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DualWieldRake

Cheap performance (flexible) indoor growing setup

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Hi all,

 

I have this plan for a growing setup for indoors.

I'm trying to do it cheap while keeping flexibility and maintenance and durability at an acceptable level.

 

Thought i'd share it here, maybe some of you can find weak points, improvements or critical mistake in my plan.

 

First of all my main reason for this is the salt deposits in my plant pots.

I've tested my tapwater ph and it's atleast 8. And it's leaving white residue behind on frequent evaporation.

 

Even when i will switch to rainwater (probably unfamiliar to most here, but something i'm fortunate to experience on average every day), with all the nutes i'm trying to pump into my plants i expect they gonna have a surplus of something.

 

Naturaly i envisioned drainage.
 

So here is my idea;

 

Using plastic crates conforming to 'Euronorm' dimensions/specs so they will fit on eachother if i want them to. (I can find these new and used)

Dimensions of these are for exampl 300x400 and 400x600 mm, and they stack.

 

The top crate being a low one of the open type to allow drainage.

Below it another low one of the closed type with a hole drilled in the center, and a nozzle glued onto it (http://www.pattex.nl/nl/producten/secondelijmen/secondelijm-plastics.html)

And below these a crate with a opening created to allow for a jerrycan to fit trough collecting the runoff.

 

All rested on top of a 'furniture mover'/plank with wheels

 

This may look akward inside of your home, however you can put up plates of cheap wood decorated as like your wall covering to make it look awesome.

 

38-EF64-07-T-a.thumb.jpg.bd2f01e80b9858b38e2b3b7b404db3ff.jpg

9230gb-aa.thumb.jpg.628c98dee039051e790578de403de262.jpg

This will have a nozzle glued onto the hole drilled in the center

38-EC64-32-S-a.thumb.jpg.8cb96a4e173e63b1027388613c410c72.jpg

Cut a part of this to insert;

schoonmaakazijn5l.thumb.jpg.1a30fe64ce7d3ef0d5275c9c857d6513.jpg

 

23516348.thumb.jpg.67a00f7c01790b4205a43211158b6040.jpg

 

38-EF64-07-T-a.thumb.jpg.bd2f01e80b9858b38e2b3b7b404db3ff.jpg

9230gb-aa.thumb.jpg.628c98dee039051e790578de403de262.jpg

38-EC64-32-S-a.thumb.jpg.8cb96a4e173e63b1027388613c410c72.jpg

schoonmaakazijn5l.thumb.jpg.1a30fe64ce7d3ef0d5275c9c857d6513.jpg

23516348.thumb.jpg.67a00f7c01790b4205a43211158b6040.jpg

38-EF64-07-T-a.thumb.jpg.bd2f01e80b9858b38e2b3b7b404db3ff.jpg

9230gb-aa.thumb.jpg.628c98dee039051e790578de403de262.jpg

38-EC64-32-S-a.thumb.jpg.8cb96a4e173e63b1027388613c410c72.jpg

schoonmaakazijn5l.thumb.jpg.1a30fe64ce7d3ef0d5275c9c857d6513.jpg

23516348.thumb.jpg.67a00f7c01790b4205a43211158b6040.jpg

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are you in brisbane i have some goodies i can spare you to get you started after 15 years of working in the hydro industry 

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also get some ph down to lower your water and some litmus drops keep your water at 6 you will notice that it always wants to climb

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I'm from the netherlands (europe) m8

 

For PH down i've been using battery acid, it does leave some residu behind still, but with good PH i guess (according to pond test kit i use)

i've read about this residue not sure about the details atm, something about a combination with the tap water minerals

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use phosphoric acid  as its the industry standard 

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