mold on cutings, can anyone help?

[XipeTotec]

Hi, am trying to root some trich cuttings(it hurts my wang ) at the moment by sitting upright on top of dry potting mix. A couple (only after a couple of days) seem to have developed a greeny/bluey splotchy mold on the bottom. I have taken them out to dry again.. but does anyone know what this is... will it effect the cacti.. can I keep rooting it, or will it become more of a problem. Please dont tell me to UTSE, as I did, and couldnt find a thread dealing with this particular issue, thanks for any help, regards, Shroomytoonos

Edited March 1, 2007 by shroomytoonos

[AndyAmine.]

Ive seen this on some of my cuttings before and it has not caused any real problems.

If you have them pulled up at the moment some fungacide dusted or lightly sprayed on the mould should do the trick and prevent it comming back. Copper Oxy would be the best bet...

[XipeTotec]

Ive seen this on some of my cuttings before and it has not caused any real problems.

If you have them pulled up at the moment some fungacide dusted or lightly sprayed on the mould should do the trick and prevent it comming back. Copper Oxy would be the best bet...

thanks andy, i almost forgive you already, ha... would you recommend putting it strait back onto potting mix?

Edited February 28, 2007 by shroomytoonos

[AndyAmine.]

Ahh, potting mix, that may be the main factor behind your mould, try rooting in perilte, CSS or washed river sand instead.

They keep nice and dry, have lots of airation and dry out quickly when you start watering them.

Once you see some roots, jst transfer it over to some cacti mix making sure to keep as much perlite hanging on the roots as you can.

Please dont drag personal issues from one thread to another, it has proven to be a major vector for flame wars in the passed..

[XipeTotec]

Ahh, potting mix, that may be the main factor behind your mould, try rooting in perilte, CSS or washed river sand instead.

They keep nice and dry, have lots of airation and dry out quickly when you start watering them.

Once you see some roots, jst transfer it over to some cacti mix making sure to keep as much perlite hanging on the roots as you can.

Please dont drag personal issues from one thread to another, it has proven to be a major vector for flame wars in the passed..

i wouldnt have thought the mix to be a problem... it has very good drainage... cutting is not buried, but only on the surface, which I have made sure is very dry for a few cm...

[apothecary]

If the bottom feels soft rather than corky then it may be best to do a fresh cut to clean flesh and dust with elemental sulphur.

[dqd]

If the bottom feels soft rather than corky then it may be best to do a fresh cut to clean flesh and dust with elemental sulphur.

seconded (works for me )

[AndyAmine.]

Indeed, I should have mentioned that.

[Gardener]

This is probably a dumb question but where do you buy elemental sulphur? Do most nurseries stock it?

I had a second major catastrophe with my doomed lophs when I put them outside for some fresh air and a bird slashed 3 of them open with its beak. Now rot is threatening to set in and I want to use some of this sulphur to stop it. (Am looking for a bird flying crooked, so I know who to blame.)

seconded (works for me )

[AndyAmine.]

you can get it from any garden store bud, sulpher, copper oxychloride or mancozeb will all work well.

If the lophies are getting really soft you will want to dust them not srpay them.,.

[Gardener]

Thanks Andy.

you can get it from any garden store bud, sulpher, copper oxychloride or mancozeb will all work well.

If the lophies are getting really soft you will want to dust them not srpay them.,.

[blangschpeer]

Nothing to do with mould here, but if you're getting a bit impatient waiting for your cactus to root try using some cutting powder to force it and just leave it suspended somewhere out of the way. it works best if you apply the powder on a fresh cut, just dust the rest of the "wound" with sulfur and in about 2-3 days you'll have roots forming.

[AndyAmine.]

Nothing to do with mould here, but if you're getting a bit impatient waiting for your cactus to root try using some cutting powder to force it and just leave it suspended somewhere out of the way. it works best if you apply the powder on a fresh cut, just dust the rest of the "wound" with sulfur and in about 2-3 days you'll have roots forming.

Have you actualy done this on cacti cuttings your self Blang?

Ive never seen any extra help from rooting powder on cacti but only tried a couple of times, I think everyone here would like to see some roots forming on thier cacti after only a few days!

[blangschpeer]

yeah, but when i did it I absolutely covered the cut. 2-3 days may have been a bit of an exageration, but it was definately within 1 week. Then again I was smoking a fair bit back then so what I thought was 2-3 days could of more likely been 2-3 trips outside to see my dealer .

Glad those days are past, I'll do it again now that I'm back in the land of the living and let you know

[Jesus On Peyote]

Hi, am trying to root some trich cuttings(it hurts my wang

Lmao

[XipeTotec]

Lmao

im glad someone appreciated that jesus!!

[reshroomED]

A bit slow to reply, but don't worry about any colour if the flesh below is still firm.

I frequently get (just looked for pics showing some, but couldn't find any) multiple funky colours on my trich cuts. Psychedelic greens, blues, pinks, yellows and everything in-between. Freaked me out at first, but now it's par for the course. I do find the colours to be richer/more prevalent during high humidity.

As for applying Mancozeb etc to exposed wounds on your wang, I'd advise extreme caution .

ed

Edited March 11, 2007 by reshroomED

[chilli]

I also often get moldy looking stuff on my cuts, but I've never done anything about it and it doesn't seem to matter. I suppose it might promote secondary infections, but I'm yet to experience this myself. Just make sure they are thorughly dried before you try to root them in soil, I usually just wait until some roots are popping through to be safe, which usually takes anywhere between a few weeks to a few months in my experience.