What size pressure-cooker takes 1/2pint jars?

[incognito]

i bought one for 90 bucks and it has no psi indicator!!!have i been ripped????the focker just starts whistling when the water is hell boiling,swear its not a kettle!!!lolhow the funk do i know its being boiled at 15psi???

[Rev]

my hawkins doesnt have a psi indicator either just a weight on top

u have to find out from the manufacturer what its rated at

only the exxy ones have the u beaut gauges

The halobubbler is

1 x 2L glass jar with screw lid

3 x rubber o-rings used for homebrew fermentors

1 x aquarium air pump

tubing

air stone

thread tape

water 1l

table salt 60g

1. melt/drill a sufficiently size hole to place 2 o-rings in the jar lid

2. Run some tube through each hole. one should reach to the bottm of the jar and the other should end 3/4 of the way up the jar

3. Put air stone on the long piece

4. Put thread tape on the jar

5. Fill jar 1/2 full with the 60g/L salt solution

6. screw on lid

7. plug long tube to pump and insert freespace dangling one to the terrarium via a hole drilled and sealed with teh third o-ring

8. flick swith

mechanism

air is sucked through the pump , forced through a stone, through the water and into the enclosed headspace . this makes a postive pressure that escapes through the tube into the terrarium

the outgoing air has been filtered and humidified and remains fresh which means easy aeration and humidification in one

this system works very well

the salt part i just made up and havent tested but will be asap.

i figure that only fungi and bacteria who can tolerate water nearly twice as salty as the sea can handle this environment _ shark bay in WA can get this salty and some snapper still get by in it..

i had messed with h202 and antbacterials with varying success. this way i figure that itl be alive (maybe) and if so these organisms will maybe feed on or otherwise exclude species that get blown in and cant handle the salt

anyway thats the halobubbler

ill insert some pictures when i get time

[reshroomED]

Simple enough to retro-fit a guage (if required).

Buy suitable gauge.

Drill and tap thread to suit in cooker lid (assuming you know how to correctly tap a thread in soft metals).

Use a NON teflon-based thread sealant on gauge threads.

Screw in gauge.

Or take to local engineering mob and get them to do it. Couldn't see anyone charging more than $20 bucks or so.

I can probably come up with some cheap gauges to suit if anyone's interested.

ed

ps. Rev - If adding salt be aware of recrystallization around seals. Salt deposits will form and destroy any rubber over time. Perhaps try wiping them an inert oil.

[ 16. June 2005, 13:51: Message edited by: reshroomED ]

[Rev]

thanks

[2b]

smogs wrote:

 

quote:

---

casings are much easier and more robust

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Can som one point in the direction (or post) a good casing TEK ? Basicaly there are so many it becomes overwhelming trying to evluate them all (EG:grow cakes , case them whole , crumble them , inoculate staight in to the substrate/casing, etc...)

[gerbil]

code:

---

tube From pump

!V! Tube To Mush Chamber(positive)

!V! !^!

!V! LID !^!

<-!V!--------------!^!--->

< !V! Pos pressure !^! >

< !V! chamber >

<_!V!___H20level_________>

< !V! >

< !V! >

<Air stone >

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>

---

Is this the design rev? Time to get another mini greenhouse

Ah figured the wrap problem finally.

UBB Tags are the words CODE or TAB, TAB on the more recent versions of UBB from what i just read. CODE is what works on this version. Still, i think there are some other tags that do similar, lost somewhere in my mind years ago... Can't figure out how to change the font size for the text inside code tags though...hmm apo?...apu? thankyou come again.

[ 18. June 2005, 06:05: Message edited by: gerbil ]

[2b]

Were are ya Apo ?

[Rev]

yes thats it alright

will get a pic later