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The Corroboree

2Deep2Handle

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Posts posted by 2Deep2Handle

  4. Posted

     

    I have tomato dust which contains;

     

     

     

    Sulfur 400 g/kg

     

     

     

    Copper oxychloride 40 g/kg

     

     

    Carbaryl 20 g/kg

    is this ok to use?

    if not i'll just stick to cutting in warmer months.

     

    Short answer- no its not

    medium answer - its the carbaryl's fault

    long answer - carbaryl is a nasty compound, especially to be used in tomato dust. I think only David Gray company still use it in tomato dust. Replace with one that has the copper and sulfur, and replaces the carbaryl with spinosad, an organic brilliant product that kills most bugs as well. (its the active in Yates 'success')

    I think Yates tomato dust is now spinosad, the copper oxy and sulfur.

    the copper is great for fungal infections, the sulfur fights bacterial infection, and the Spinosad kills bugs without damaging plants, and can still be smoked, eaten, insuffalated etc, without fear of evil contaminate. The copper and sulfur still have short withholding periods (especially for stone fruit), but are generally only 2-3 withholding limits. It may take slightly longer to be processed through the cambium of cacti though.

    I use it extensively(the dust) to treat my solanaceae family, specifically chilli, Brugmansia and Datura.

    The cutting hormone powders i only use on medium-hard wood cuttings, including hybrid tea roses.

    Never seen a need for hormone on cacti cuts....

    I cut em with a relatively clean device....leave the cut 5 -14 days(depending on humidity), and then into dry substrate and dont touch again for 3 weeks where infrequent watering cna begin.

    if you must root in winter(i do all the time just cnt help myself), no wetness in substrate preferably coarse sand and little organic or LOSE CUTS

    • Like 1

  9. Posted

    6.5 k should be alright, but it is a vegitating spectrum, so you should be having the light on for atleast 18 hours a day and off for 6 to mimick summer, or get 2700-3500 k to replicate winter with 12 on 12 off.

    how many watts is that light? Keep in mind spiral CFL's are not as good as the u-ram(usually 3 straight horshoe t5 tubes).

    48 watt (220watt equiv) will be enough, if you put a bit of mylar or panda (white plastic) in there to reflect all the light back on em.

    Keep the bulb as close to all plants as possible without actually touching it.

    Recomned a fan ovedr them for circulation

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    Yay! The genes of montrusa were very much carried across...looks like chances of monstrose are indeed increased when both parents are of the monstrose variety! Ill have to update my thread on my CPM i crossed with the help of Moses too. Splendid work Mutant

  17. Posted · Edited by 2Deep2Handle

    Jox mate...might be time for a face to face catch up

    At mine im proposing.... i got a mad shaded area, that already grows all kinds of random mycilium, but im only just considering getting into it.

    EDIT: lol you too Goldtop if your a local. Im at the base of Beechmont (sought of)

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    Naja Naja...beautiful plant indeed, but we all still want a vid of you doing a jig in front of it? :D

    Good to hear they go off in the ground. Just planted a couple of reds and narrows out so we will see how they go..

    Would love to get green.vienna white, and PH F1 ...willing to pay or trade if anyone has seed or cuts?

  21. Posted

    Dont know if there was only 1 pack of the Turbini swobodae, but would love a pack of em, and the Epith mircomeris

    can I please have 1xTurb swobodae. 1xEpith mircromeris and 1 x L.W

    Thanks heaps

    Good karma for you bog frog

    Trichocereus hybrids (nitrogen's crosses) around 20 seeds per pack

    • T. Puquiensis x T. Pachanoi (P.D) (x1)
    • T. Ayacucho x T. Huarazensis (x1)
    • T. Puqiensis x T. Ayacucho (x3)
    • T. Cuzcoensis x T. Bridgesii N1 (x0)
    • T. Puquio x T. Scopulicola (x1)
    • T. Scopulicola x T. Puquiensis (x1)
    • T. Harazensis x T. Bridgesii N1 (x2)

     

    Minatures ten seeds per pack

    • L W (x1)

     

    Other stuff

    • Trichocereus Formosa (x3)
    • Silene Capensis (x3)
    • Vervain (x1)
    • N. Tabaccum (x3)
    • Albuca Spiralis (0)
    • NZ Iris - Libertia ixioides (x2)

     

  22. Posted

    EG i am only concerned weather the seeds sprout or not....not how they grow......

    I could do my phd for I.T, but id rather keep finishing off my cruisy dip hort stuff....might look at further studies again one day when im a little older...

    In terms of germinating them in this temp in Far Nrth NSW, im doing it inside, on 3 sep shelves, and 2 chambers are lit from 5 pm until 7am, and then total darkness. Would this be the right photoperiod of light for germination you think kadakuda?

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