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The Corroboree

drpotato

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Everything posted by drpotato

  1. What do you mean by that? the seeds will produce random ratios or something between the two crossed plants? In any case i didnt realize until just now but that bush grew super fast, i literally thought it was just a new branch i was thinking of cutting it back until that day i saw it was a new plant. I might give cloning a try, no particular reason, its a nice chilli, really hot, but also rather big, which is good given all i have are habanero, fatali, ghost which are basically inedible, then there is tabasco (too small), and jalapeno (not hot enough) and the cayenne pepper (sometimes bitter aftertaste), which all have their own specific weaknesses, for general use cooking. But these new ones are pretty fleshy and dont end up bitter where the cayenne peppers are bitter so it looks like a perfect upper range chilli for general use, plus its growing in a bad location
  2. Who actually frequently consumes that stuff? As a drink. Smoking i can understand, but the drink? MAOi's are dangerous, its the chemical equivalent of doing drugs intravenously compared to eating them, relative to the risks. Though, many people on them i suppose do just fine with a list of things to avoid, like grapefruit, i think. It is interesting though, how religion affects psychopathy. Religion kind of pre-sets a way of living, to a textbook, a psychopath would fit right in since fitting in literally just means following the book, rather than freestyle imitating and analyzing cues and all that, how they interpret social activity manually or increasingly so with severity of psychopathy. I rather though dont like the title here, because your kind of representing any and all psychedelics at face value, so, any preceding commentary immediately implies the negative effects of DMT+MAO inhibitor, an inherintly risky drug which i am confident in my understanding its not that common or regularly used, opposed to, safer ones, wether harder or lighter in effect. Immediately i thought maybe this would be about psilocybe mushrooms
  3. Im talking about harvesting bulk amounts of spores by holding glass slides under the mushrooms while they grow, getting days or more of spore deposits for the entire maturity stage of the mushroom. This is with cakes mind you in a different fruiting chamber where humidity is less regulated/lower to reduce the chances of infection. Is this practical at all? would it work? I mainly want to do this to harvest huge amounts of spores to mess around with, for long term and backup prints im still doing it properly, but, just for bulk spores, for filling filling a spray bottle or something to innoculate an outside area where mushies might grow, or, just up in the wind to innoculate all the cow fields downwind When i say, would this work, i mean, compared to a cap on foil under a cup, what are my chances of contamination? how would they differ between my normal fruiting chamber and a special one just for catching spores? im just trying it out now to see how much spore i can get, but this is roughly what i would do, maybe i would also consider making a little stand with alligator clips to hold the slide in the future, where its more likely my cakes will be upright
  4. drpotato

    Cane mulch for white oyster?

    how long does a bag like that end up fruiting for? like, does it ever end? or is it just exhaustive until either the water or nutrients expire
  5. drpotato

    Cane mulch for white oyster?

    I too was interested about this, cane mulch is really cheap here, given its sugar cane country and all, it literally costs more to buy the cheapest bag of dirt, and im always seeing myc growing out of them so i knew something would take to it. Just wasnt completely sure until now if it would. Man i really gotta get them started
  6. Basically give users the option to adjust the color scheme, if not already possible (in which case how?) Many forums do this, letting users customize the fonts/colors of the forum as they see it, personally i really liked the old colors, or rather, i dont especially like blue grey and white together the way it is. Any chance this will become a feature later on? Otherwise the new forum style (besides the colors) is awsome XD
  7. drpotato

    VIC - $100 flow hood / uv light

    "sterile plant propagation"...rriiiiight....;)
  8. From bunnings or wherever else. I bought some but all ive ever gotten from it is green mold. I bought this forever ago so, i cant return the on i got (shiitake though did work fine), im thinking of buying spawn, using it, then returning it if it contaminates beyond a reasonable doubt from the spawn, until i get spawn which is clean enough that the oyster myc at very least can outgrow the contam, best scenarios with my current spawn does not see that happening, i.e, myc may grow at some point but its in the middle of a contamination mess, it grows incredibly slowly and its impossible to get a clean piece no matter how hard i try, partially because the mold spores spread so very very very easily. Anyway, im just wondering if anyone has ever gotten clean oyster spawn (and what kind if you did), that grew on agar/normal media. I suspect that the mushroom growing boards (made from shredded poplar wood), perhaps have some sort of substance in them which at first, inhibits the growth of spores and bacteria, on a oyster friendly environment, so only the spawn really does anything. Or maybe not. Either way, i want to know if my plan is viable or not. Im positive ill get my refund each time, no worries about that, but, i wonder if its really worth it at all?
  9. because humidity fluctuates with temperature. And more holes means less control for me. Id like to confidently be able to leave it alone for days at a time, ideally id check it daily, but i mean id like to be ABLE to leave it alone. Id rather control the humidity so it never gets too high than use a chamber incapable of getting that high.
  10. I happen to have a bubbler stone for some reason, it makes for an effective way to introduce clean air into a fruiting chamber. I have a really small 3v vacuum pump, in that, it can suck really hard, and does so with pistons or a kickass diaphragm. I was wondering, since im going to stick lights, a temp/hygrometer in there (1 piece), why not a pump too. the pump would serve to introduce fresh air into the fruiting chamber and lower the humidity from the wet perlite, so i can buffer the humidity at all times away from 100% increasingly from now on as the wet season transitions to the dry, the nights will get progressively colder, the days will at a lesser rate get cooler, so ill have large temp fluctuations. At the same time my shed has a bug problem and i have a bad luck problem, id like to minimize the holes in the fruiting chamber even if they are filled with polyfill. would this work at all? the idea is to connect the hygrometer module to an ic and adjust the pumps input accordingly to how humid or not the fruiting chamber is. Might even have a fan inside too on a timer just to give things a stir once in a while, if it needs it. The main objective is to introduce fresh air without compromising integrity of the chamber, second but very closely comes humidity control, third is positive pressure to keep things clean. So, do i need this? Or at least, should i try it? i dont like having to air out the fruiting chamber either because incase the cake or perlite becomes contaminated.
  11. The vacuum pump is off aliexpress, a cheap thing. Probably found looking up 3v or 5v vacuum pump or 3v 50kpa or 18kpa, something like that. I only mentioned that fact to state its not a diaphragm pump like a normal aquarium pump. Its designed for air. And yeah, pre filtered too. the bubbler is only small, its there to lessen the potential of contaminants making it through. Given its quite small the air that bubbles through wont actually be that humid, not by that much. I am pretty confident that it will be less humid than the air already in there anyway which is otherwise at 100%, especially when the temps drop at the end of the day, if it turns out im mistaken about this and the bubbler actually somehow does work more effectively than the wet perlite floor (which i doubt still), ill just remove that part then. Regarding the bugs, in the shed the cockroaches are about 8-10cm long, in the house, <1cm, of course there are other insects there too, but, its safer in the shed, plus climate wise theres not much difference either way. I would certainly say bugs are worse in the house. I know contaminants wont easily grow on a colonized cake, im more worried about the perlite going rancid or the fruits themselves getting infected with something, compromising their use for spore prints. Less exposure is better regardless of type.
  12. drpotato

    FREE spore print/live culture trading thread

    not the same, this thread is special.
  13. drpotato

    FREE spore print/live culture trading thread

    Im just sitting patiently for someone to put up an edible up for grabs, i have plently of , to be politically proper "inedible" spores i wouldnt mind parting with, specially from my golden teachers and creepers ready for the fruiting chamber
  14. well, my local bunnings is still fully stocked
  15. drpotato

    Looking for mushroom spore prints, edibles or psilocybes

    ok, i got some spores at last
  16. Hi, im looking for spore prints, im finding them very difficult to obtain inside australia, period, regardless of kind, many of the places seem kinda sketchy too asking for bitcoins or money orders. Im after any of the faster / easier growing species of oysters. for microscopy purposes only, prints of any psilocybe cubensis strains, even contaminated or wild prints, or used prints is fine. Im particularly after the more domesticated strains or those with quick colonization speeds, regardless of the amount of fruiting they do. Please PM me if you have any spare for sale or otherwise. Again ill note these are for microscopy purposes. Also im only looking for spores within Australia only.
  17. drpotato

    Looking for mushroom spore prints, edibles or psilocybes

    ive been hunting but besides a teeny tiny oyster at the botanical gardens i can hardly find common lawn mushrooms let alone others. Theres no forests or anything here, its all open exposure and clay soils, cow fields rarely have any mushrooms for long, usually only after a solid week of being overcast, then they shrivel away as soon as the sun comes out. My region has a very thin atmosphere for some reason, so mushrooms arent too common, though still i have been looking hard in cow fields all the same, its just only really really tiny species ever seem to get growing, or inactive pans species
  18. Hi, I was looking through my seeds and just noticed that a while back i bought some gerardiana seeds. I totally forgot. Anyway, now i have a heat mat and a better collection of sands and materials for propagation and making soils. So, what kind of environment and soil and moisture should i use to get the best possible germination rate? I cant find any seeds anywhere else anymore, so this is my last chance to grow this plant. in case your wondering im not planning on growing it for its ephridrine, i just like growing medicinal and semilegal plants for novelty, but i know i dont have to explain myself here. Anyway, can anyone please help me out?
  19. check this out https://www.tonycookretail.co.uk/system/pictures/000/001/432/normal/DSCF0205.JPG?1367405544 i bought a bag on impulse, they are like little pellets each imbued with spores, given past difficulty with growing mushrooms due to contamination, i dont know what to think, given the type of people buying this it should be idiotproofed. However, only for pure wood. I, dont want to wait that long for such mild rewards, i want to do something big, like a great big cake sized cake, but made of what? ill be keeping it in a climate controlled indoor greenhouse with humifier and UV lighting. i want to be able to get results in 3-5 weeks opposed to 6-8. but if thats not practical thats fine, then i just want to try increasing my yeild at least, the advised setup mimics a natural inoculated log, which you are supposed to put in a garden once its going. At the moment i can get ahold of wild pine, unlimited coconut husk, i want a reason to trim the hell out of a mulberry tree i planted in what should be a veggie patch but got out of control, so mulberry branches, and whatever selection of woods available to someone in subtropical queensland.
  20. Ok, heres the jazz i live in a really windy region, for all intents and purposes, its impossble to grow anything that isnt matured outside, because of the harsh sun and intense wind. My problem is that i have seedlings in my seed trays that stop growing after the first week, they never seem to mature beyond their first two seed leaves. actually, nothing really grows well even in potting mix no matter how i go about it, i tried making special mixes but nothing works, not even compost, now im considering using hydroponics stuff, ill just pretend the soil is sand, even though its yates seed raising mix and potting mix. while this applies to nearly all my seedlings, the main issue is with chillis, one time i actually managed to germinate a psychotria viridis but it never went beyond the two leaf stage for several months. then died. So, how do i get soil in which my seeds will germinate and grow into fairly mature plants, which go beyond the initial seedling phase? I need to get them big enough that i can plant them directly into the ground, then they will be fine. unfortunately the soil here is terrible, solid clay, you can make pots out of it its that bad, but, so long as the moisture is regulated, the stuff is amazing for growing with, probably since the land was a cane paddock, then a cow pasture. No matter what i do though, seedlings wont work in it, plants need to be a certain size, i think its because the young roots cant penetrate the clay, or tolerate how the water moves through the soil. at bunnings, they have some chillis ive tried to grow in the same size pots, mine are 3-5cm tall and look awful, while at bunnings, the plant is 30cm tall and bearing fruit, what the hell! I always pay close attention, frequently water in small amounts so as to regulate a moist but not wet soil condition, and decent potting mix but nothing seems to work, its as if im growing my seedlings in cotton. so, what exactly is wrong? How do i fix the issue. the roots never reach the bottom of the tray and there shouldnt be anything wrong with the seed raising mix. Im growing everything in a mini seedling greenhouse with a heated mat for the night cold and to make the chillis sprout better, but the problem was there before i was using the greenhouse.
  21. i tried having the tray outside, but when its hot enough that the seeds wont die from cold, but during the day it gets blisteringly hot. we have very strong constant winds, and a thin atmosphere so it means all year round extreme index UV thanks for the advice
  22. Hi, I just went and bought a psychotria alba plant, because my viridis isnt doing too well. actually to be honest its been slowly dying since i got it. I dont know whats wrong, it took a turn for the worst when the cold set in, but otherwise it should have been awsome, leaves were all wrinkly and of the few healthy leaves i got off it they rotted away before doing anything, the leaves were too small though. Anyway, i feel as though i used a bad soil when i potted it after it started to look bad after spending a few months or so in the original container. Right now its a shrivelled stalk but its budding new leaves, if i play my cards right, it may well come back to me. what are the ideal soil conditions for viridis and what should i do, do i take it back inside in a smaller pot? add some seasol or something? How do i make it come back to life so to speak? in its pot i used a standard premium potting mix with a bit of the garden soil (clayi-ish but very very nutrient rich, is ex cow paddock soil), should i dig it out and change the soil? Now, about alba, i want to grow it in a pot outside, what are the ideal conditions and what kind of soil should it have? i want it to stay in that pot and grow big and strong enough that i can make heaps of clones from the leaves.
  23. Hi, ive recently bought 3 different varieties of seed raising mix, all of which produced the same results, plants grew as if grown in cotton, they never seem to develope beyond seedling stage, such as for instance growing woody, and developing so much as a third leaf. Mostly im growing chilli, i dont understand whats going wrong, these potting mixes such as brunnings, seem to germinate it all ok, but thats it, the growth quickly stops. at first i thought, there must be an issue with the water, or climate or whatever so i planted them after seeing no growth for a month, and boom! within 2 weeks my tabasco chilli went from an almost leafless stump to a full fruiting bush, as did all the tomatoes i tried out also. i mixed up a large batch of 2/3rds seed raising mix and 1/rd equal parts peat moss, vermaculite and perlite, as thats all i thought the potting mix bunnings uses for its enormous seedlings, but nothing ive planted in that, seedlings into larger pots that is, seems to grow. As its apparent the mixes have no nutrients that are useable immediately and/or by seedlings, i want to know, what do i have to do, to make a soil in which my chillis and other plants will grow big and strong? the reason for this is because i literally have NO means of safely growing the plants in a protected enviroment other than temoprarily indoors while they get big enough to survive outside. its quite windy here, so everything must be tough enough to be out in the sun and wind, tied to a support stick. in the shade here, the tempurature is too cold, most of the heat here is from the sun, ive tried and plants just dont thrive in those conditions. that is absolute, so i want to know what do i add to my seed raising mix, to get my seedlings to grow big and strong, just like the ones for sale at bunnings and other stores are in their tiny pots? i have tried seasol with no success, and bllood and bone, but as i figured, that wouldnt work with immature plants. at my disposeal i have large amounts of potassium or dipotassium or potassium ammonium phosphate, i dont remember i just know its the kind that burns your lawn if you use to much and makes it thrive unimaginably if you use just the right amount. i also have potassium nitrate, copper sulfate, dolomite and sulfur. Also i have compost which is ready for use too, plus as forementioned, i have perlite and vermaculite too. I want to know, what should i mix, to form a potting mix for young seedlings that immediately gives them a big boost and large form early on, so they are at least over 2 inches tall and strong enough to survive outdoors? ill note im mostly just growing chillis from seed
  24. i said Brunnings brand potting mix, plus there was also yates i think.
  25. its not just you, aside from blueberries rarely and strawberries, also rarely, everything they have there is their generic stock. i went to big W and they had a bigger selection of fruting trees and bushes than bunnings atm.
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