VINS Posted January 30, 2003 hy all, this question is about the use of cutting hormone. i have read on all the hormone box, that i need to becarrefull to humidity during storage. but is it possible to use it diluted in the watering to increase roots system not to do cutting ? about the normal use: some people said me that i musn't put some powder at the section of the stem but only arround . and the paper in the bow said : simply put the stem in powder. so, do i have to be carrefull on where i put the powder or can i put it everywhere on the stem ? there is a few hormone, sometime there is just one in the product and sometime 4 or five. is there some particularity in there use ? does one best for tree and another best for flowers ? i hopeyou could help me since lot of people here are doing tissu culture and cuttings.(maybe an occasion to talk with you darklight !since i have never do it) ciao and thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted January 30, 2003 Since I'm named after rooting hormones I guess I'd better say something. Using rooting hormones on intact plants doesnt always affect the root system, but when it does its not generally an effect you would want. Many of the hormones (including just about anything with naphthalene or naphthoxy in the name) make thicker roots and others (including just about anything with indole in the name) make thiner roots. From what I've seen for cuttings you dont generally need to coat the stem with rooting powder like the box says, just thuroughly mix a tiny bit in with the water. Too much rooting hormones will produce big ugly useless calluses rather than roots, the right ammount is a small ammount (usually 0.5-20ppm of the hormone itself depending on the hormone). Stay away from stuff based on indole-3-acetic acid, that stuff is quite unstable. Indole-3-butyric acid and indole-3-propionic acid are better. 2-Naphthoxyacetic acid and the naphthaleneacetic acids are quite good in my opinion (those are the main 'fat root' rooting hormones and they are quite stable to water, air, and light). As for rooting powder shelf-life it lasts longest in a airtight dry lightproof container in the refrigerator. Most of them will last for years in those conditions (indole-3-acetic acid still being the first to decompose). Some people tell me they use willow leaf tea as a homemade rooting promoter, but I've never tried that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VINS Posted February 1, 2003 thank you Auxin ! i have not all understand (language problem again)but i think i have my answer. and about your name; good choice ! it is short and in relation with plant and look like an ordinary name. i prefer that than people using this kind of name :gbfg879445g4 i am sorry for them but i will never remember them... Ciao Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darklight Posted February 1, 2003 'Ello Vin's cobber I don't know whether your IBA pack will list the full ingredients and percentages on it, but if it doesn't dissolve fairly quickly in water it is prolly not in a salted form. So to get it to dissolve, put the equivalent of 150mg ( if you have a balance which handles that amount ) into a beaker and add a *few* millilitres of ethanol, or methylated spirits will do. Stir it round for a bit til it does dissolve, then add water til you hit the 1L mark Auxin is right when he says many hormones degrade. They do this via a few different mechanisms I think, one of which is photodegradation- light will destroy some fairly quickly. So fridge or freeze your solutions, use them quickly or make a new batch each time The infinitely clever darcy showed me how to strike roots on cuttings using honey. Yes that's right- honey You need to use stuff straight from the beehives ( health food shops often sell it unprocessed ) , don't use the processed crap you get at supermarkets. Other than that you dip the end of yr plant in any you're away. Some old bushman's remedy apparrantly, no idea what the mechanism is but it worked brilliantly. Don't know if it works only for Aus natives cos that's all I tried it with, but it worked very well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VINS Posted February 3, 2003 hey Darklight, hello !!! happy to talk with you. i just hope "cobber" was not an insanity, i don't find it in the dictionnary!ah,ah!! :D this use of honey is really funny, thanks to Darcy ! about the water solution : do i have to wait the ethanol evaporation before using it on plants ? for me cutting is a nightmare, every time i tried i killed my plants. except with the really easy plant like salvia or mj.(i say that but this year i have killed a lot of salvia. the only cutting with 100% succes are cactee because i have nothing to do except waiting... i have buy a thermo/hygro and a greenhouse but i have to look the evidence: with cutting i havn't got green fingers. (bouh,snif,snif...) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slarty Fart Blaster Posted February 3, 2003 I know this is a little off topic but it IS about plant hormones. SWIM in Portugal is having some difficulty with a plant that goes by the name White Russian, he had started these from seed and was pleased at the germination rate and pleasantly so at the % of ladies he got. The problem is that with just a two hour drop in hours of light, 16 hrs, the majority began to flower. He has reverted two of them to veg growth but would love to know if there are any ways of manipulating the ratio of flower hormone the stubborn plants have and to win them over to vegetive growth again as they look like very promising genetic material he said. He even took cuttings from the growth they put on after bumping the hours back up but they also are stubbornly still producing flowers and not the vegetive pattern of growth he would have wanted for a mother. If this is a topic thats too sensative for a public forum, dont hesitate to email me at [email protected], it only takes two minutes to set up an account if you dont already have one. Any advice would be much appreciated as he has put in many hours of thc, oops, i mean tlc in to these plants. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted February 3, 2003 "about the water solution : do i have to wait the ethanol evaporation before using it on plants ?" No, the ethanol is there to keep some more hormone dissolved so more can be absorbed by the plant. Just DO NOT use too much or it will be worse than using no hormone at all. I rarely use any. "would love to know if there are any ways of manipulating the ratio of flower hormone the stubborn plants have" UH OH! You said the phrase that has baffled scientists for a hundred years- flower hormone (or florigen as some scientists call it) at this point it is still imaginary/hypothetical. It is likely that flower induction is caused by a specific shift in a delicate balance of numerous hormones and growth factors brought on by climactic changes and the plants internal clock (Can you smell the BS in that sentence? In short we still dont know). [ 03. February 2003, 16:21: Message edited by: Auxin ] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
