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mindperformer

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Posts posted by mindperformer

  2. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    My new Ambergris- accord (also contains Ambroxane from Labdanum, Tobacco and clary sage, and the natural Ambergris- substitute Canada Balsam):

    ...for 15ml total (indicated are fraction numbers):

    1/4 Civet-Musk-accord tincture (my own, see at the bottom)

    1/4 Sea accord (Kombu alga tincture with a bit violet leaf and Limnophila)

    2/12 Labdanum tincture

    1/12 Tobacco tincture (organic)

    1/12 Amber (tincture from roasted fossil amber)

    <1/12 Benzoe tincture (Laos)

    <1/12 Tolu balm tincture

    1 big rod wetting Kanada balm (absolute)

    1 smaller rod wetting Clary sage oil

    1 drop Iso E Super (smells a bit like Ambergris, more woody musk and blends all components, while also giving profile)

    1 needle wetting Sandal wood oil (New Caledonia)

    1 needle wetting Oak moss absolute

    2 needle wettings Patchouli oil

    1 needle wetting Vetiver oil

    The Civet-Musk-accord (15ml):

    1/2 Boxwood leaf tincture (liquid paraffin-to-alcohol- enfleurage from fresh leaves, smells slightly like cat pee, like Civet)

    1/8 Labdanum tincture

    1/8 Tobacco tincture (organic)

    1/8 Angelica dahurica root tincture (for sweet musk)

    1/8 Abelmoschus moschatus seed tincture (classical musk)

    8 drops AMT (or dimitri) tincture (indole-, skatole-like natural slightly fecal animalic smelling in the right concentration)

    2 drops Iso E Super

    1-2 drops Costus (Saussurea lappa root tincture)

    2 rod wettings Spikenard oil

    1 rod wetting Patchouli oil

    1 needle wetting Jasmine absolute

    be careful with Abelmoschus and Costus!

  4. Posted

    ...we never rank first with an idea. The internet indicated once again, there were many other people with the same thought...

    First I thought refined coconut-oil is perfect for the rarely described "scented smoke enfleurage" (to catch incense smoke), now I found a description on the internet, how to make it, almost exactly like I did: https://sites.google.com/site/perfumerecipes/tincture-your-own-smoke-with-frankincense

    Yesterday I thought on using my new Vanuatu-Kava- extraction also for the perfumes, today I saw this product from a seller for essential oils and absolutes: http://www.edenbotanicals.com/products/essential-oils-pure-therapeutic-grade/essential-oils-k-l/kava-kava-co2.html

  6. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    I like the olibanum tinctures from

    Olibanum Omani (high quality, also for chewing): Boswellia sacra syn. carterii

    Olibanum Maidi (high quality, also for chewing): Boswellia frereana

    Olibanum Eritrea: Boswellia papyrifera

    The cembranoid diterpene Incensol acetate was shown to have antidepressant and anxiolytic effects:

    its better to translate the german wiki, because there are more infos: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incensol

    So Boswellia papyrifera is the main psychoactive species.

    Olibanum Eritrea: Boswellia papyrifera

    13ztykk.jpg

  8. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    fungi are responsible in the formation of Oud in Agarwood,

    Oak moss is in fact a lichen and as such a symbiosis of alga and fungi

    I will make an absolute from cepe in the near future

    fungi-like odor is also present in the scent of Poliomintha longiflora and especially Rungia klossii

  11. Posted

    some odors are too sensitive to extract them directly like lily, violet flower, the "green" from boxwood, aldehydes from cilantro and many flowers.

    these can be catched by enfleurage: put the flowers or leaves in nautral (clarified coconut-) fat or liquid paraffin and let them sit for at least one week, then strain and extract the fat with 80% alcohol.

    This was also the only method to extract the wonderful complex scent of Chinese Glory Bower (Clerodendrum philippinum), which has its own thread

    • Like 1

  13. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    you need at least 75% alcohol, better 80-90%

    I don't use denaturated alcohol, although it would be cheaper because you don't pay the alco-tax for it, but it often contains 2-Methyl-2,4-pentanediol

    Look for 80% Corn/grain, it is more neutral and also cheaper than spirit of wine,

    here you get 1 litre corn for €16 in the super market

    what do you want to do with the solution?

    for perfumes you only need a very small amount as fixative

    it combines well with musk- notes like from Abelmoschus moschatus- seeds and Angelica dahurica- root

    you could add some freshness and a kind of floral waxy smell with cilantro-aldehydes (I extracted them with liquid paraffin from fresh coriander leaves, then strained, extracted with 80% alcohol, separated with a dropping bottle and filtrated the alcohol.

    the scent of the sea can also be underlined with Violet leaf- extracts (fresh watery, cucumber-like),

    Limnophila aromatica extracts (smells watery like melon, lemony fresh and like the air after a thunderstorm)

    and kombu seaweed extracts (a brown alga with a better scent than nori).

    The scent of the sea on a beach is caused by Dimethyl sulfide from degrading organic compounds and Dictyopterene, a pheromone in brown alga.

    I tried to extract the scent of the sea from many things, including pieces of (dead) corals, greenshell mussel shells (also an enfleurage from the cooking water), nori alga and many more, but the best raw material seemed to be Kombu alga.

    I chopped the kombu-stripes (like leather) and steamed them in a sieve over boiling water, to swell up a bit. Then I extracted them for a few days with 80% alcohol, strained and put the alcohol aside. Then cooked the alga with a very small amount of water, strained and combined the water- and alcohol extracts, then filtrate the solution, which should have at least 75% alcohol.

    How would you describe the scent exactly? is it more powdery, or amber-resin-like, or like musk?

    On some site the scent of the real thing is described as having labdanum and clary sage- notes in it, which fits exactly to the phytochemical studies, which found Ambroxan in Labdanum and Clary sage.

    quote from this site:

    http://www.ambergristincture.com/perfumers-perspective.php

    They have, for example, been told that the sure sign of the use of Ambergris in a perfume is a spicy, musky or amber base note. This of course, is far from the truth.

    I have purchased bottle after bottle of oils claiming to be "real Ambergris oil" only to receive something powdery, sweet or balsamic, smelling of Benzoin, Vanilla, and Labdanum or else having a herbal note from Clary Sage and similar oils.

    • Like 1

  14. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    I have made lotus wine with blue lotus petals and sweet wine, like the egyptians and had a very clear and slightly euphoric mellow experience, and years ago a friend gave me vodka with the oil in it, which was more intense

    I have never tried to extract the flower petals with perfumers alcohol because you don't get the scent by this way, it is more bitter and much less flowery than the oil, as the teas were, I remember

    In the Egyptians collection of the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna you can see many steles and paintings with blue lotus flowers on it

  15. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    Mitti attar is one that intrigues me....distillation of baked earth.

    Rhus khus is intensely transporting...so much more balanced and whole than straight vetiver oil.

    It is interesting that an agarwood industry is building up in Western Australia. I think the first harvests/distillations will be next year, along with Indian sandalwood...the Santalum spicatum industry has been producing oil for many years, but it is not worth comparing the two oils. It will be nice to have some unadulterated oils back on the market.

    Mitti Attar is really interesting, I didn't hear from it before

    I have made something like that with peat, which I baked it for long time until it got black, then extracted the phenols with 80% alcohol. is has kind of whiskey smell (the malt is also smoked with peat)

    • Like 1

  16. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    Do you find any of these to be psychoactive as perfumes, most likely transdermally?

    Sassafras was really stimulating and euphoric when inhalating from the phial, Oud, Ratrani and others have mellowing effects

    Lavender is kind of psychoactive sedative

    Cumarine aka Tonka bean also has some antidepressant effects, but inhaling too much gets me uncomfortable.

    As perfume, many essential oils do emit their compounds, sometimes this cloud gives instant and short psychoactive effects, only by inhaling much of it after a few pumps

    ...but as we know there are not only toxic synthetics but also many natural allergenic or otherwise dangerous (toxic when overdosed) compounds, so when using critical plants, take care not inhaling too much

    • Like 1

  20. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    another substitute:
    Cetalox. ≥96%. Odor: An extremely powerful and elegant amber note.
    (which to my impression also pure liquid Canada balsam has)

    also good descriptions on the odor of Ambrox DL and Ambroxan:
    http://www.thescentinel.com/post/7765948055/raw-materials-ambroxan
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/231447-Ambrox-Ambroxan

    All in all, the scent of aged Ambergris is described as sweet ambery, woody, tobacco, earthy scent with a hint of Isopropanol, but without the chemical component.

    I'm experimenting with adding fossil amber tincture and a hint of kombu alga to the Canada balsam-Tobacco-Labdanum-mix, also finding the perfect amounts.

  21. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    gorgeous! planthelper

    how would you describe the smell? Does it have manure-oceanic, rough, animalic odor?

    "Adrienne: It is always difficult to accurately provide a description of the fragrance of ambergris. Every piece can be different and every person can react differently to the fragrance"

    For all the others who don't have the real thing, but need a perfect fixative or the fecal-oceanic smell:

    First of all I must say that perfumery was and is often very traditional, shrouded-in-mystery, connected with intimate erotic and searching for exotic materials (in the past: mostly naturals).

    In perfumery the fresh, black ambergis can't be used, but only the white/ grey Ambergris (aged 20-30 years on the ocean), which has some sweetness.

    As substitute for the great fixative qualities of Ambergris, I use Canada balsam:
    http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2012/04/120405075357.htm

    ...with Ambroxan (which occurs naturally in Ambergris) the scent was synthetically recreated.

    Very interesting links:

    http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils01/EssentiaOils01.htm#Amber

    http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Ambergris-524.html

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambroxan

    Ambroxan is also contained in the absolute of Tobacco, Clary wort and in Labdanum (Cistus labdaniferus), which I often use as fixative.

    Flavor of Ambroxan: woody, cedar wood, floral, leather−like, slightly tobacco note and dry musk−like

    ...so we also have this notes in the substitutes:
    Canada balsam has cedar-woody-balsamic notes

    Tobacco and Labdanum have leather-like, floral notes and

    Labdanum also gives the dry musk

    It is possible to buy Ambergris from New Zealand, because there are more findings:
    http://www.ambergris.co.nz/buy.htm

  22. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    thanks whitewind

    a narcotic, but at the same time time clearing perfume is:

    ...for a total of 20ml, with 80% alcohol

    1 drop Kaempferia galanga oil as headnote

    1 drop Ratrani (Cestrum nocturnum flower absolute)

    5ml Lemon myrtle tincture for roundness and an antidepressant headnote

    1ml Alepidea amatymbica- root tincture

    5ml Ambrette seeds tincture

    1 rod wetting Jasmine absolute

    1 rod wetting Oud oil

    1 rod wetting Sassafras oil

    1 rod wetting Tuberose absolute

    very small amount Indole or simple Indole-alkaloids

    1 rod wetting Canada balsam

    a few drops Iso E Super

  25. Posted · Edited by mindperformer

    one of the greatest challenges was to make a perfume with the odor of the sea:

    ...it has a heart of Kombu alga and Limnophila aromatica and violet leaf with accents of Palmarosa, Nana mint, Bergamotte and Canada balsam

    also the agarwood scented smoke enfleurage was complicated (it is made with other incense traditionally in Sudan). The Agar was burned on charcoal under a big glass, with liquid coconut fat at the bottom. The fat was collected and extracted with 80% alcohol.

    One of my recipes for simple masculine Aftershave (on 200ml):

    Satyr:

    6 drops Lemon basil oil

    4 drops Clary wort oil

    2 drops Oakmoss absolute

    2 drops Spikenard oil

    2 drops Vetiver oil

    1 drop Galbanum oil

    8 drops Cedar oil

    2 drops Rosemary oil

    2 drops Lavender oil

    4 drops Bergamotte oil

    Rainforest- perfume (for 20ml):

    2 drops Patchouli oil, old

    3 drops Oakmoss absolute

    1 drop Lavender oil

    1 drop Cembra pine

    1 rod wetting Neroli oil

    1 rod wetting Palmarosa oil

    1 rod wetting Rosemary oil

    1 rod wetting Vetiver oil

    2,5ml Kandea (Gabon, Okoumé)- tincture

    10ml Cologne mint tincture

    2ml Nashia inaguensis tincture

    1ml Tonka bean tincture

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