Jump to content
The Corroboree


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by ∂an

  1. one of the good things about the potency of rustica is that, in my experience, it prevents habitual and casual use patterns, and demands a respectful setting.  pretty much every time I have smoked or vaped it casually for a nicotine high, it has left my throat and mouth sore for many days.  


    I have found an aqueous extract that is snorted to be a good administration method.  not sure if the extracts I have made are anywhere near the potency of the traditional preparations (rapé, ambil etc) described from the amazon and peruvian high lands though...


    an aqueous extract it is also useful as an insect repellant and herbicide.  

  2. Pretty sure it is p. antillarum, the "weed panaeolous".  When they are young they can sometimes appear similar to p. cyanescens, but at this more mature stage they are quite distinct. The usual antillarum differentiators for me are the silvery convex cap with a distinctive smooth texture, and the slightly thicker stem that turns a very light brown rather than blue when bruised (i.e. squished and left in your pocket for 5 minutes as you moo-ve on through the green fields).  


    It is interesting observing the different "paddock" mushrooms.  Usually antillarum will fruit first (even in late winter), as it appears to not have such stringent humidity, moisture and temperature requirements as cyanescens and cubensis.  One or the other usually dominates too - i.e. a field will have either mostly antillarium, mostly cyanescens or mostly cubensis.  Just as antillarum drops off, one of the others will pop up.  I guess they have evolved to fulfil slightly different climatic niches.


    Here are some pics of some active panaeolous (not sure if cyanescens or cambodginiensis etc) for reference:



















    • Like 3

  3. If they have dark spores and the white flesh turns blue when bruised, then they are probably panaeolous cyanescens.  Lots of them throughout NSW at the moment.  Typically they are mostly white with a yellow patch at the crown, but under certain circumstances they can appear yellow/golden all over the cap.  


    But there are other dung mushrooms that are a rusty "golden" colour all over including the gills and spores, so to be sure of an ID post a picture.

    • Like 2

  4. very interesting, I didn't know about those experience reports on erowid where coleus was also found to catalyse other worldly dreams.  my experience was with a majority green coleus with red colouration in the centre of the leaves, combined with caapi.  I no longer have that coleus plant unfortunately.


    Christian Rätsch's book Encyclopaedia of Pyschoactive Plants has some interesting info in the entry for coleus blumei.  Here is a summary:

    • originally from SE asia, brought to south america post-conquest
    • psychoactive use amongst the Mazatecs was discovered in 1962 in connection with Gordon Wasson's research into salvia divinorum [1]
    • Mazatecs consider coleus to be in the same "family" as salvia, and has been reported to be used as a substitute for salvia (no reference given)
    • however Daniel Seibert reported that he only ever met one person in the area of the Mazatecs who maintained that coleus was psychoactive [2]
    • is used medicinally in Samoa, SE Asia and PNG to treat various maladies including digestive issues and headaches [1,3,4]
    • Rosmarinic acid has been biosynthesised in cell cultures of coleus blumei [5,6]
    • a diterpene (forskolin = coleonol) that is potently bioactive has been found in coleus forskohlii [4,7]
    •  salvinorin-like substances have been isolated from coleus blumei (no reference) 

    1. Ott 1993

    2. Schuldes 1995

    3. Uhe 1974

    4. Valdes et al 1987

    5. Häusler 1992

    6. Meinhard 1993

    7. D McKenna 1995


    So it would appear that there are definitely some bio active compounds in some coleus plants, however its use as an effective shamanic intoxicant is inconclusive.  


    • Like 2

  5. On 14/03/2018 at 9:20 PM, Irpini said:

    Very interesting, do you know roughly how large the leaf was and what were the colours of the leaf?


    It was a while ago now, but the leaf was probably a bigger one, so about the size of a hand.  It was the common green with purple flecks coleus.  I'm not sure it was the coleus that induced the dream, as caapi itself would be enough to induce a non-ordinary brain state, and vivid dreams are not uncommon for me.  But reading my description again, this was probably one of the more far out dreams I have had!

  6. HBWR has been an ephemeral medicine for me too.  About 10 years ago I took a really large dose (~13 seeds crushed in water with lemon juice).  It was one of the most intense psychedelic experiences I have ever had, with very overt hallucinations and profound thoughts - including, interestingly enough and related to this discussion, that this plant must have been utilised by humans in the past.  The trip coincident with me getting a bad flu, which all combined to make it a really difficult experience, but one that I always remember.


    Now I find myself only taking HBWR when other more preferable medicines such as cactus and mushrooms are not available.  One very useful quality of HBWR is that it seems to readily allow sleep.  Just one or two seeds seems to be sufficient.  


    A beautiful but complex plant.


    • Like 2

  7. 1 hour ago, zelly said:

    it freezes occasionally where i live & my cielo caapi LOVES it here & she's in full bloom right now, at the tail end of winter.....





    how did your plant go in its first winter?  did you provide a micro climate for it? thanks

  8. 12 hours ago, tarenna said:


    Possibly - but only just... The bigger the vine the more likely to withstand these conditions. I have a 2-3m high caapi ,maximum stem width of approx 2cm, at the edge of a back valley floodplain planted below a native rainforest tree that gets periodic frosting down to a minimum of -2C each winter. All the foliage gets burnt off, but the basal stems survive and re-shoot each winter, re-growing to a bit higher each spring and summer.. This year, the 4th in the ground, the vine has reached about 4m in height and the basal stems are thickening proportionally. I am gunna try more shelter (shade cloth and padding with straw - something not tried previously) in the coming winter to minimise the amount of frost scorch and try to get it a bigger headstart come next spring...


    okay, thanks.  this plant is in its first season at its new location, after being purchased as a bare rooted yearling in August.  it probably will need to be nursed through its first winter here, lest it not recover after loosing leaves.  a mini green house with hessian might do the trick for the caapi and other tropicals.


    good luck with your vine!

  9. On 01/03/2002 at 4:06 AM, coin said:

    Min – Max: 4 – 40 C

    Protect from frost

    Taking cuttings: (info from Torsten)

    only in summer.

    take a 2 node cutting (cuttings with at least two nodes will be woody enough..shorter is too young and green, and will only end up rotting)

    rub the bottom node off with the thumb.

    cut the leaves off the top node, but do not injure the axil bud. if the axil bud has already produced leaves, trim these back to virtually no surface area. (reducing transpiration)

    root well in coarse sharp sand for 3-8 weeks, then transplant - no hormone needed, but process will be accelerated by using IBA Clonex gel soft wood strength

    [This message has been edited by coin (edited 28 February 2002).]


    Does anyone know if caapi will tolerate a few weeks of ~2 degree minimum nights in winter?  

  10. On 19/11/2017 at 2:09 PM, IceCube said:

    Hey mate, I have a Yowie that is about to flower.


    okay great.  Looks like my first flower is days away now.  I will collect pollen and get in touch to see if you want to make a trade.  The last developed flowers look like they are a good month away so should be a chance to pollinate them with some yowie pollen.



  11. 18 hours ago, Inyan said:

    Sadly, you will need a partner for this cacti that is not a clone. If you act now, someone may offer to send you some pollen in exchange for some seeds I'd be willing to bet. Just look @Matt1208 and his pollen above you. Or... look elsewhere for some pollen.


    Okay thanks.  Great idea!  My track record with growing cacti seeds isn't so good as I keep trying to do it outdoors where the birds, possums, slugs and snails get into them when they pop up.  So I'd definitely be keen for a pollen and seed trade!  I would be happy to pass the seeds on to someone who has the setup already.  I guess the flower still has a month or so to go?





    • Like 4

  12. Thanks for the very helpful comments!


    Looks like my first step should be to get the propagation environment setup.  I'd like to try and make do with what materials I currently have available, so I will probably go with the plastic tub option Glaukus mentioned.  I used a plastic tub filled with a bit of water and bottom heated to successfully get some mail ordered aya and chacruna plants established at the end of winter.  Now that it is warmer probably won't need any heating, but I will monitor humidity and temp to make sure.  


    I might take just a few cuttings to start with to ensure my method is working.  Will post pics as I progress... cheers!

    • Like 1

  13. Hello plant friends!


    I have a salvia plant that a member was kind enough to gift me a few years back.  I have been meaning to take cuttings for some time now, as the plant appeared to not be doing as good as it could, and I don't want to miss my chance to propagate this relatively difficult to come by plant.  So now in spring with a bit of humidity and cloud cover seems like a reasonable time (correct me if wrong please!).  Here is the plant with some labels:




    And a photo taken at ~ point 1 looking back towards the pot:




    There is a coleus growing next to it so I labelled its branch to avoid confusion.  Over the past few summers the salvia has grown one big branch that can be seen growing outwards to left of the pot in the photo.  This branch is a bit woody now, so not really ideal for cuttings I guess?  I have put numbered lines where I was thinking I could take cuttings on this main branch.  My goal is take make the cuttings a few inches long and cut just below a node.  Is this a good idea to try and make cuttings from an older branch?  Or should I wait until some fresh growth comes out a few inches and use that for cuttings? I feel this plant would do better if I cut off that big branch so it could focus its energy on new grown down near the base, but it would be good to use this cut branch for propagation too.


    All comments, help and ridicule welcome! 











    • Like 2