2Deep2Handle

IMO....if its your only one...leave it on the pere....its growth may slow substancially, but if it does it will more than likely pup within a year(or flower and seed) of slowing right down. You then graft those pups onto pere. Then where u cut off the original pups should pup again. repeat process until you have a pere/loph army....then consider attempting to graft a few inch+ buttons to some larger stock, and rooting some(of the bigger ones or tiny ones). Its the process I started very slowly going though about 2 years ago with other mexican tap-roots.(Astrophytum, Copiapoa etc) soon i will have more cacti than i know what to do with, and will be able to experiment with several types of less tried/sucessful grafting etc. Grafting peres is easy....trichos not as much IMO, as suddenly pressure must be applied, and humidty is no longer your friend(more like super glue if grafting on angles ;) )

looks a bit like D. wrightii?

i had two grafts that i was entering in the comp, and i accidently knocked one off when it was about 6mm across.....put it slightly wedged into some 'DRY' soil for like a month, then started misting lightly once a week directly at base of it....enough to make it damp for a day or two max....it is now coming along nicely.....and has a nice little set of roots...and this was all coming into winter

Hmm i would be interested indeed.....and you wouldnt need to post...just jam it in the car when we finally meet up :D...

if volcanic cant help u out pm me and we can work something out Lok EDIT: This is what they look like

Yes please !

worth closer to $4 a bag? they seed like crazy.....are they Chlorantha(double yellow) or Fatuosa (double purple) pics will help your cause

Short answer- no its not medium answer - its the carbaryl's fault long answer - carbaryl is a nasty compound, especially to be used in tomato dust. I think only David Gray company still use it in tomato dust. Replace with one that has the copper and sulfur, and replaces the carbaryl with spinosad, an organic brilliant product that kills most bugs as well. (its the active in Yates 'success') I think Yates tomato dust is now spinosad, the copper oxy and sulfur. the copper is great for fungal infections, the sulfur fights bacterial infection, and the Spinosad kills bugs without damaging plants, and can still be smoked, eaten, insuffalated etc, without fear of evil contaminate. The copper and sulfur still have short withholding periods (especially for stone fruit), but are generally only 2-3 withholding limits. It may take slightly longer to be processed through the cambium of cacti though. I use it extensively(the dust) to treat my solanaceae family, specifically chilli, Brugmansia and Datura. The cutting hormone powders i only use on medium-hard wood cuttings, including hybrid tea roses. Never seen a need for hormone on cacti cuts.... I cut em with a relatively clean device....leave the cut 5 -14 days(depending on humidity), and then into dry substrate and dont touch again for 3 weeks where infrequent watering cna begin. if you must root in winter(i do all the time just cnt help myself), no wetness in substrate preferably coarse sand and little organic or LOSE CUTS

are all those lophs grafted at end of 2011? or are some older.....cause those pupping ones are off the chain if they are less than a year old

ow ps guys and girls if you want to grow some funky, exotic, lot of species, or just damn right stupidly hot, then flick me a pm and ill send a few varieties your way!

hey Jox chocs are hot, but the choc, whites and orange re all roughly the same....white(jellybean) 150-200k scov...choc 200-250k scov, orange hb 200-350 k scov, and red, particuly the red savinna can get from 300-550k scov

Hey Stillman I got Ipomea alba (massive white flowers, and huge white seeds) Ipomea tricolor? or violacea? heavenly BLue Ipomea tricolor? or violacea? milky way more than happy to send a few of each if ya want em.

6.5 k should be alright, but it is a vegitating spectrum, so you should be having the light on for atleast 18 hours a day and off for 6 to mimick summer, or get 2700-3500 k to replicate winter with 12 on 12 off. how many watts is that light? Keep in mind spiral CFL's are not as good as the u-ram(usually 3 straight horshoe t5 tubes). 48 watt (220watt equiv) will be enough, if you put a bit of mylar or panda (white plastic) in there to reflect all the light back on em. Keep the bulb as close to all plants as possible without actually touching it. Recomned a fan ovedr them for circulation

Thanks Bogfrog...got mine yesterday...very quick indeed....much appreciated

Yay! The genes of montrusa were very much carried across...looks like chances of monstrose are indeed increased when both parents are of the monstrose variety! Ill have to update my thread on my CPM i crossed with the help of Moses too. Splendid work Mutant

Ow yeah!

Man this is all awsome advice! Awsome write-up for a newbie...will help me get some of your exotic ones i got going....i assume wait unitil spring for em? Only gripe is i was under the impression that legumes fixated NITRGOGEN from the air into the soil?.....phosphorous too?

Thanks heaps mate got em 3 days ago....ill get urs off tomorrow!

i got a few Copiapoa hypogea barquitensis on peres coming along nicely atm....could prob trade one when we meet up :D.. just sown about 100 Turbini lophos too

nice shroomup......makes me more inclined to try in our tropical environment during winter then

Jox mate...might be time for a face to face catch up At mine im proposing.... i got a mad shaded area, that already grows all kinds of random mycilium, but im only just considering getting into it. EDIT: lol you too Goldtop if your a local. Im at the base of Beechmont (sought of)

Naja Naja...beautiful plant indeed, but we all still want a vid of you doing a jig in front of it? :D Good to hear they go off in the ground. Just planted a couple of reds and narrows out so we will see how they go.. Would love to get green.vienna white, and PH F1 ...willing to pay or trade if anyone has seed or cuts?

Alright! let the days become warmer and longer again!