Acclimatising Cacti Seedlings Out Of Humidity

[SaBReT00tH]

Currently growing 3 month old:

- Hoodia Gordonii seedlings

- Loph Williamsii

- Loph Fricci

- Loph Gigantea

- Ariocarpus Fissuratus

- Ariocarpus lloydi

- Astrophytum Asterias superkerbato

- Astrophytum multipunctata Multipunctata

and am wondering how and when it's safe for me to permanently remove their lid of their tupperware container to stop humidity. Firstly particularly on a couple of the Ariocarpus Fissuratus I've noticed a few of them have turned kinda more on the red/pink side whilst most of them are a healthy green. I've heard that this is due to stress from lack of light or too much light or not enough nutrients but the others are healthy so I don't understand why only a few would suffer too much/not enough light and also after this had happened I tried a weak cacti fert mix and it doesn't seem to have done much in converting the red ones to green. Also, with my Hoodia Gordonii seedlings some of them seem to be a slight yellowish colour for some reason and 3 or 4 of them at the top seem to have developed a little bit of blackness (rot perhaps?, and that is my main reason for attempting to Acclimatise at least the Hoodias out of humidity so they're not around so much water/vapour and thus precenting any further decomposition due to rot. Is it OK to try and acclimatise these types of seedlings in particular the Hoodia in winter (15-20 degrees celcius average daytime here) or wait till summer?

Edited July 2, 2006 by SaBReT00tH

[Rev]

yeah just take off the lids

fast if there is rot

or incrementally

its easier to acclimatise in winetr than summer due to lower evap rate

check u PM's

[SaBReT00tH]

OK Thanks.

All 3 month old seedlings, here's some pics to explain my post:

Pic 1: Hoodia Gordonii seeds side shot, (note some seedlings turning a faint yellow/blackish kinda colour with a slight blackish tip (rot perhaps)

Pic 2: Hoodia Gordonii seeds again but more of a top shot

Pic 3: Shot of Ariocarpus Fissuratus seedlings (note, some very nice and green whilst others have turned red, just doesn't make sense)

Pic 4: Growing setup which seedlings are grown under twin fluro lights 24/7

[Rev]

just let the sand dry out then reseal the hoodia and keep warm till spring

dont even think about opening the arios

you can leave them sealed for up to a year with significant benefit

start feeding in spring with weak thrive or whatever

excuse the photos it dark

bu these were planted last october and i think they are only just ready to open now

even still id rather leave til at least november to open up and pot on

yours havent even got pubes yet

good thing abou arios though is that they are so much easier to grow than lophs

(retusus and fissuratus anyhow)

Planted 19th /10/ 05

A fissuratus

Obregonia denegrii

Edited July 3, 2006 by Rev

[SaBReT00tH]

Wow they look awesome. I noticed some of your A fissuratus were also red. The strange thing is most of these red ones seem to be increasing in size along with the other green ones, thus they don't seem dead. Strange! Yeah most of my A fissuratus have begun to grow small white 'pubes' as u call it, lol. Those Obregonia Donegrii of yours are looking good. Keen to swap a couple of Superkabutos, Lloydiis, or Astrophytum multipunctata sometime in the future Also, does 24/7 light make them grow twice as fast or can it cause their growth cycle to fuckup somehow?

Edited July 3, 2006 by SaBReT00tH

[Rev]

sunlight all the way mate

nothing compares to the sun - even when it means less light

it marks a qualitativel improvemnt in all plants i grow

as does oscillating temps and humidity

love to trade in future

these seedlings are just part of a pilot run

once i 'get it'

ill put down heaps

[teonanacatl]

loverly as always rev