nothinghead Posted December 7, 2007 I'm posting this after hearing someone at EGA having troubles with getting fissuratus seedlings to take to pereskiopsis. I didn't get a chance to catch up with after that, but I've had the same problem with young ario's "melting" into the pereskiopsis stock. Here is a method I've had success with for grafting fissuratus (incl. intermedius) onto pereskiopsis. Germinate the seed according to MSSmith's closet care, or whichever humid environment tech works best for you. After germination, leave the seedling in 100% humidity for at least two weeks. Prep the pere stock by putting it in a humidity chamber for at least a week before grafting (I use an old fishtank with a sheet of glass on top, pere's absolutely thrive in there). After the seedling has been growing for a few weeks, reduce the humidity. I germinate my arios in ziplock bags, so to reduce humidity I just open a part of the ziplock, opening a little more each day for a week or so. I usually notice the full, bright green seedlings reduce a little when introduced to lower humidity. This is when I graft onto the pereskiopsis, cutting not too close to the top, but still in the fresh, young green growth, and then replace the pere into the humidity chamber. I've had good success using this method, and hope it helps a little. I think the trick is hardening the plant a little before grafting, although just to note, I haven't found this to be the case with lophophora. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
incognito Posted December 8, 2007 thankyou very much man! fissuratus definately seems to need the 100% humidity alot longer than the other ario vars that ive been grafting. i knew the trick was in the humidity somewhere, will try this then get back, wish me luck. any chance of some pics? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted December 8, 2007 good tip cough im gonna try this with a few other type that have been refusing to graft as easily as lophs. and i second the high humidity for grafting peres i got a cheap fishtank from cheap as chips a while ago and have a tuppaware container of water sitting inside and a piece of foam over the top. success rates of loph grafts have gone up dramatically since i have put them in there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nothinghead Posted December 8, 2007 Sorry Jono, I don't have a digital camera, and most of my pere grafts were destroyed during a hail storm. I agree the fissuratus like the longer periods in high humidity, but I find that all ario seedlings can stay in, and benefit from, high humidity for many months. Kots especially seems to slow right down when taken out of humidity. Haga, I find the humidity chamber accelerates growth as well as making grafts take more successfully. I often just pour water into the bottom of the tank and it gets soaked up in a couple of days by the thirsty peres! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
incognito Posted December 8, 2007 yeah cool, ive always done the high humidity thing utilizing a little baggy put over the scion until the vascular bundles have welded,(along with keeping my flood and drain tray on the bottom of my graft room with around an inch of H20 on the bottom, ithink this may comply with ur 'keep the whole peres in humidity', the baggie localises the humidity around the join, when u gettin those thimbles t?) the only two fissurs i have left intact growing on the peres are the ones i still have enclaved in zip lock bags after close to 1.5 months? (flood and drain tray now empty, so the ambient humidity is much much less) i always lose them as soon as i start reducing the humidity, im to scared to take the bags of, but the fissurs seem to be quite happy! i mean retusus, kotch, trig, agavoides are fine after removing the baggie after a few days to a week,(i usually release the water out of the flood and drain after two weeks)and are growing really well on the peres. hmm i can alter my indoors grow environment as i have a hydro flood and drain tray underneath my heat mats that i have my grafts and seedlings growing on, so all i need do is add water to the drain tray to provide the humidity for the grow room while everything welds. this i have done and maintained the humidity for the duration of the seed germination and the scion graft welds, has been very beneficial in all regards except these freaking fissuratus!! if i had any hair left it would be well torn out by now! it really shatters me as the fissuratus is my favorite cacti, and here in aus they command crazy ass prices. the thais seem to be on their game though!! they seem to always have georgeous grafts up for sale on ebay!!! i WILL suss this out!! i think humidity duration plays a LARGE part, dont rush em out of it, or tears will result. a very gradual reduction after vascularwelds are made and the graft is taking on significant growth i think u should only really think about hardening of to natural room/outdoor humidity. very important to graft the fissur seedling when its GREEN and pumping, any other (slightly red, not really seen to be growing) ends up sucked into the peres(in my experience) much betterto leave those ones in the seedlingtrays and weak liquid fert on a weekly basis until they green up. once i can afford to get my camera fixed ill take some pics of my grow room, so any of the growers out there can give me some tips to correct any errors i may have in place. any help appreciated!! these are purely my own thoughts and conjectures, and would luuuurv any input from like growers!! have a beautiful day yall!! jono xxxx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted December 11, 2007 On sept 25th I grafted a 3 week old Ariocarpus fissuratus. By Oct 16th it was showing signs of growth and was well underway in being hardened off. Upon hardening off it turned red as a beet but stayed healthy and kept growing. It now has 3 tubercles and is showing the fourth comming in, its still red tho I have it under mild light with my cactus seedlings and young grafts, might reintroducing some humidity green it up? I assume if its red its stressed alot. This is it today: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted December 11, 2007 i have had many loph grafts turn bright red like that. it will sort itself out as it gets bigger. i have never thought of humidity as being the main factor. i have always thought heat or light. not sure but yeah, it will be fine as it gets bigger. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
incognito Posted December 11, 2007 fissurs and lophs totally different ballgame i rekon. yes auxin as soon as i start hardening of from humidity, they go red, then start losing moisture rapidly, then getsucked into the stock. id keep urgraft as humid as possible until it shows SIGNIFICANT growth, u could try with one anyways, -goodluck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted December 11, 2007 auxins is old enough now. The red is a response to too much light though I suspect that as the small seedlings are not doing alot of the photosynthesising it serves as a way to divert energy from production of chlorophyll and into growth. Kinda like make the most of the opurtunity cos they never know when its gonna stop. They will green up eventually Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
incognito Posted December 11, 2007 (edited) HEY TEO OL' BOY!i knew z graft master/barra extraordinaire would turn up eventually! teo have u done fissurs? how did they go? what tek did u follow? could it be that fissurs are light sensitive at a young age as well? any pics please????????? if ur fissurs where succesful teo, did u do anything different to what u would a loph graft re. conditions? Edited December 11, 2007 by jono Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted December 11, 2007 nope i aint done fissurs, phil done one and weve watched that grow for ages now (I wanna do some but). Im just commenting on my experience with lophs and thier pinkness. Arios are next once Ive grafted all these loph babies, and that could take a while :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rahli Posted December 11, 2007 (edited) I have grafted 5 Ariocarpus fissuratus. Out of the first 3 only 1 joined successfully but only by a thread. It has now fully joined. The other two just refused to join. One of the failures I placed back in the seed tray and it sprouted a root (here). The second two I used a clear cap of a nasal spray bottle weighted with wire to apply pressure on the graft for the first 2 or 3 days. This worked well but you have to use the seedlings that have not fully sprouted tubercles. The second 2 that were weighted took longer to start putting on growth. One was eaten by something and the other is just starting to put on growth after being dormant for a few months. Edited December 11, 2007 by rahli Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
