Cacti under light, inside project

[markcond]

Well the thing to consider is that all plants need a dark cycle in the day to rest so continous light is very unnatural.

H.

Thanks. I will set my timer straight away

[Inyan]

Yeah, even people need a few hours sleep every so often. Time for another catnap ayy? Seriously, you can look into the science of some things or you can just use common sense. Still, who knows, perhaps letting your cacti go on an extended vision quest every so often isn't a bad idea?

[markcond]

Yeah, even people need a few hours sleep every so often. Time for another catnap ayy? Seriously, you can look into the science of some things or you can just use common sense. Still, who knows, perhaps letting your cacti go on an extended vision quest every so often isn't a bad idea?

My timer is now set from 4am to 9pm. Thanks for the feedback folks.

[markcond]

I came across this forum which may be helpful to some.

24 hr

[mutant]

Markcond I think it's one of the most suitable threads for your question

I really wanted to ask the same questions markcond raised myself: about the light schedule.

When I first made the shelves they were set 16 hours light 8 hours darkness, now they are 21 light 3 hours darkness.... I think I will leave it like that, after the comments I read.

[Inyan]

Markcond, very nice information and thanks for posting it. A thread on initiating flower development might be nice as well as many cacti require a cold period etc. to flower. Is anyone up to this task?

[markcond]

Markcond, very nice information and thanks for posting it. A thread on initiating flower development might be nice as well as many cacti require a cold period etc. to flower. Is anyone up to this task?

I'll give it a go Inyan. I would really like some info on this matter as I would like to start harvesting

my own seeds

[Chiral]

shortening the light cycle is the traditional way to induce flowering under lights. 18hrs of light.. 6hrs of darkness...changed to 6 hrs of light and 18 hrs of darkness has... in my experience sent certain plants straight into flower within 2 weeks. Temperature probably has a role to play but not allways necessary.

H.

[mutant]

Well , some updates / questions:

I decided to slowly move one tricho-on-pere graft outside because the growth became thinner and thinner [also the colour more light green]... I supposed this was caused by not enough light by the single fluoro. Mind you this graft/scion came from a young t.pachanoi's smallish pup, not a seedling.... I hope I am doing the right thing... thing is weather is still a bit cold... hope it can do with 10 C [minimum temp at night these warm winter days, at a spot protected from winds, and with some direct morning/noon sun].

But the temp will fall again, I don't know what to choose, and not even know if pere will take that cold I sure dont wanna loose the graft - stalling is prefered than shitty growth... it won't be long till spring comes here.... We already have a small spring/early flowering outside these days... [alcyone days]

Some general questions:

Would cuttings like light so as they root? Or they prefer a middle situation? Or they prefer a more shady situation??

Mind you, I use the room with the fluoros for almost every cacti activity [rooting, graftin] , should I give light to the 'cuts to be rooted' ? The room is very warm but very dry, and so I am baffled on how the new grafts are negatively affected by little humidity.

In you opinion,

1. For how long should a new graft stay in the humidity tent?

2. Would it make sense to put under humidity tent, after the scion has stuck [say, after 4-5 days] ???

I also have an areaway, where temperature never falls under 15 C , it's got natural light, but I think It's still too shady, I am not sure how it compares with the fluoros inside, and since I am a newbiee, I don't know how to balance them... Do pere go into dormancy if left outside in 5-8 C??? that would be a solution....

I know, I am reaching for many issues, but any comment will be greatly welcomed

[markcond]

Hey Mutant, as a newbie myself I can't answers many of your question myself, but I'm glad you are asking as this sort of info would help me too. One thing I would stress though is to watch out you don't steam cook them. I recently lost quite a few seedlings. They are/were in round Chinese takeaway containers. I put them outside with the lids just slightly lifted. They were in shade most of the time and only got a bit of direct light in the morning. It was a hot day which had the effect of cooking my plants. So in future I'm going to progressively poke more holes in the lids. As for cuttings, I had some lying round for ages , wrapped in paper in a fairly dark room. They only started to show roots and new growth after I'd moved em outside for about 3-4 weeks. Most cacti as far as I can tell can handle pretty low temps, even if it does really slow em down. I think next winter I'll try a few inside under almost constant light and I'll wack a few in the fridge for a week or 2 to see if that helps with flowering.

[ddd]

I didn't read over the whole thread, but I have some experience with cacti under lights.

YOU WANT THE TIPS WITHIN 4 INCHES OF THE LIGHT. Ony the tips will grow you will not get any real girth. This growth is very useful for making cuttings and propagating a clone line. Just get blocks and put them under the pots until the tips are near the light. 2 shop lights will produce several feet/year.

I had 2 shop lights with a mix of bulbs and used tinfoil as a reflector. It worked great!

ddd