whitewind Posted March 15, 2013 I was wondering, is Maté preparation as simple as drying the leaves then grinding them fine before use? My Maté trees are a bit top heavy after being on the balcony for too long and I need to trim them back but didn't want to lose the harvest! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) I am pretty sure the leaves get heat treated right away after picking, so they stay nice and deep green. the mate I saw in shops, does get broken down, but is not grinded to a fine material. Edited March 15, 2013 by planthelper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted March 15, 2013 Hey WW, after my initial research (bought on by receiving a mate' plant ;P) was that the plants need to be of 3-5 years to get the stimulation effect when drunk...? I also read various techniques of drying and curing as PH suggested Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whitewind Posted March 15, 2013 Heat treated? So dried in an oven, I guess. My plants aren't that old, maybe 3 years, but they have been restricted too so maybe the leaves don't have the goodies in. I might do an experiment anyway, it will give me practice at least for when I try the real thing! I do have a metal Maté straw somewhere, but it might take some time to dig it out as my stuff is scattered over 2 suburbs (again). I really want a couple of these in the ground somewhere safe, perhaps one in Sydney and one in the Illawarra, heh? I have cuttings to spare.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
in_spirit Posted March 15, 2013 Hey is that an ofer whitewind will mate grow from a cutting?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 15, 2013 mate is not an easy cutting, but doable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted March 15, 2013 Well mine got quite burnt from 12 hours on an overcast day out in the open so I'm assuming the filtered light spots are favourable. I've also read wild plants harvested in filtered light environments fetch a much much higher market price as opposed to mass commercial plantings. It is said, the harvest is less, but more desirable (quality vs quantity) But yeh, your offer is very doable mate, I can even specially prepare a bed over winter if we seem fit. A mate straw will cost you $3 from ya Syrian grocer, just enjoy the new amazing environment you got bruv!!! D00d Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
endorfinder Posted March 16, 2013 I have a young plant, but I'm down to try striking a cutting before things cool down any more if the offer's open, ww Can offer mate seed when it arrives soon, presuming AQIS don't mess with my shizzle. If what you say about alks is true, d00d, I'd be curious to know whether a rooted cutting from a 5yo plant would produce useful product compared to a similar size seed grown plant? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zaka Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) I am pretty sure the leaves get heat treated right away after picking, so they stay nice and deep green. the mate I saw in shops, does get broken down, but is not grinded to a fine material. Irie, The way I dry green leaf-tea products; is in large cardboard boxes, which acts as a de-humidifyer. Don't put too much fresh leaf matter, as the green leaves will, (with some leaf such as moringa) heat up substantually, & spoil the product. The cardboard box is folded closed & left in direct sun, shake up the box regularly. After about two days in the sun the leaves should be crush dried. The product is the ground by hand through a strainer. This will remove much of the sticks & stuff. Different mesh strainer will give you different grades. This works great for moringa, caapi, novo & many more tea leaf products. Respect, Z Edited March 17, 2013 by Zaka 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) i like using cardboard boxes as well, they are plenty full, clean, and different sizes, and as well, can be used as storage, or opend and laid down, to create a clean surface, for drying herbs. but it depends aswell, how much material one dries, too much material could lead to mold problems, again as well depending on your weather and climat. phyllodes dry very slow, and i would not ever dry them this way.... you know, the local crew, uses plastic bags for shroom hunting, oh my god, naturaly i tried to convert them to using paper bags only, hehehe.... Edited March 17, 2013 by planthelper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zaka Posted March 17, 2013 you know, the local crew, uses plastic bags for shroom hunting, oh my god, naturaly i tried to convert them to using paper bags only, hehehe.... Irie, They just sweat in plastic! I always used to collect shrooms in paper bags. Also good for ripening advcados & mangos! Respect, Z Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kadakuda Posted March 20, 2013 anyone have any methods for cuttings? I have been ground layering for a little while, in need for a check. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whitewind Posted March 20, 2013 I had pretty good success with cuttings taken in spring, put into a light area (no direct sun) with bottom heat @ 21-25 degrees and mist. Material was last years growth but not tips Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 20, 2013 yes, what ww said, but I might add as follows. old growth, will not strike and very young will rot. I had the best success, by pruning the mother, and using the new shoots which had formed. one would naturaly like to obtain a lot of cutting material, and this is achived by pruning hard yet again after a while. you have seen how a tree stump, re shoots with a witches broom like effect? the tree sends out dozends of shoots, playing a number game of survival, and you want to replicate this. all those young shoots, will display juvenile growth, and as such strike easy. I think the contain, by nature, more root formation aiding hormones. some people told me (a big nursery), they can't strike mate, but it's easy if you do it as said. this planthelper moment was brought to you by planthelper!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TrailBlazer Posted March 21, 2013 If what you say about alks is true, d00d, I'd be curious to know whether a rooted cutting from a 5yo plant would produce useful product compared to a similar size seed grown plant? Hi The cuttings I have done produce berries right away vs a couple of years from seed. This is a good sign that the age is carried on. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kadakuda Posted March 22, 2013 good to know. I just dug up mine that i was ground layering to find many a root down there. Happy to see it isnt so difficult. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TrailBlazer Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) Yerba is actally very bloody easy to prop to be honest! You have to do it when the plant is in a active growth flush, Not before and not after hey Copicing the plant would force the growth flush and I think this is what Planthelper is saying. I have observed the plant grows through 3 stages all the time, Growth flush, Fruit, Dormant and all over again and again. You can root old and new growth and anything in between if you hit the bugger at the right time hey Here is what i mean: Top left old growth, Top right new growth and a bit of this and that all the way between. Ive rooted pices only 1cm long before. Bottom right is putting out berries as soon as it roots hey Happy slashin mates! Edit: typos cheers. Edited March 24, 2013 by TrailBlazer 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
