bit bigger/more establised for cut and paint to work? I've even tried applying undiluted glyphosate 360 directly to the leaves with a paintbrush, but again, the glossy repellent surface makes it relatively ineffective. Any advice would be appreciated - I'm trying to kill this bastard off so I can replace it with sweet potato and other vines I'd actually *want* to eat. Edited November 5, 2015 by gtarman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarenna Posted November 5, 2015 There are several techniques of applying glyphosate that are effective, depending on nature of infestation - but persistence in invariably required. Madeira is an absolute rainforest/mesic ecosystem cancer. If stems are small (several mm wide) then cutting and bundling lots together and (really rapidly!!) putting them into a small jar/container of 100% glyph (360) is effective at getting uptake and transfer. On warm days you can get significant volume into the stems and might even need to refill the jar.... Larger stems can be scraped (not cut!) around to a length of 10-30cm and painted with 100% glyph (but you need to do it "spiralling" around the stem - not a single scrape but many to get maximum kill). The more volume you can get in the better to kill stems, foliage and aerial tubers. Because of waxy cuticle foliar spraying requires a penetrant such as Pulse to get herbicide into the system... Hope this helps - good luck!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderIdeal Posted November 5, 2015 If I'm picturing your situation correctly handweeding might be appropriate. Plant, mulch, monitor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderIdeal Posted November 5, 2015 Madeira with glyphos https://www.moretonbay.qld.gov.au/uploadedFiles/moretonbay/environment/vegetation/madeira-vine-using-glyphosate.pdf It suggests additives as per tarenna but says a wetting agent will do. Apparently detergent is inappropriate bur I suggest you do a small test with detergent to avoid buying a whole bottle of xyz. Failing that I can supply some xyz if you still live around hyar. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarenna Posted November 5, 2015 On my suburban block I get occasional fallout of tubers from the neighbours place - I pick em up pronto - on this scale manual control is easy. Scale and severity of infestation determine approach to control. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderIdeal Posted November 6, 2015 Its that revelatory moment in a young mans life when he comes to understand that bringing random vines home is fun but some of them may wish to remain permanent fixtures in his life. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sallubrious Posted November 6, 2015 I suppose it depends where it it's growing but many weeds can be killed with black plastic. If it's an isolated patch you can slash it and then hit it with a dose of weed and feed or fertiliser (water it in) and then cover the whole lot with plastic sheets for a few weeks. Then you let leave the plastic on until the new growth comes up, it should be chlorotic by then - white to pale yellow new growth and it doesn't have any natural UV protection. So then you take the plastic off plastic and let the sunlight fry the new growth. That only takes about one sunny day in summer. Then you fertilise or weed and feed it again cover it with plastic again until the next new growth comes up. Then fry it with UV (sunlight) for a day or and cover with plastic again and repeat. 3 cycles should do but this plant is very tenacious and has a strong will to live. Most weeds will die after one cycle but things like this with persistent rhizomes take several cycles because you have to exhaust the energy stored in the rhizomes. The fertiliser/weed and feed isn't essential, it just makes the rhizomes expend their energy faster. You have to weigh the plastic down down to exclude all light to ensure the new growth is chlorotic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtarman Posted November 7, 2015 Its that revelatory moment in a young mans life when he comes to understand that bringing random vines home is fun but some of them may wish to remain permanent fixtures in his life. LOL I didn't bring it home TI, I'm not that daft. I actually first encountered it upon moving into my current place, it was always very well established here so the ground is full of tubers all over the yard. I try pull up small plants when I see them and hve the energy but the bigger patches are just too much for me to control manually. I'd heard of the wetting agent thing...might have to do some more looking into it. I had a feeling my glyph already had some wetting agent but I might be wrong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtarman Posted November 7, 2015 There are several techniques of applying glyphosate that are effective, depending on nature of infestation - but persistence in invariably required. Madeira is an absolute rainforest/mesic ecosystem cancer. If stems are small (several mm wide) then cutting and bundling lots together and (really rapidly!!) putting them into a small jar/container of 100% glyph (360) is effective at getting uptake and transfer. On warm days you can get significant volume into the stems and might even need to refill the jar.... Larger stems can be scraped (not cut!) around to a length of 10-30cm and painted with 100% glyph (but you need to do it "spiralling" around the stem - not a single scrape but many to get maximum kill). The more volume you can get in the better to kill stems, foliage and aerial tubers. Because of waxy cuticle foliar spraying requires a penetrant such as Pulse to get herbicide into the system... Hope this helps - good luck!! Also Tarenna, how long would you leave the freshly cut stems in the roundup jar for? How long is long enough for sufficient uptake? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarenna Posted November 7, 2015 Basically as long as the herbicide will draw up - best to do anytime from mid morning to later in the afternoon afternoon. Watch closely to see how much is being drawn up. If the bottle is emptied then put more in. Good growing weather (like right now) is best... Active uptake = a good kill, particularly of aerial tubers. Voila! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtarman Posted November 11, 2015 Madeira with glyphos https://www.moretonbay.qld.gov.au/uploadedFiles/moretonbay/environment/vegetation/madeira-vine-using-glyphosate.pdf It suggests additives as per tarenna but says a wetting agent will do. Apparently detergent is inappropriate bur I suggest you do a small test with detergent to avoid buying a whole bottle of xyz. Failing that I can supply some xyz if you still live around hyar. Based on that sheet I'm actually thinking I might just get some starane for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtarman Posted November 11, 2015 Oh bugger it looks expensive though, and for some reason it seems tricky to find? Doesn't seem like Bunnings or hardware stores have it :-s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderIdeal Posted November 11, 2015 Aka comet It has a potent smell that you don't want on your clothes. Maybe go with the adjuvant/penetrant instead. That's something that will come in handy for all of your future spraying adventures. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarenna Posted November 11, 2015 Rural/ag/produce stores are the way to go for these types of chemicals - and can be the cheapest if you shop around 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtarman Posted November 12, 2015 After re-reading that council madeira sheet you linked to and realising I'm dirt-poor, I think I might just do the cut and dip into a glyph jar as per Tarenna's suggestion, apparently 15 seconds is enough. And I already have both glyphosate and jars! Many thanks for your kindly assistances folks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
