modern.shaman

I also got the seeds today . This new line of seeds is quite interesting. Most interested in the '' x TPM and Lumberjackus x Sharxx Blue and have like 8 Psycho0 x N1 seeds gonna sow together. I know that flowering is determined by many factors; how long from seed does it take for a trichocereus to flower assuming no grafting? Would try planting in the ground as soon as large enough or using the largest container I can use. Sorry I know this is a bit off topic for this thread.

Do you have any pictures of the mother plant? 'azul'

My graft has been through hell but started to show some new growth on the smaller pup. The large body had black rot at the grow tip and has stalled for a few weeks. The new spine color seems similar to Pasacana which I first guessed terscheckii due to mass. Time will tell.

Most plants in cultivation have been obtained illegally at first. Most if not ALL plants native to Mexico is illegal as the Mexican government doesn't tend to authorize exporting native plants/seeds even for cultivation in Mexico. A. hintonii, Geohintonia Mexicana, Some Astrophytum and lopho localities are all obtained improperly and the only way to reduce this is by mass propagating from seed and spreading the seeds later. Essentially all CITES plants from Mexico is illegal. Now should you buy wild harvested plants... no and wild harvested seeds do harm the population but to a lesser extant than removing seed providers.

That doesn't really look monstrose to me....

A relatively new graft looks like it may be budding/flowering in the near future based on some fur starting to appear on the new growth... With pereskiopsis I tend to remove all new pups from the stock so that all the new growth goes to the scion. This stock is about 2+ years old and places in a 16 cm pot. I was gonna let this cutting grow to hopefully flower (would be cutting back after every 30 cm of new growth). The stock is 20-30 cm long (didn't measure) and the graft only has 2 areolas. After 2-3 weeks of growth on the scion it seemed to have stalled and a pup on the pereskiopsis has appeared. Now that I am seeing signs of a possible flower bud forming (I could be wrong) I am wondering if I should just leave the graft alone or would clipping off the new pup be the best choice. I usually clip the new pups when I want more growth to the scion but should I do the same if it is possibly flowering? Would clipping the pup cause too much growth to the scion causing it to not flower? I assume that the pereskiopsis was not far from flowering so the flowering chemicals transferred over? The scion was also on the brink of dying from rot and only the very tip of the cactus could be saved. The scion is FAR from naturally flowering so it may not be flowering.

Here is a mandragora officinarum coming out of summer dormancy. This other mandragora officinarum has been growing all year round and hopefully will flower this year. I'll post another photo another day of the roots. Temps have started staying below 90 F due to cloudy weather.

This may not be a flower fuzz but found it very strange that the graft stopped after growing so quickly and then dark hairs later appearing. This is a slow growing melted wax clone I got from a friend in Cali. He was wondering if it would grow quicker in FL; It took about a month to root and after another month of slow growth it started to rot from the base. I used the pereskiopsis I was gonna attempt to grow to flower as an emergency grafting stock. I may be thinking it is a flower bud due to seeing Philocacti and others posting fuzz on TBMCs. So the question is should I remove that new pup on the stock or just leave it alone. The stock was starting to pup before the scion stopped growing. I usually remove the pups to promote faster growth but am wondering if removing it will stop the bud forming or maybe it will accelerate development?

Will need to wait till tomorrow I guess.

Why are there not many people with N1xTPQC? Was there few seeds?

I think that temperature is what causes the plant to go dormant and not the photoperiod. I have limited experience growing this plant though. I was able to keep 1 of my Mandragora officinarum awake throught the summer by keeping it indoors and not letting temps go past mid-80's F. I think as soon as temps reach 90F+ the plant will go dormant. I tend to water every 2 weeks when awake and 3-4 weeks when dormant. Ps... are you asking about the natural environment conditions?

It is still very early so I am a little hopeful that there is atleast some Scop genetics in these seeds but doesn't look good.

Damn I had a similar looking Koehres Scop that I grafted as well. I got my seeds directly from koehres. I agree looks more like a terscheckii. Was hoping it was just a single seed or packet. This is the last straw for me and I'll never order from koehres again. http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40272&p=508478 Will probably graft another seedling next week since I'm not gonna just dump my 500+ seedlings. It has black rot/weeping? on the top growth but is pushing through. Very similar looking to that picture posted when it was starting out.

Pilocereus sp. You can tell by the 'fur' on the spines.

When mass sowing bridgesii seeds I had a seedling that seemed to be albino/variegated so naturally I grafted the seedling onto a pereskiopsis. The seedling very slowly grew what appeard to be a 'monstrose' head that was spineless followed by another to make a penis head. However after a few months of stalling a single spine appeared and a few weeks later it pupped. The problem is that the pup seemed to have dried out and 'died' back. I've now had this graft for about 2 years now and it has only lead to frustration waiting for it to pup again. Recently upsized the pot and placed it outside where temps are high. It seems that a new pup is starting to grow from the old 'dead' pup. I'm not sure if anyone has ever encountered this problem with their grafts before but any help would be appreciated. It doesn't need to be with trichocereus but any other species. I've considered putting the graft in high humidity but believe it will just lead to rot. The graft doesn't get full sunlight and has ample water so I may just wish for the best with this pup.

Berengar I think you are right about it possibly being to defective and is just dying. The pup grew about 2 mm and stalled and seems to be drying out again. I'll keep this going but don't expect anything to come from it.

Here is my Kohres Scopulicola graft; originally I thought it was a crest but turned out double headed. After the graft stalled for a few weeks it blew up and now is starting to look like a terscheckii based on the spines and girth I usually have on pereskiopsis. I'll keep it growing regardless but hope there is atleast some scopulicola genetics in there.

Anyone have an update on koehres scop seeds? It is still too early to tell for sure and it was just 1 graft but mine looks like it may be terscheckii or a terscheckii cross. I'll post a picture in the future but so far looks nothing like a scop.

Does anyone by any chance still have these seeds? If in the US a cutting or seedlings would also be nice. We can discuss trade over pm.

This seedling has been repotted deeper before however I didn't want to repot too deep due to crested pup. I fear that burying the crested section will result in rot. There is about half inch of pumice between crest and soil line. I have been watering this seedling much more often than I usually do. I was wondering if there was a way to support the seedlings base long term rather than burying deeper. Would providing a support to keep the seedling growing upright be a good idea; the older the cactus gets the stronger/thicker the base/wood will become? Or would removing the crested section and burying the seedling deeper be better advised? This seedling is more than 2 years old and different grafting stocks show different spine traits. Still quite young for me to judge but it seem to be a hybrid between bridgesii and peruvianus? Grown from generic bridgesii seeds. Here it is 9 months ago... Now I'm wishing I kept the lower pups to help support the seedling. Less frequent watering and high sunlight seemed to cause longer spines when younger hope those long spines return in the future.

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Dragon Fruit stock seems to promote more flowering in most scions and they are more water tolerant than other stocks. Still a little too early to call it a WIN but here is an aztekium ritteri degraft that is rooting :D The center one looks to be rooting Here are the possible roots; Not the old stock rerooting from the center (pereskiopsis) This is after 3-4 months Most of my previous attempts just ends up with the aztekium drying out. Just a few more grafts from seed Aztekium ritteri crest Aztekium ritteri with hidden pereskiopsis stock (rerooted after cutting back; not sure if it will rot or not)

I believe it is pach x pach. I have a few growing myself think I also have a tiny 3 header of that are another pach x pach.

I suspect around 1 inch in diameter grafted; I'll update with a photo when mine bloom.

LOL Zelly it wasn't your plant I was talking about but thought it wasn't seen before by others. Great that this plant is actually in the hands of a few people already. It looks quite nice and is indeed a nice addition to some collections.