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L. williamsii v. caespitosa in bad shape. Please Help!!?!

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IM000173.jpg

I acquired this plant about a month and a half ago. Since then it's been in a 30%sand 70%potting soil mix. I think I must have watered it too much. Only about once every week or two.

Is there anything I can do to salvage it? Dry it out and replant? Make some amputations, let heal and replant? Any ideas what went wrong?

The root didn't seem to 'activate' at all. In fact, it was fairly dry when I pulled it up with only the affected part moist.

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Definitely too much water.

I've been watering my Lophophora about once every 8-10 weeks during the cold months, and the 2 of them are tearing along!

I'd clean the cactus up, cut off any soft, spongy bits, or anything obviously rotting. Then, re-pot in 90% course,sharp sand, 10% organic matter. Sterilise the soil in the oven @ 200C for about an hour, first.

Once re-potted in this dry, clean sand. Just leave it for a month or so before you even think about watering it, in a nice, dry, warm spot.

Light isn't really important right now, just warmth and dryness.

Hope that helps save him. :)

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eewwww....sick lookin`

you could possibly salvage this by grafting the top section, as long as the core has not rotted.

also, that elongated, almost columnar growth probably means it wasn't getting enough light where it was.

the rot looks like it was caused by poor drainage. i would increase the sand content by quite a bit.

some one here may have a better idea but i would leave it bare rooted long enough for the mid section to dry out. When repotting, only have the roots (bottom 3rd of the plant) covered by the soil. top the rest of the pot up with a free draining pebble mix (0.5-1 cm pebble size). the pebbles at the top will allow the water to drain down to the roots and keep the rest of the plant mostly dry, avoiding further rot. remember not to water for at least a week (maybe more) after repotting.

hope he pulls through...

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amputate - let dry and hope the rot did not set itself in the part that you are trying to salvage.

allow the bottom part to dry out good before replanting - replant in CSS < see shaman australis CSS recipy

if plant dies either get Shaman Australis seeds and start over or see if there is someone that is willing to part with a lophop button to ease your loss a bit.

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amputate

cut nice and clean asap.

cutt.jpg

cut and graph to a new plant root stock.

take the base and set in a light soil heavy on sharp cut sand, some peat or cior.

and cross your fingers.

and try water from the bottom up from now on....

I'm willing to bet you're using far too rich a soil.

[ 02. September 2005, 03:37: Message edited by: Flip ]

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Thanks for the advice folks! I tried to let it dry out, but it started to mould so I had to do some surgery. I did exactly what you suggested Flip the day before you posted, but thanks. I'm still letting the root dry out a bit more before I plant it and I cut a my Myrtillocactus in half and put the loph top on it. The loph had a tiny bit of brown at the core. I really hope it takes. This is my first graph. Also, re-planting the top half of the Myrt will be a good experience for when I eventally obtain some Trich cuttings.

I'll post again when I know if hte graft took or not.

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The real danger with bacterial or fungal rot

is that these plants are mostly water

attempting to dry them out really do not work once the infection is past the skin.

all you're doing is weakening the plant.

brown discoloration is not a good sign.

once the infection makes it to the core of the plant

it can travel easily the length of the plant.

I hope I'm wrong... but it doesn't look good for that graft.

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I agree with Flip's cuts!

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BTW the thought occured to me that that is not how you want your penis to look like.

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you might still get away with areole grafts!

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Aereole Grafts? Tell me more!

You folks are right, the graft probably isn't going to take. There is discolouration on the rootstock now where the scion has lifted a bit around one edge. The center of the loph looks like it's sinking down. I'll wait and see it through to success or failure. Expensive lessons learned.

So for future reference, does an aereole graft require the cutting to have a piece of the central 'ring' still attached or just the areole and some flesh? Sounds like it might be something to try with a Pereskiopsis rootstock (having such a small diameter and all). Very efficient.

I understand that it wouldn't work in this case because the infection was too widespread, but would an antibiotic ointment aid in healing of a graft?

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google it

also UTSE and take a look over at the nook

theres impressive things about with non standard grafting methods

yes pereskiopsis can be used here but so can trich and myrtillocactus

ill admit my areole grafts havent worked yet but my exprimhts have been few and under duress

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I once bought a lophophora which looked exactly the way this one looks. Maybe you´ll have to stay closer to the natural growth conditions. I wouldn´t water this one at all during the next months. It is likely that you unfortunately might not be able to safe it anymore. I vote for amputation! Good Luck!

[ 06. September 2005, 13:33: Message edited by: Evil Genius ]

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