modern.shaman

I'm gonna go out and say that 100 mg/L is actually a very high concentration considering that IBA is usually used at 1-2 mg/L for rooting.

Be aware that this paper shows the effect of IBA when used in vitro the results may not be the same ex vivo.

Some of these cv. are actually hybrids and are likely sterile. I'll be crossing this lopho av with a desirable trait with a 'normal' cactus then cross the promising offspring and likely backcross if I can't find 2 offspring; with a few generations the trait should be stable.

Based on another article that I've read on micrografting and tissue cultures it does create chimera as mutant pointed out; successful growth of the tissues was around 20% in that article. Chimeras that we see photos of are most likely not formed using tissue cultures but by grafting countless numbers of cacti and having a random chimera appear. There are certain species of cacti that are more prone to creating chimera; ariocarpus and echinopsis being two favorable candidates.

I removed my seedlings at 3 months from sowing date to prevent them from being steam cooked. They are all doing well but my climate is always humid. Here is one of my many seedling trays.

It appears to be variegated

I've sown a lot of seeds this year and hope I can also get a crested aztekium and if I'm really lucky a variegated crested aztekium

Those 'cuzcoensis' look like bridgesii seedlings to me but I do agree that you would need to wait a year or more to be sure. I have given up on Koehres for my seeds and I haven't regretted it as I am getting better germination rates and an even cheaper price. Growing from seed is a risk of years wasted growing the wrong species so that's why you should always buy from recognized and trusted vendors.

I'm looking for slow growing seeds like Aztekium sp., Geohintonia sp., Pelecyphora sp., and others I'd always be very keen on Pseudolithos sp. seeds although I doubt anyone here has any.

According to the info that a vendor in the US has on two cultivars they are currently selling; Dekapai Suikan and Iboginkan are the result of hybrids. Dekapai Suikan; "This is Japanese nursery developed cultivar. Parentage has been linked to L. Fricii cv "Kikko"(Male plant) and L. Koehresii (Female plant)" Iboginkan; "This is Japanese nursery developed cultivar. Parentage is linked to L. williamsii var. "Weisse Bluete" (Male) and L. Fricii cv "Kikko" (Fem) Other cultivars are likely created thru years of breeding for desirable traits. There is a thread somewhere on the web were Kada shows pictures of some cultivars he was developing (PICTURES WERE NO LONGER AVAILABLE) he did so by crossing cacti that showed the traits he wanted more pronounced. This is also how Ariocarpus and Astrophytum cv. are created. I'm sure that some cacti have been stressed by different sources to cause mutations but the trait may not be stable or passed on and would require cloning. If you want cultivars plant a ton of seeds and grow them to adulthood then cross those that show ANY sign of abnormal growth repeat this with their offspring. After a few generations you can have a unique cultivar or at least duplicate an existing one. I remember a member on here crossed a few generations of lophophora to get the variegated trait.

I'd like some seeds as well.

I don't mean to side track your thread but who was it that 'possibly' crosses a cereus with a trichocereus? A idea of mine that hopefully comes to life in a few years is a cereus spiralis crossed with a trichocereus. I believe that would make an amazing cross if the spiral trait passes and the cactus are active. I've spread the few seeds I had to 3 members and I might give away a few seedlings next year. This project could be accelerated by a few years if someone would just buy a spiralis cuttings as I've seen those up for auction in the states recently. Evil Genius great idea on colored flowers for trichocereus. I believe someone on here posted a colored flower a while back or was it a feathered flower?... I could be mistaken.

There are LOTS of articles citings the alkaloids in the Tabernamontana genus some have been revisited in different years. Is there something specific your looking for or a specific species you want to know about?

I've read of people grafting after 2 weeks so it would have been possible but success rate is quite low due to the size. I grafted at 1 month albino seedlings but wouldn't make a habit of it due to the low rate of success. I'd take hellonasty's advice and wait a few months to have high success at grafting.

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0140196311001534

How many days have passed? I'd wait at least 2 weeks before giving up. I wouldn't sow less than 100 seeds as many seedlings die soon after germinating. Out of 100 seeds sown I would expects only 20+ seedlings would survive.

hostilis, they would work sown together and can still be distinguished even without areoles as the Blossfeldia seedlings are microscopic easily half the size of aztekium if not even smaller. They can both be kept in high humidity for up to 2 years but I wouldn't keep them that long personally maximum of a year but that's just a preference. Philocacti, as for grafting onto pereskiopsis I have had success grafting 2 ritteri seedlings that were around +-1 month old. I only grafted them this young because they were albino and they seem to have remained all white for about a month grafted now. They have grown very little but are plump and have taken. I lost 1 albino hintonii graft but I didn't use a clean blade so it was doomed from the start. For those interested in trying czech vendors be aware that they take much longer to send an invoice of the seeds for payment 2 months or more in some cases. After they send you an invoice they seed the seeds fairly quickly after you send the payment, usually within a few days. I personally don't mind waiting as I prefer the lower prices and the quality of the seeds have been great in my two fairly large purchases. I've also heard some stories of people not receiving the seeds that they purchased which can be a HUGE problem especially with slow growers but that isn't a common problem. Czech vendors are know to poach plants and seeds from the natural habitat. So keep that in mind if you want to be environmentally aware and not promote or support known poachers.

You should do fine with a colored lid with aztekium seeds as they require less light then other species. Be aware that its common for seeds to germinate quickly then just as quickly disappear. I'm currently growing aztekium seeds and am 3 months in. They are the easy seeds to grow just really small and slow growing. They start popping up in 5-7 days and keep sprouting randomly up to a month afterwards, but most will be up by the second week. Also keep the seeds in high humidity for 6 month+. You can remove them sooner but will likely lose many if removes sooner then 3 months. You can also keep them in humidity for a year or even 2 years to speed up their growth. I've also had mixed results with koehres and have decided not to use them anymore. I'm having great success with czech seeds and they are usually cheaper so I don't mind the slower shipping speed.

officinarum but I'm sure that the the same applies to automnalis. I'm a bit surprised by the amount of seeds per fruit can't wait till mine flower... I'm likely a few years away still. I wonder what age they bloom.

doxneed2c-me assuming they were moist the entire time they are duds and I would complain to WSS and they may resend seeds depending on how long ago you ordered. I have had mixed results from WSS and recently also had low germination from a batch of seeds. Heating pads are not necessary and may actually inhibit germination if temperature become too high or the soil dries out due to the bottom heat. Next time you attempt germinating seeds do not use heating pads unless very cold.

I don't think cold scarification would be needed for fresh seeds and if planted in the right time of the year. I put my seeds in cold water for 1 day than planted in outside during winter since I only have mild winters the temps were perfect. Night temps in the high 40's and day temp in the 60's. I had most of my seeds sprout after 2 weeks.

I've had this happen a few times when cutting some crests. I would just cut the crest smaller so there would be no air pocket between the scion and the stock... I'm not sure if it would take leaving the air pocket but I never tried. Usually happens with columnar crests probably due to fast growth, but I've also had it happen with a lopho crest and even regular cacti grafted onto pereskiopsis.

Looks like a bridgesii to me.