IndianDreaming Posted January 10, 2013 Wow - Mikey you're gun There are different tests for getting accurate readings on potting mix or soil. If anyone is intrested feel free to ask. If you have the time - it would be fantastic to hear about testing soil/potting mix - using the search engine give so many conflicting result a lot of the time, so from the horses mouth is gold... 25:1 Well that says it all... Mine has no air, absolutely bucket loads of green and almost no brown. Vinegar I google acidifying pots and found a few articles that said, for a once off vinegar is ok, but it's not a good thing to do regularly... Ultimately I think I'll use a good potting mix for pot plants instead of digging up the unkown soil in the yard. WB I have tonnes of leaves - and now that I think abou tit they'd be good in the compost to counteract the green - but leaf mould sounds great - well, the setting and forgetting sounds great! *runs off to google leaf mould* 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waterboy 2.0 Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) Get some shredded newspaper/cardboard into that compost to get that carbon up Edited January 10, 2013 by waterboy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CβL Posted January 11, 2013 Your compost will likely be very acidic at the moment as well, as the lack of oxygen allows the anaerobic bacteria free reign - especially if it's remained fairly constantly damp. The pH of your compost is possibly best-adjusted upwards (to basic), by using wood ash, which will also give the soil most of the micronutrients (such as transition metals, and other random nonmetals), as well as a big load of phosphorus. I would add a bit into the mix as well, before adding the cardboard (not glossy cardboard), which will allow the worms to come in, and as they do, they will chew up the wet cardboard (worms hate acid). I think that's correct, but my knowledge of soils is also really bad. I don't even have pH test-meter. ;/ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeyMagic Posted January 12, 2013 (edited) Wow - Mikey you're gun It probably would have been better for me to give the imaginitive description of a "secateur slinging, bee jocky" after you said that... But, I've often had trouble with pre-emagination. Ok so pH testers, here's what I use: http://www.ebay.com....=item35b273e064 Features I like about it are; Temperature display: This can have an effect on the pH reading, variation are printed on buffer/calibration fluid bottles Removable/replaceable probes: These are quite sesistive and can be easily broken mishadling or deteriate over time giving increasingly false readings. EC / TDS Probe: The "Electrical Conductivity" is a measure of the "Total Disolved Salts" which translates as this; The more nutrient "salts" in the test solution, the higher the "Electrical Conductivity", the higher the level of nutrient salts. These could be anything, it dosnt determine what they are. If "salt" levels are too high in the soil, then the effect of osmosis (water with a low concentration of salts will pass through a membrane towards water with a high concentration of salts) that normally takes in water and nutrients to aid the plants growth, is now reversed. This results in the plant dying of thirst/starvation even though water and nutrients are plentifull. Most people in this forum I assume would use more organic methods (ie incorparting organic matter into and on the soil which amongst its many other benifits provides a buffer against most problems), in which case EC/TDS is normally not a concern. Besides Salts is a whole new topic...! 1:5 (weight/volume) method This is the main method used in Australia for measuring pH or salinity. 1. Weigh 20 g of air-dry soil into a clean srew top glass or plastic jar with a capacity of 150ml. 2. Add 100ml of distilled or deionised water. 3. Shake continuously for 1 hour; or shake thoroughly every 5 minutes for 1 hour, or, shake thoroughly after adding water , leave stand overnight, and shake thoroughly the next morning! (I can picture someone going, "Yeah! Shake it for an hour that will do it! Then after shaking many samples the test got revised down a bit!) 4. Measure the pH by dipping the electrode into the suspenion immediatly after it has been shaken. Growing media for ornamental plants and turf. by Handrek & Black Pg 411 Edit: Remember to sift/remove gravel and undecomposed organic matter as this may comprimise the result. Edited January 13, 2013 by MikeyMagic 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IndianDreaming Posted January 12, 2013 ^ Sometimes I wish I could click the like button twice! That's a really handy method of checking the soil PH which I'll be trying in 10 mins after this post. My PH meter isn't the rolls royce model but it's electronic and accurate so it'll do the job. If "salt" levels are too high in the soil This is a fantastic insight into the physics/chemistry of plant nutrient uptake. Your explaination clearly shows that less is best due to the actual physics/chemistry of solubility - top notch! With that theory in mind you've helped to answer my questions regarding human nutirents. Although they may not hurt the plant, if the plant isn't using them, then they're taking up valuable solubility space in the water in the media, effectively making it more 'salty' - which could lead to the situation you mentioned. As for your mental imagery, it hit home with full force - I showed my partner and we nearly wet ourselves with laughter at the image of a secateur weidling mounted bee rider, buzzing off into the sunset with daisey flowers popping out the bee's exhaust in a cloud of pollen 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waterboy 2.0 Posted January 13, 2013 A modified/ghetto 1:5 solution is what I use constantly in my kit of tricks for fieldwork, then if indicated test on for acid sulphate conditions within the soil (which is an impressive exothermic reaction if positive - uses sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide as a buffer). Handreck and Black bloody good hort. reference , mine old copy is dogeared and well loved. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
