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Inyan

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Image Comments posted by Inyan

  3. smallpere1.jpg

    in Propagation & Cultivation

       2

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Gambeard said:

    Would you graft something on it so tall? It would need propping up but surely the scion would explode! 

     

    When it comes to grafting, there is not much I won't try. I find that the best way to learn is to do. If you never attempt that which is hard or seen as crazy then you will never achieve that which is hard or seen as crazy.

  8. 30May Areole Graft.jpg

    in Cacti & Succulents

       2

    Posted

    2 hours ago, MeanGreen said:

    Waiting to see if it pups for you and in what timeframe before I attempt the same thing :)

     

    Would also love to see an update on the one where you grafted several variegated areoles in place of areoles in the stock, if you see which one I'm talking about.

    It most certainly will pup. Now, if I put Ga-3, BAP, or keikigrow on the areole it would most assuredly grow and pup faster. Often times, such chemicals are mixed with DMSO in gel form to ensure that it stays over the areole and does not run over onto the stock forcing the stock to grow instead of the areole in question.

     

    The best way to learn to graft like this is  to practice yourself. Also, don't skimp on the basic tools. I rarely show all my tricks, but I do show enough that you should succeed. I will tell you three very basic tools that can be had very inexpensively to help  you with grafts such as this one... string, self adhesive coban, and parafilm.

     

    String is good because it allows you to pull on different sides of the graft when it is small like this and really let you peer underneath the sides as you wrap to ensure you have a good connection. String is bad however as it does not stretch. As the graft dries out it loosens. This is why you must protect your graft from drying out too fast with this method. The string by itself may not be enough to hold it secure.

     

    Coban, you can tear or cut this into very thin strips for use on this type of graft. I place it on after the string if I am going to use it and I highly recommend using it. Place this over such a graft in such as way as to firmly hold down the middle of the graft especially, but also the sides. A Simple "X" pattern is nice, but another thing strip through the middle of the X is often better. If you place an additional larger strip over the whole graft this can also hold in some  humidity and let your graft breath a little as well.

     

    Parafilm, this helps hold in a bit more moisture so that a humidity dome is not needed. 

     

    These steps alone will give you success. There are indeed better ways of doing it, but I'm not giving away all my techniques just yet. Some things I also feel are best learned from watching ones own failures. 

     

    I believe I posted one  of my failed grafts here to show one of the pitfalls of grafting with crests somewhere on this forum. 

     

    Before i forget, let me thank you MeanGreen for sharing your own grafts with the community. You are always teaching someone to include me when you do that so, I have to thank you for being willing to do that for us. Your not afraid of posting your failures just as I try to post some of my failures so you can see how to fix problems that might occur as well as figure out new ways of grafting. 

     

    The number one cause of a graft like this not working is it drying out! The number 2 cause of a graft like this failing is infection. Place the eye of the areole over the ring itself when it is a single eye like this. Also, try to use a bigger eye. The bigger the eye the less it will dry out. Minimize the surface area of the areole that is cut and exposed to the air while it is healing.

     

    Hope this extra bit of information helps you my friend.

     

    • Like 1

  13. push the button

    in Member's Gallery

       2

    Posted

    I always love looking at pictures of your little slice of paradise. Why on Earth I don't see a sea of variegated specimens interspersed with that heavenly spot you have there is beyond me though. 

    • Like 2

  17. Slab Graft crested pachanoi 2.jpg

    in Cacti & Succulents

       8

    Posted

    1 minute ago, Halcyon Daze said:

    Looks awesome. An experiment you might like to try on one is to poke a couple small holes in the film (with a pin) to reduce condensation and every couple days add another hole. 

     

    I did this to all of mine and they all worked out. It may not be necessary at all but it's worth a try. 

     

    My thinking is that it would help prevent any rot and also reduce the shock of removing the film in one go.

     

    Keep up the good work man, your grafting looks pro. :)

    Depending on the size of the graft and the speed of growth of the stock at the time of grafting I often do just that. It shows you have a keen mind for grafting and a willingness to share your techniques which I love though as some are not so eager to spill the beans when it comes to grafting.

     

    Other times, I only leave this wrap in place for anywhere from 48-72 hours. Cutting a few sides of the stock allows the majority of the parafilm to stay in place and slows the drying out, but the longer you keep something like this in place the longer the adaption back to normal should be and... yes... the slower  one should be in bringing about that change. 48-72 hours though... generally safe to completely remove the parafilm in most cases. Its all relative when it comes to grafting.

    • Like 2

  18. Rooted tiny pup!

    in Cacti & Succulents

       2

    Posted

    Congrats on getting your baby to root. As to your question, I've frequently gotten cacti that size to root. In fact, I have a small bag of cuttings that size I am rooting at the moment after making a bunch of areole grafts... as I used those small fry TrichocereusIMG_3839.thumb.jpg.cd785f9def2dcd7887491887b16197b9.jpg for stock believe it or not.

    • Like 3

  19. yowie power

    in Member's Gallery

       10

    Posted

    Trichocereus are not self-fertile, so you have to pollinate another variety or clone other than your Yowie with your Yowie pollen. I'm not sure you knew that, but if not... then there is that to think about as well. Another reason to store your pollen in the freezer till you have something else blooming. With that said, there are some Trichocereus that will flower at just a few feet in height like L.E.R. Also some hybrids are known to flower while very small. Another reason I love hybrids. Moving cacti around can also cause them to drop fruit.

  20. yowie power

    in Member's Gallery

       10

    Posted

    I should have mentioned, I fluff the q-tip first. Rolling it around your fingers to loosen up the cotton allows you to really load it with pollen. Store those q-tips thus fluffed in a sealed container in the freezer for next year if need be....

    • Like 1

  23. Slab Graft crested pachanoi 2.jpg

    in Cacti & Succulents

       8

    Posted

    On 3/17/2018 at 9:20 PM, Halcyon Daze said:

    Also, in my humble opinion I think it would have been beneficial to trim the tail off the slab because as the stock dries out it will curl up and potentially lift the scion away from the stock. Let us know if it succeeds or fails and your thoughts on why. I'm hoping for a big double WIN :)

    Here is one of my many babies today Halcyon Daze, just thought I would share it with you to show you how I try to keep them from drying out. Hope this helps in some way.

    grafttoday19March.jpg

    • Like 2

  24. Slab Graft crested pachanoi 2.jpg

    in Cacti & Succulents

       8

    Posted

    36 minutes ago, Halcyon Daze said:

    Looks like a good idea. Are you aiming to get 2 pups or just double your chance of a successful graft?

     

    What did you hold it down with?

    To be honest I was just being lazy with the two like that. Parafilm was used to hold the graft down.

    31 minutes ago, Halcyon Daze said:

    Also, in my humble opinion I think it would have been beneficial to trim the tail off the slab because as the stock dries out it will curl up and potentially lift the scion away from the stock. Let us know if it succeeds or fails and your thoughts on why. I'm hoping for a big double WIN :)

    When I wrap my stock with parafilm... it creates a natural humidity chamber... thus it does not dry out and will not dry out... unless I remove the parafilm. With that being said, accidents due happen. A single crack or hole on the bottom side of the graft can allow the whole graft to go to pot if one is not careful. A good backup would be to place the whole graft like this in a humidity chamber for just in case. 

     

    All in all though, I like the way your grafting brain works. Many might not have thought about making that tail a bit shorter to keep it from drying out.

  25. Slab Graft crested pachanoi 2.jpg

    in Cacti & Succulents

       8

    Posted

    Crested grafts can often resort back to non-crested growth for a time after being grafted like this. The genetics will still allow something like this to throw out variegates and crested specimens however regardless of the current phenotype it is expressing. So, if your into breeding cacti it would still be a boon to have something like this to breed with.

    • Like 2
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