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The Corroboree

withdrawl clinic

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Posts posted by withdrawl clinic


  1. 18 hours ago, john said:

    Thanks for that. I will try again. My tree is not a rifat. It is the green veined leaf variety. I bought it from Torsten over 25 years ago and took a marcott with me when I moved. The tree is now so tall I need a fully extended mango-picker to reach the lowest branches. I have tried cutting around trunk buds closer to the ground but have not got any growth. That is why I need a smaller one.:lol:

    if you got it from tort, 25 years ago, than it is the rifat, a semi green variety.

     

    no, i have heard stories that, the seeds rifat produced, created a deep red veined variety!!?

    there are also reports of another deep red (almost going toward purple) strain in oz, this one has a different leaf shape compared to our rifat.

    some people think the "red" strains are more potent.

     

    and yes it's a fast grower, most of my trees died from lack of water, but the one close to the septic survived.

    it even survives mild frosts!!

     

    so john you got a rifat!


  2. On 01/05/2021 at 1:33 AM, Cimi said:

    I think I need to make a capillary bed with like sand and shit. Any tips?

     

    Fussy fuckers :angry:

    moderate your lingo topic starter, hehehe, no all is well...

     

    you blame the seeds!

    and used "name calling".

    but it's you who is the fussy fucker,

    because you are, expressing a strong opinon.

    without having,educated, youreselfe first!!

     

    further you gave hardly any info, regarding what you have tried, in the past to make them germinate.

     

    you got two options now, get shirty with me or to heed!

     

    cimi, i think i remeber you now, i think you are allright

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  3. let me side track a lil...

    when the law changed, and i could not sell or give away many, of my, bio active plants, i noticed as followes, and fellow saber's said the same.

    if you can't give your cacti and leafy plants the "love" that you want to give them they will, not grow well.

     

    i was traumatised by the blanket law, tort would have suffered even far more, an ozzie tv channel did run a viscious attack against him...:BANGHEAD2:

     

    time will tell that "we are the heros", the protectors of rare plants, and a paradime shift will happen.

    "we are the one protecting endagered plants and cacti, "we are the ones" who will be praised in the future, for our actions!

    long life to all ethnobots, on this planet!:wub:

    • Like 1

  4. 19 hours ago, john said:

    Thanks for the encouragement. Looks like the best time will be September this time. My tree finished fruiting and started flowering again immediately this year? It has only flowered in Dec / Jan before. I take it you insert 3 nodes below the propagation material?

    john, i noticed you filled out your climat field, thank you.

     

    if you have a rifat, it means this tree can flower, fruit and vege, at the same time at different parts of the tree.

    in oz they don't get regular seasonal rain, in many location, so flowering is when ever kratty thinks, she's able do do it!!

    if you live in the north of nt, than i would agree with all of your statements.

     

    edit:

    forgot your q regarding propagating.

    no, prepare a 3 or 4 node cutting and insert the bottom node only 5mm or so into the soil, use a humidety dome.

    many people posted heaps about this here, pls search for old topics (we know the search engine can be a pain in the butt, hehehe)


  5. @ saguaro, a wild anecdote indeed, sorry to say, i will not give more info. after all at times i make mistakes, and understand things wrong.

    but knowing i could be wrong makes me a better person.

     

    @hd, i like the prop up with rocks or bricks method, it reduces moisture issues, and save guards against, un for seen factors, for example i had roaming dogs, taking a bite into pedros once, haha.

     

    i filled the pots today, 2/3 with searls seed raising mix, it has a large ammount of crs added to it, by there manufactures.

    i will let it dry out more, befor planting the sections, the pots i choose are proly smaller than what other people would have choosen.

    again this will guard against moisture issues, better to be too dry than too wet, as we ethnobots say.

    only when it comes to coitus we reverse this rule.:)


  6. very good advice here, thx everybody!

     

    so i sum up.

     

    when cutting sections, one most likely lays them down flat, but i have callused them upright using sieves to rest them upon.

    in other words glaukus makes the point, that flat lying sections will try to form roots from the base, and if after 6 weeks or so, the cuttings are put upright, the root formation will be confused!!

     

    as rooting substrate i will use, dry searls seed raising mixture, and will like hd says, not even water once.

    i have a very bright decking, sheltered by shade cloth, it got good air flow, good indirect light (apart from save morning sun),

    and i walk by ther every day so, i am able to see, what happens. what i mean is, if you place cuttings far away from your daily routine, than roaming dogs or cats or strong wind, can knock the cuttings around. with the result of failing to form roots if the issue get's un noticed for a long time...

    • Like 3

  7. ok, if you have a tree than propagation will be very easy, but there is a seasonal issue attached to it.

     

    so there are many people who, have propagated this tree, via tissue culture.

    your method of leaf cutting is new to me so respect!

     

    i noticed that m speciosa, is a very easy 3 node cutting if you, use growth that has been produced in spring.

    in other words, the first flush of the season, makes the best, and easy to strike cuttings, no hormones needed.

    if on the other hand, you take cuttings at the end of summer, and even use advanced hormon techniques, your cutting are likely to never take root.

     

    semi hard to soft is what you aim for.

     

    kratom is an easy cutting!!

    • Like 1

  8. 22 hours ago, saguaro said:

    hey wc, I thought you were from NNSW, where cacti are legal ornamental plants . what law changes are you referring to? I'm in a warm area with no frost. 

     

    My opinion - you can. It would be a good idea to keep the substrate from being watered and keep humidity low to prevent rot, while keeping it in enough light to minimise etioliation. I would go for a high high mineral substrate, then transplanting into richer mix in spring when it has a few roots.

     

    Have you considered using rooting hormone dust on the cut? I have seen some great and fast results from that.

    we call this law the blanket law, there are post about it, on this site. it happend many years ago...

     

    yep, i will go with your advice!

    indoors at my location is worse than out doors.

    north facing window, as fyzygy recommands, i will not do, it would lead to etiolation growth.

     

    the sections could be kept cold and without light, and this would keep them in suspended animation.

     

    hormones, i never used on cacti, and stopped using for everything else as well, with one exeption.

    i know a smart lady, she was straight and loved men,

    she was told to use plant hormones in a nursery (on a large scale, inhaling the dust),

    and they made her a dyke against her will.

    this is a true story and i believe the lady when she told me!


  9. 1st q, you don't need to produce further plantlets, unless you have eager customers paying you for them.

    kratom, grows fast, and big, and one tree supplies you with all the needs.

     

    2nd q, i don't even have a mobile phone, but some experience with digital cameras.

    unless you can manualy, adjust the focus, or have auto settings, the thing is that many pics taken will be out of focus.

    i think this is where you think you can improofe. your camera tries to find focus but struggles doing so.

    one easy trick, we use here, to avoid this issue, is called hand modelling.

    hold the specimen in your open palm, and the auto focus will work better, because palm and plant with roots are of similar distance to the camera.

     

    your pic's show back round far away, so your camera doesn't know what to do, keep the back round in focus or the leave cutting.

    or put the specimen on a table...

    • Like 1

  10. On 27/05/2021 at 1:03 PM, Enjaytee said:

    I’d be interested to know too. Any luck? @Dozer

    yep same here!

     

    peoples, please give us updates. i, at times fell deflated if i prepare 5 or more letters pay for them, and people don't even say thank you.

    with easy to come by seeds, i don't worry as much, but iboga come on guys!

     

    i tried to screen the recipients of my iboga seeds, and i think i did well, and this entirely for the sake of iboga!!!

    i give a shit if you think i'm an ass, because i deny you iboga seeds.

    only few people have the skill level and set up to achive success with them.

     

    sidetrack, no iboga seeds will be offered at my iboga thread, i got none fruiting this year.

    my age, stopps me from taking more care of them.....

    • Like 3

  11. look, i destroyed most of my cacti because of the law changes years ago.

     

    one specimen i kept, is what some people here call a true blue.

    mine fell over by it's own weight (the bastard sneeked a tap root, through the decking into the soil, very smart on behalve of the cacti!!)

    and i had to cut it into sections to rescue it and avoid injury to me (fell over my decking).

    i am recovering from surgery, and can't to as much in my garden as i would like to...

     

    once the cut's are dried up and ready for planting, could i plant them and root them over winter (in other words right now) or wait till spring?

    i hate to plant callused sections which are old, they don't root as fast and as well, as perfectly timed ones.

    pls advice me, but only if you have experience about this subject, in the same climat zone as mine.

     

    if uou live in a cold climat don't respond with advice as it could be wrong, unless you have lived in my climat zone, and have moved somewhere else now.

     

    my feeling is to plant them out soon, and keep one section for spring and learn from this scenario.

    i get frosts some years over winter, but day time tems can be quite high even in winter.


  12. 21 hours ago, SayN said:

    yes, its the light refracting through the earths atmosphere that gives it the red.

     

    I took a photo expecting to be disappointed.

    bloodmoon.thumb.jpg.c833e595f72305983fec5aa272daf65d.jpg

    I wasn't disappointed.

     

    ahh meteors... been a while since i've seen one of those in the city.  or the milky way...

     

    (edit: my family just walked in raving about the extremely bright shooting star they'd just seen B))

    there is a chance they have seen the same fireball as me.

    you know, astronomy and sience started by people like us, and comminicating.

     

    meteors are not very far away from an observer, and i can imagen some middle eastern people (before the rise of islam, which i totaly respect)

    saying i saw this green fireball, to his friend 100 of kays away, i saw it too, he replies, but it was in another star sign.

    and astronomical trigonometry was born!!! :)


  13. i saw it well, and got even rewarded, observing two bright meteors as well.

     

    once the moon got darker the milky way came out, awesome.

     

    i said something withch i think is only partly true, in other words if you would have been on the moon whilst the lunar eclipse took place, you would have enjoyed a total solar eclipse caused by earth!!!!! i think no such was ever recorded by photos...

     

    the copper moon color is produced by light passing around the earth coming from the sun, me thinks.

    the old earth light theory has only merit if you see a very new moon.

     

     


  14. now, i belive that the collective concioicsness, is as well in regards to covid 19 jab's, a serious problem.

    allowe me to be clearer, if you are an ozzie, we would be reluctant to get the russian sputnik, or we say huawai is malicious.

     

    now a lot of people at this forum have learned to be very sientific, so they don't allow the current "zeitgeist" to cloud ther judgement.

    regardless it does still happen, and we have to fight the ignorance, of the people even if there opinon is held by the majorety.

     

    i dislike trucks a form of transport, but most people see them as advancement, i dont.

    canals and barges were the best form of transport, followed by trains. canals can transport good with the least ammount of pollution and most efficiant,

    but my opinon would be laughed at.

     

    thank god i will die sooner or later, i don't want to live in this world, because wher it is heading.

     

    btw, my ephedras are now 2m tall, hehehe, i never use the medicinaly, as the major seems weak or containig unwanted alkaloids.

     

    • Like 1

  15. 23 minutes ago, Glaukus said:

    As long as the berries are still bright red and not too shriveled or mank they usually germ ok with a bit of warmth.

    As soon as that bright red sheen turns darker, their viability drops to virtually zero.

    ok, i don't disagree with you.

    i've seen south americans plant yellow seeds.

    they germ faster than red.

    i try to make a point towards, if you recieve this seed plant it right away, don't say it can wait anoter day.

    • Like 2

  16. slight side track, but responding to dl, flu input.

    incog, once made me aware, of as followes.

    we don't get the flu because we had mononucleosis in our youth.

     

    would be nice to research if this "permantent increased immune responce" could maby help as well with covid.

     

    edit:

    personal sharing ( feel privileged to have tort, dl and hd to reply)

    i had a most wonderfull day today, i use alco only occasional NOW, and haven't smoked pot in 18 months.:wub::lol::rolleyes:

     

    late edit so u know and proly i gave him a link be 4

    arthur brown, i know him sice i was achild pls watch:

     

    • Like 1

  17. are we allowed to discuss this topic?

     

    many people are smarter than me here, so i ask which jab is the safest if you have a family record of blood clots and are 60 years of age.

    when i called the number to register for my jab, the phone operator hung up on me.

     

    i know of a case where a young person in my area got pfizer bio tek instead of astra.

    but my research could not copy this persons achivement.

    rumours are pfizer will become available, in given time.

    please help.

     

    you have to understand, statistics even from the goverment provided (1 dead in 200 000)would mean 100 australiens will die from clots.

    now go and don't belive the goverments statistics (and i don't) than many more will die.

     

    the goverment doesn't tell us what we need to do, if you have a family history of blood clots.

    edit;

    i had surgery 14 days ago, stapled heamorocopy (sorry i;m slightly dyslexic) were given fentanil, than endo. could not sleep for 8 day's endo kept me awake, and none of the medical support i recived believed me. please guys, never abuse those pain killers. today first day with little pain, stopped endo 5 days ago or so. it was my friend who helped me miracously and took my fear.

    on the 16 somebody vandalised my car....

     


  18. sorry for the ego, i'm a co inventor of the good vibes generator, not the inventor as some previous threads suggested.

     

    just liking the post above, is not the most you can do, sorry to say...

     

    freakazoid get well, good vibes will be sent to you!:wub:


  19. i got peres grafts, onto lophs and ario, which are healthy since 15 years.

     

    most importantly, don't repot with a potting mix which holds moisture much better, than the potting mix already used!!

    the worst, for many plants (catha ephedra & co) is a water line.

    water line is a term used, to describe, a soil which retains moisture, much better than another soil (in this case the soil the plant came with) as well in the pot, or even in the garden. i use searls seed rising mix, and like when it turns hydrophobic. most commercial potting mix is designed to, retain moisture, something you don't want for ario and co.

     

    saguaro, gave very good advice, regarding some issues!

    just water, once a 14 night and nothing much over winter, if the graft fails, cut the peres out, let the ario dry for weeks and than re root, onto searls seed rising mix, or cacti mix.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  20. i have posted 5 letters with 10 seeds each, enjoy.

    i have dried the seeds for maybe 3 weeks, but noticed the coating was still sticky, so to be save (and avoid any fungus issues) place the seeds (for storage) in the fridge, with zip bag opend.

    • Like 2

  21. you make a good point here, leaves might benefit from defatting, bark never needs to be defatted.

    it's a very sustainable source, yes but to be not an economic one.

     

    just give it time, be patient to grow for 7 years or so, before getting a haverest.

    use phalaris for a quick fix, but bark for real work.

    viridis is the best for aya, but bark, is less desirable for aya.

     

    i suspect there, is an issue with viridis, in the aqueous phase, and it doesn't like to move onto the solvent phase.

    would be interessting to do an experiment starting with b and not with an a....

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