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mcgrath111

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Posts posted by mcgrath111

  1. Posted

    13 hours ago, fyzygy said:

    Like, 20+ years? This past year was the first time it flowered, to the best of my knowledge. Foliage was lush and green, as there'd been higher than usual rainfall -- maybe that sends a signal to set seed? I think its typical reproductive strategy is to produce offsets and runners. In areas where it's cultivated as a cash crop, growers tend to plant 12" cuttings of their favourite trees, rather than germinate from seed. Or so I have read. 

     

    Ah cheers,  guess I'll be waiting a few more years haha 

  8. Posted

    On 21/06/2022 at 10:31 AM, False Peyote said:

    I normally only use a humidity dome for 48 hours after micrografts to keep the scions from getting dehydrated while the wounds heal, then I put the plants in the same conditions as the seedlings were growing in before the graft.

    Thanks False peyote, have you tried tbis technique for arios? 

    On 25/06/2022 at 2:17 AM, Quantum_Reality said:

    Have you tried stab grafting them?

    I was thinking that they might be too small to stab? But I'll have to look into this method further.

  11. Posted

    Hi all,

    I love to graft and grow mutants.

     

    However, my ario grafts have a 10-20% success rate, and I can't identify why.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/6t5KgOi

     

    I've tried two methods:

    1. If large enough, I put ario seedling onto fresh pere tip and hold onto pere with gladwrap and rubber band. (I've used parafilm before, yet, for me it is hard to align for arios. Normally about a week and then I remove elastic bands/cling film. (Is this too soon to remove for arios? Should it be held down longer?)

    2. Humidity chamber. I think this is the go to, yet I'm wondering if I have things too humid, which is causing rot etc.

     

    I've provided a photo link above, as the arios appear to be on the vascular bundle, yet many just die over a few weeks. I've trawled through loads of older posts such as peyofox and other grafting threads/ teos book etc. Yet I can figure out why my success rate is soo darn low!

    My blades are always brand new, so I don't think the issue is a sharp cut.

    I think it's something to do with the conditions post graft.

    Any suggestions or what has "uped" your graft game?

     

    Many thanks, 

    Mcgrathh

  14. Posted

    It depends on so many different factors.

    How, depends on he shape the button has taken. Big clusters generally need to be slowly separated and cut off with a sanitised blade. Removing stock on a trich is relatively easy, compared to removing from an established lw graft on pere. 

    As to when,

    - Why did you graft in the first place? Seeds? Pups?

    - Is the stock old/ no longer putting out desire growth. 

    - Has the button begun taking a form you don't like?

    If I had a big single head lw graft I would degraft, yet mine are all massive clusters and imo there would be no point degrafting, 

  16. Posted · Edited by El Presidente Hillbillios

    Agree with Boof. Ordered something from the same name (on reddit). All 3 things were bunk and unfit for microscopy. 

    • Thanks 1

  20. Posted

    On 19/02/2022 at 8:17 AM, fyzygy said:

    The orange slime is the one I've encountered most frequently around Melbourne, anywhere a San Pedro has been cut and then left to fend off more than a day or two of heavy rain. In larger specimens it doesn't seem to pose much of a threat, but in smaller cut sections (e.g. root stock) it has a tendency to dominate.

    Overcrowding in the greenhouse will promote plant pathogens. Sun and wind dry out exposed surfaces, helping the plant's natural immunity. But the graft needs high humidity those first few days. After 2 or 3 days under cling film I expose the graft to plenty of (indirect) UV light and ventilation, I don't keep them in a greenhouse. I don't usually apply fungicides to my grafts, though I dare say it wouldn't hurt. 

     

    Hey fyzygy,

    Thank you for your response, I realise looking at old posts I never responded.

    Are you saying you keep your grafts outside during winter (not indoors?)...how so pere grafts take that?

    Cheers,

  22. Posted

    Hi all,

     

    I have a fair few grafted lophs, and room in the greenhouse is tight. Last summer I had a big lw graft rot (orange rot I believe). Would this due to constant rain / cold temps or more likely a fungus has spread into the loph? (The stock was fine)

    Any people in Melbourne (or cool areas with high rainfall? that keep grafted lophs out in the elements? 

     

     Cheers,

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