Inyan

May I suggest getting some books on the subject? Speed of growth is nice, but breeding for more cold hardiness or colors is also a nice idea. How many can survive 15 degree's or lower temperatures. Maximum height and width attained is also nice to know. If you have a super fast growing cacti that only grows to 3 feet... is this okay with your program. Try to get as many details as you can and then sort through the characteristics that you like so you don't short change yourself and your breeding program. Just my thoughts on the matter. If your breeding for pencil then cacti that grows 6 ft in 3 months then you may also be creating a potential weed if it escapes your breeding program. I can just imagine having to mow my yard with all those pesky hybrids sprouting all over it. Also of note, you want to research the hybrids already out there so you don't have to waste years making crosses simply to attain an intermediate cacti for further hybridizing. Use other hybridizers and there attempts to your advantage. The below web sites have some hybrid Trichocereus as well under Trichocereus as well as Trichocereus hybrides. https://www.uhlig-kakteen.de/header.php offers seed and cacti Clicking on pictures may give you information in German which you can then go to babelfish and translate. example: xxL Trichocereus With coolly winter peace 6-12°C the plants from November should stand for drying completely to March. In addition, they stand locations at room temperature. In this case all 3 to 4 weeks a little is poured. The ever bright location is, so much the better. Now, what these descriptors are of XXL or XL are... I have no idea. http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt http://www.huntington.org/BotanicalDiv/Sch...talogindex.html nice hybrids http://www.koehres-kaktus.de/Downloads/kakteen.pdf 3224 Flying Saucer X E. obrepanda AN 0861 0,80 2,40 = 100 seed 3207 Flying Saucer X Grs.schoenste AN 0805 0,80 2,40 1772 Flying Saucer X High Noon AN 0805 0,90 1773 Flying Saucer X Magnolis AN 0809 0,80 2,40 1775 Flying Saucer X Papagei AN 0843 0,80 2,40 1777 Flying Saucer X Yellow Cal. AN 0801 0,80 2,40 3229 thelegonus X kermesina 1,10 4,30=100 seed 12,00=1,000 seed 1778 macrogonus J 0,60 1,80 7,00=1,000 seed, 31,00=10,000 seed 1795 terscheckii J 0,60 1,80 7,00=1,000 seed http://www.basementshaman.com/trichyb.html http://www.herbalfire.com/trichocereus-hua...ctus-p-249.html Trichocereus 'Huasca' hybrid: We are now able to offer stunning 18'' rooted 'huasca' hybrids that are branching out like crazy with new pups. Our highly aesthetic hybrids are proud to have come from a strong genetic heritage. The translucent yellow spines only compliment the gorgeous red flowers that bloom in more abundance than any other Trichocereus species. http://www.troutsnotes.com/sc/Known_hybrids.html More pictures showing some nice variation in seedlings... note: Seedlings between crosses can be highly variable and even more so the further you get away from the F1 cross so two very different F1 seedlings from a given cross if out crossed to a different F1 cross involving different genetics may give you very different results as the genetics of each were already distinct from each other the moment you selected your two F1 hybrids... or at least hopefully, you grew enough seedlings to warrant a good selection such as this. http://www.au.gardenweb.com/forums/load/ca...0509061192.html Forums such as the above are also good to join as you can read and discover that you can create night and day blooming varieties if such is your goal. http://www.webshots.com/search?query=Trichocereus+Hybrid For some more nice Trichocereus hybrids.

Sounds like you didn't let them root properly, but I've been mistaken before. Cut all the mush out and be sure to clean you blade after each cut. Wiping it off and dipping in alcohol between each cut or use mutliple knives. Depending on your level of ick factor... you can also flame sterilize or simply use a fresh blade for each new cut. Dip the green healthy fresh cut tip in a bit of sulfur and let dry. Place these dry cuttings in a well aerated top dressing of 1-2 inches with a richer soil underneath those two inches. Report back with some pictures.

Tabernanthe albiflora 489 Tabernanthe bocca 489 Tabernanthe elliptica 490 Tabernanthe elliptica x Tabernaemontana (Pterotabera) inconspicua 490 Tabernanthe iboga 12, 148, 423, 485, 488, 489ff., 546, 557, 572, 588, 595, 776, 838, 839, 841 Tabernanthe iboga var. iboga 489 Tabernanthe iboga var. manii 489 Tabernanthe mannii 489 Tabernanthe pubescens 489, 493 Tabernanthe subsessilis 489 Tabernanthe tenuiflora 489 http://www.deutschesfachbuch.de/info/detai...amp;word=#word8 Looks to me from what I can tell that there is already a hybrid with Tabernanthe ellliptica as well as other varieties and species. For someone who simply loves hybridizing and has multiple species or varieties flowering and fruiting... it doesn't make sense not to hybridize a few of the above, if for nothing else but to see if any new phenotypes could be attained with more desirable characteristics than their parents.

FM, Just trying to fill in a few gaps I saw in an otherwise very beautifully detailed piece of work. The 4 quadrant streak is the best though in my opinion for isolation if your going to choose just one method. One thing of importance is you only want to cut into each quadrant streak with one or two swipes max. I found a few examples to show you a halfway decent attempt at isolation... notice that each quadrant is only went into twice... resulting in better isolation. http://www.microbelibrary.org/microbelibra...Sreak_fig10.jpg Another good attempt... http://www.microbelibrary.org/microbelibra...Streak_fig6.jpg Now, for a piss poor technique where each quadrant is cut into repeatedly.... http://www.microbelibrary.org/microbelibra...treak_fig13.jpg As you can see, it is possible to get a few isolates even with poor technique. While this is generally true, you must keep in mind that spore syringes as well as prints are loaded with many more spores than you need so you may still want to dilute 50% or more before you take a single drop to plate out via this method.

Teotz, you might want to try that link again. It doesn't seem to be working for me. As for the crested pachanoi... its pretty common in Europe as well as in the States. Wish it were easier to get some for you. Me, I like the variegated forms of pachanoi myself, although they are prone to root rot unless grafted onto hardier stock.

Serial dilutions are a definite must, but just as important is your plating practices if not more so. You will need several plates each with the designated dilution marked on them so you know what was your best dilution given your own streaking technique. You will want to take a dropper and take up just a single drop of your dilution starting with the most dilute first and add this drop to your plate on the edge. You will then need to streak this out by making at least 4 quadrants. Now, if you've done this right, you should be able to isolate a few individual spores which will then begin to grow. The better your streaking technique, the less you have to dilute. With extremely dilute samples you can simply pour a good euro sized drop or larger onto your plate and roll this around until your entire plate is covered. Watch for growth and once you have a few isolated strains of each variety you can then subculture onto another plate. Obviously, your going to want to right down the specific variety on each plate before hand and work with one strain at a time. Permanent markers work well for this. After you have allowed your plates to settle, turn them upside down as moisture will collect in the tops otherwise and ruin your culture as it drops down into your mycelium. Contamination also occurs this way. If you don't have the time to make serial dilutions you can sub your plates one after another taking each culture from the last quadrant of the last plate you worked on. This should be done prior to growing them out. One more note, each single isolated culture can be kept in its pure form via plating to another and labeling which plate each one came from originally. In this way, you can make multiple crosses with a single isolate and test each cross against each other to see which one performs better. You can think of each cross as a single variable seed from a plant for comparison purposes. When you make a cross with plants or cacti you want to grow a number of seeds from that same cross to get a variation that is worthy of introducing. For what its worth, shaking, vibrating, rotating, etc. are all methods of getting your spores to separate out from each other in their dilution. If you have a microscope, it would be advised that you check a drop out first to see approximately how many spores you have in a drop. If you have just 1-10 spores in a single drop you can forget streaking and simply roll that drop around on your plate until all portions of your media have been covered. I like to rotate the pate continuously for a few minutes when utilizing this method. If you see more than 50 spores in a single drop or dilution... streaking is going to be a must. http://www.studentsguide.in/microbiology/m...ate-method.html The above is a simple diagram showing different streaking methods. Practice makes perfect. http://www.fungi.com/tools/media.html A good agar has antibiotics in it to prevent/control contamination... in my opinion. Plastic plates can also be used and reused with little fear of contamination via cleaning them in h202 hydrogen peroxide bath followed by an ethanol bath and lastly a 10% bleach bath for a one hour soak in each bath. Allow your plates to air dry between each batch.

Where would we be without the ability to quantify chemical compositions. Shamanism as we know it may never have come to be without the help of such quantifications. Seriously, there is a subjective quantitative, if you will entertain such, as well as a subjective qualitative difference in many sacraments. The experience was qualitatively different or quantitatively different... food for thought at any rate whether you choose to agree, remain neutral or disagree.

I may have to make a run down to your neck of the woods just to teach you how to graft if thats the case. You can always remove the graft and let it root on its own for a few years after a desirable size has been attained.

I like that Garbage. Laughing, seriously though... you do have to take those things into consideration. There is a madness to many things that seem doubtful and that madness sometimes stems from the fact that the reason is not the reason it is being related to in such a manner. There is another hidden reason, such as you suggest Garbage. I'm not saying this is the case here, just that it could be the case. Take wakinyan, winyan, inyan... all have stone hidden in their meaning. Stone boy... much is often related in shamanic traditions that doesn't seem like they should be related in shamanic traditions and especially so where medicine/pejuta is concerned. The stone/inyan however is prevalent in many ceremonies whether it is hidden in the 7 stones of the water drum of the peyote ceremony... http://store.canyonrecords.com/index.php?a...p;ref=peyote_cd You can listen to some peyote songs from various tribes via the above if you'd like without purchasing the songs.... Or more blatantly seen in the inipi/sweat lodge ceremony. There is most generally a reason and that reason may not be clear as it is not meant to be understood in the way it is presented at all times. In short, some things are misleading... but they are true for another reason or they are important for another reason and in fact are not true in the literal sense or any other sense for that matter. Confused? Well that is my take on these statements as presented and my take may be grossly wrong or right on key.

Qualitative or quantitative?

Sorry, you definitely don't have a Psychotria on your hands or a cappi. As for Diplotery... I haven't seen this one in several years, but I know a few who still grow it. Pass a picture to me and I'll get an I.D. for you. A source, while not required... could also turn out some more clues. Its not a cappi either, so... I'd hate to see you get rid of this one before you get a positive I.D. Definitely promising. I'm not a betting man, but I'd bet that you should keep this one safe and far from injury. I might even consider getting this one a larger pot and laying it down on its side so you can form a larger root base and send up a few more shoots when you get the chance. Nice prospect and another good reason for growing from seed. I know a few vendors grow their Psychotria too close together and hence have a few variable seedlings so while the mother may be known... the father is always in question when you have more than one variety and no system to prevent cross pollination.

I'm no expert on photoshop, but the flower has been doctored. Very nice work though and I might even consider it bordering on artistic. Nice for a background on the desk top.

Katrien Bonte...suaveolens type variegated/pink flower.

B. sanguinea... this particular one is very sweet to the taste as a honey like nectar forms on the stigma which leaves a very sticky gummy feeling as you roll it in your fingers. If I were a hummingbird, I could feast off of these flowers. As I'm not, I deal with the small amounts I can get without flying. B. sanguinea is also self-sterile.

1st Flower... B. arborea white (self fertile) 2nd Flower ... B. aurea orange (self-sterile) 3rd flower... B. Roter Vulkan red (hybrid self-sterile)---

A few Brugmansia seedlings and a shot of an odd phenotypical expression found on a wild specimen maintained in collection. As for some other things I've read in here... I've noted that dry and pasty is more likely than not... try to think of of your old girl friend Mary Jane x 10. I have to agree with you Mutant. Definitely not for everyday use, but can be used as frequently as every other day for a medicinal. As I'm not a doctor and I do know how dangerous this one can be, I'll come back and post a recipe or two from a cited source when I get around to it.

Everyone/thing should be respected, but not every reaction should be respected. A person is not an action or a reaction however and just as you can not change why a person acts or reacts you can choose to respect yourself enough not to get entangled in what you can not change.

Long spines considered undesirable... now I think we can take that with a grain of salt personally as the shaman is going to want to work with material that is the easiest to work with. Dried for over a year, I might be inclined to put some stock in this comment based purely on subjective experience.

As always, excellent information and keen insight. While I am always applauding those who hybridize like PD. here and others... there is something nice to be said for having those pure specimens in ones collection or at least a few different local variations. I honestly can't remember if I've ever had a T. pachanoi that fits the description you have shown us here which has me thinking of seed sources for this one. Any suggestions Trout, Michael... anyone? My primary seed source is currently http://www.koehres-kaktus.de/index1gb.htm In years past, http://www.mesagarden.com/, was my primary seed source for such cacti. None of these seedlings looked like anything in your picture.

P. viridis is in the states. You can identify it via looking at the underside where you will see little barbs as I call them. Yeah, I know its not the proper term. It grows significantly slower than P. alba. Trust me, it exists in the U.S.A. and yes I realize that many have sold P. alba as viridis. Diplotery's also exists in the states. Native Habitat (Lee and Alan) has them both... whether they are willing to sell the one or not... they will sell the viridis. If memory serves me, they have had both the plants you seek for several years now. http://www.nativehabitat.com/plants.htm

TBM... Too Big Monstrose? Or Trichocereus bridgessi monstrose? Either way, I've always flooded my Trichocereus in the same pool as my Brugmansia. Variegated forms of Trichocereus however, I have grafted to non-variegated forms as they will not take the same watering schedule as I keep my Brugmansia on without rotting. Of course, changing the soil into something more porous would circumvent that problem, but I tend to like to conserve water without worrying about the run off. A better run operation of course would perhaps collect the run off and use it for watering others down the path.

http://trichocereusforestryservice.blogspo...fting%20sprouts It goes without saying that you can grow cacti via hydroponics, but it is nice to see people trying it. http://www.dopesthydroponics.com/gallery.html http://www.hobbyhydro.com/shop.php?c=2&amp...cereus_pachanoi http://www.1-seedbank.com/cacti/index.html Hydroponic Loph Simply put, growing any plant in a medium such as sand, gravel, perlite, clay debris, etc... add water at regular intervals to ensure the nutrient requirements are met and allow to drain and dry so that the roots don't rot. Now, questions I'd be looking into is how long can the particular roots of the particular cacti in question stay wet before you must begin the drying phase and is this drying phase needed with all cacti. Temperatures regulation is also going to be a must as your going to be wanting to push your cacti as fast as you can without splitting them. So, lights are another concern as without adequate light your not going to get the growth you want either. Still, if your going this far you might want to consider gardening with carbon dioxide. http://www.homeharvest.com/carbondioxideenrichment.htm In this manner you can expect yield increases of 20-40% in growth. Now, if your still tracking... why not supplement with some growth hormones... GA3, etc. Guess it all depends on how much you want to shell out for your operation.

Teotz, don't think, know... the leaf will make it. Heck, it may even set down a small root or two while it is traveling, but these things take a long time to start putting out babies and I've kept leaves alive for months. Now, if they are immature leaves then and only then you might have a problem. http://www.bouncingbearbotanicals.com/chacruna-p-114.html While supplies last, this place is apparently selling fresh leaves.. not dried... which means at $40 for a pound of leaves... you could have a forest of Psychotria. Best of all, its local. They are also offering seed as well. Do some research and you will find what you need in the local area. I haven't seen Diploterys plants in several years, but when it was last seen by me, it was seen growing in Florida like a rampant weed. Similar to how cappi grows in parts of Florida. I imagine everyone in the states has it by now, but then again I wouldn't be surprised if a select few were still holding onto it. Something I'll have to research if someone else doesn't beat me to it.

Torsten, You are very right about this plant growing very fast. I've seen it years ago being grown by a few in Florida. A very nice plant indeed. I'm assuming it is available by now?

One of those cacti looks like it might be a poppy in disguise as a cacti.... Michael or one of the other experts will show up and help you with the rest.