kadakuda
-
Content count
1,446 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by kadakuda
-
-
Ya fb....nuff said. narcissistic chemical release.
always wondered how you guys did them in actual water. here it has never worked. outdoors, indoors, greenhouse or balcony, always died here.
maybe some thoughts on species, varieties or clones that do well in rain?
for me bridge is always teh absolute worst with wet. werder being the best. i find the tolerance for me here is as follows, first being strongest in wet: werder, cuzco, macro, peruv, pach, bridge. those are the ones i have tried outdoors and/or in ground. all did well in ground but in a greenhouse, so covered from rain, but had wet feet at times, but that was also with huge rock/grit amendments to the greenhouse floor. will try a few in a raised rock bed ontop of concrete this typhoon season and see who stands up
ironically various astrophytum hybrids did well outside compared to the trichs.-
2
-
-
you guys might be thinking too much. its gorgeous and smells even better than it looks, hence its popularity among gardeners. i have seen a few city governments in canada plant it on roadside/intersection gardens intentionally as well. its just amazingly beautiful, for most thats the only reason its grown.
-
1
-
-
good point. thanks.
but hell will freeze over three fold before i ever become naive enough to discuss this stuff on FB....
have noticed the forums going down in traffic. have some theories, but would be interested to hear you guys ideas on why. such a free gold mine here and relate forums. if we are careful about how we use these forums and dont use our phones/computers/ip etc it is relatively safe with some common sense.
-
2
-
-
fluoro ballasts do tend to get hot. thats normal. 60 seems right. i tend to start thinking safety when plastic starts getting that yellow/brown color. cfls are shitty in the sense they are fixed together. but tubes are fairly easy to add wire and put the ballast away from the light in a more free airflow environment. but personally with tubes never had the feeling they got too hot. any flouro trouble i have ever had was with the cfl types.
-
1
-
-
in years past when doing very large harvests of flowers, about 100-200kg a night, there was a very slight feeling, but not so intoxicating and in no important way impairing the body. would drive the truck back after without any sense of worry or difficulty. one thing though that did happen a few times that caused some worry was when you break branches sometimes the juice will splash. this has hit the eye a few times and caused a pretty obvious reaction, though in no way uncomfortable. cannot comment as to possible damage, but for 24-48 hours the pupil of the eye was dilated to the max. like REALLY big to the point of police would arrest you on the spot if they saw you haha. it also caused blurry vision somewhat severe so that if both eyes got hit with one drop each, you would be fucked for driving and even walking. just due to blurry, there was little if any feeling of being high, but somewhat euphoric in a very mild way which we put down to more the contact on the bare arms an legs, not the single drop on the eye. generally i consider it not as dangerous as people think when just working the plants. smoke, ingestion etc are a different matter, but topical plant juices from pruning/growing your plants shouldnt be much of an issue. these experiences are with brugmansia suaveolens.
edit to add. and it could be placebo. but i do find that when i put a lot of flowers in my bedroom at night and slept, the dreams were quite vivid. but should note that when i put other heavily scented flowers of which i rally enjoy, such as champaca, the same thing happens. so it may just be from a mood alteration due to sent rather than what many may suspect from a brugmansia. in recent years i have had a lot of thoughts about how scent plays a role in our psychology.
-
5
-
-
Inyans purple testing got me a bit motivated as of late. as in hte past i grew lots of tricks but find them quite pathetic at living in extended wet conditions, even in pure rock media. tehy are more able to do cold than wet it seems in the sense of growing in northern locations compared to tropical ones.
So who else has looked into this problem? i have only managed various other slightly to non active types like cuzcoensis that can handle the wet, sort of. as in survive, not prosper. bridge and pach are utterly hopeless in the outdoors here. peruvianus can do better, but seems debatable on their species classification and bioassay puts them more in line with cuszcoensis as far as effects and nausea
so we abandoned the idea years ago.we had good success grafting with in ground outdoor plants, but grafts were susceptible to high winds during typhoons, but might be an option for non ocean side type regions in the tropics where cyclones/typhoons are not an issue.
anyone dealt with high water tolerance types of trichs? the problem is not ever quantity of water, but the duration they are kept wet.
-
2
-
-
the palnts would be so short and not so important as to penetration like with other taller leafy plants. LED are expensive. Flouros work well but are quite bad for the environment. a "wall plug" should be fine as long as evything has teh proper ballast, which it shold theorteically if you are buying the fixture. spending $!50 for 36w from a pet shop for plants that tend to spend lots of energy protecting against UV type light seems a bit.....sensless... hardware store lights work fine. make an even mix of both extremes of common t5 or t8 type bulbs (meaning 3500k and 6500k +/-) and you will be happy.
led are nice cause they are said to be nicer on the environment. they are very directional and hence use less power. but in small numbers of seedlings the difference of power is probably barely noticeable. flourescent are cheap, easy but non directional and not great at distance, but with seedlings and grafts the plant height is very easy to control and so is the distance between light and plant.
-
1
-
-
totally true. actually a good point about you can expose a tray of hundreds of seedlings to whichever environmental factor and pick and choose from those experiments. I guess i was mostly focusing on the time it takes to bring plants to reproduction for the second, third, fourth etc crosses being the main time such. Seems the cactus experiments might actually be relatively non space demanding then....if one has the climate for outdoor growth, all the easier to plunk those pretty purple little guys outside and let them bloom.
ps. i recommend looking into using light photo period for triggering blooming artificially much like in flower and fruit production. its done commercially with other cactus already and would bet large it works with these as well. use Hylocereus as a beginning point to determine what kalvin, lumen and period of time to begin with then fine tune for that.
good work, sounds like a blast.
-
1
-
-
yes exactly. Thats teh point i was trying to make. you wouldnt be "breeding for purple" so much as yopu would e breeding for the reaction to the trigger for purple. much like any leafy plant variety. the difference ebing the cactus has a WAY longer reproduction time than sweet potato for example. so thats all was trying to get at. you breed for the gene that triggers pigment increase/decrease based on wahtever trigger that may be, likely light and/or water and go from there. but whereas a new sweet potato that is purple might only take a few years, cactus would probably take the same but in decades. respect to all those who do it and more respect to those who manage it quicker
but i think we agree, we are not breeding for more purple as if it were some kind of co-dominant pigment trait that can simply be selective bred with liek colors and relatively accuratley be assumed they would become more of that color. as seen especially in animal morph breeding. we are breeding for a reaction to an environmental stimulation or reaction that changes a plants pigment and needs to be played out in numbers and over time. doable for sure, but some time and space required.
I will be watching for sure
-
QuoteThe bottom line is that the environment often does affect how genes influence phenotype.
precisely.
-
1
-
-
May certainly be wrong but the purple is a pigment change due to environmental factors it seems. i have seen a lot of trichs go purple not just from cold, but more often from dehydration/sun.
Peresk grafts are certainly more prone to it, and seedling grafts as well. which kind of points towards an environmental change in chemistry.
If you got larger plants that were well watered, good warm temps and in sun that is "normal", and still had purple, that would b something to breed for. others are seemingly just more prone to wahtever environmental stresses that trigger teh abundance of purple, or the lsser of green/orange pigments. much like some sweet potato types, for example, the purple types go green when in full sun, but through selective breeding they got ones that stayed purple in that exposure setting and now some types, especially the lef vegetable purple types, stay purple even in the most intense sun....any more sun they just go brown haha.
also note your heavy purple types will be able to photosynthesis, unlike pure yellow for example, but will almost certainly grow quite slow, so the selective breeding process involved in that and the end reward may or may not be worth it, but you seem right into it so a 20 year investment may well be worth it
Ill be firt in line to see your solid purple pedro.wonder how pigment is in relation to mesc. probably not a big importance, but would be intereting to test teh solid variegated (albino) types to see if they are also active.
-
1
-
-
Ive got one more clone from tai wan that is surely originally from here as it was from seed. i got it from a local grower, but as my luck has it it all reverted to columnar. i have since hacked it into chunks to propagate it, but if it goes crest again will post pics. its much more grey/blue in color and has rigid small spines, not like the first i sent you sagi.
I have noticed that trich crests are easier than many other sp. to revert. my tbm crests also all reverted, but back to penises not columns. weird...maybe its my water...
-
1
-
-
This is true, and my new location is way drier, and that seems to be the issue, but raising humidity is also causing rot.
Nice looking cuts there man, i may need to hook up a pump and a rubbermaid then...just got some fresh IBA and NAA so will try, my old bottles long expired haha so no surprise they weren't so effective.
but i woudl note your cuttings are from 5 month old seedlings. when my plants were younger, under a couple years, and not yet blooming they were also one of the easiest things in the world to strike roots. even just a cup of water i got 80%+. but after blooming things changed drastically. wondering if others had similar experiences or just im dropping the ball...
One and the same, but it doesnt grow wild here, i sometimes go traveling to collect plants when i need a break from local life haha ;)
-
3
-
-
I know this should be easy, and i used to propagate the shit out of it. but the last 2 years i have had literally zero success for 5 different (genetically) stock plants, many of their clones and 2 different wild locations....
can't figure it out other than the plants are seemingly in a year round blooming mood unless i defoliate them. wild plants less so, but travelling brings about other factors, not much point discussing those.
What are your guys' methods. This used to be just embarrassing, now its friggin frustrating!
I also want to get my method down again before traveling to go collect more new wild types. last time cuttings all died and not so willing to travel in the intense heat anymore, so wild seed collection, for now, is out.
Im normally organic, but i have been trying hormones as well with this to try, and i have access to almost any chemical here if i need it. And to get more plants at this stage im willing to use it as my trees are too big to relocate and my old farm is about to be turned into a rice paddy.....
the other one im trying to propagate is yohimbe, but iv read that is pretty tough without tissue culture, and my current situation is probably too dirty for that at this time,. but if there are tips for that as well, im all ears
Just the kratom........ makes me feel like that guy who tries to grow dandelion and cant....dammit!-
3
-
-
that thing meangreen mentions can be useful, but ive had a few viridis grow without it regularly. i know they are true as they are the same clone, but grew in different spots for extended times.
flowers and fruit like zelly said are easy too, but need to wait.
stipules are 100% and easy to ID right away, no need to wait for flowers
-
had a picture up somewhere comparing the 2 species. the stipule is an easy way to tell off the bat. carth/alba are short and fat, viridis is long. can google. or post a clear picture here fo the full sized stipules and can tell you
my eyes arent great but from the pics yours look carth like.
-
but orally i thought it was super hard to pass into the brain? im a bit rusty mind you, but would be quite interested for a close family member. but all the meds he takes slowly lose their efficiency and so onward to being paralyzed...
-
nice pics. further south we found a couple species of mitragyna, argyreia and a few others that looked interesting but didnt id. laos is soo cool. but feel bad for the peopel with such a shit waste of a government
-
Can i ask, what is it in the velvet bean that is able to pass the brain barrier and help the Parkinsons?
-
camphor forests here, where its native, tend not to be stunted much by their chemicals. but i would certainly warn against because they do seed young and they seed heavily, and as above mentions birds spread them far and wide. but the species itself doesnt really smother in the sense that if ti grows out other plants are easy to grow and the forest is monospecific, if thats a word.
if Aus has a problem with it, make oil and sell it. or just tell the Chinese community its there and it will be gone soon enough. we use the shit out of the stuff here!
-
2
-
-
very cool!
How long would you say it took, roughly, from flower to mature seeds?
-
green cuttings can work but no where near as well as thicker woodier cuttings. they layer very well. but cuttings work well enough.
one thing i noticed that maybe is neglected is they tend to grow more up than out. i have bushes that are meters wide with no support and they grow slow. if htey have somethign to climb, they are noxious. training sideways is somewhat hard. they basically grow up adn fall and repeat.
-
3
-
-
short answer, ok. but has a risk.
long answer: ok first to compare to salvia, it cant be compared. salvia has s very succlent stem and even old growth structure is very different than a very woody hard stem like pschortira. so cutting right down the regrowth habit will be different. with only a small bit of experience and very harch fungal tropical environment here i will refrain from commenting on salvia other than it can be very bad....
brugmansia grow in a very different environment usually than psychotria. they are also spread quite commonly naturally via stem breakage and rooting, this is why in many areas of distribution brugmansia species will grow in valleys/rivers etc. they will grow well in streams, break and root and carry on. In my country they are naturalized but cannot reproduce. meaning all plants her ein the wild are started via animal and they proliferate via cuttings. here we have typhoons and crazy ass storms and they break naturally go down stream, rot and grow. i know places kilometers long where they cover the river valleys. but not one seed is ever produced. anyway, this kind of plant is easily rooted, even the bare stem in sun has pre-spooge on the stem they can rot from. psychotria can as well but not so readily or fast, so it takes more time.
So if you are worried about losing a plant, dont. the plants will normally stand for total defoliation bt i like to play safe, leave a few leaves. your purpose will also differ as to methodology. if you want to cut down to get compact growth or yo just want to harvest? we have regularly harvested everything but the tips without harm. thast for harvests. if yo want compact growth you could cut down but i dont see why? if you hack away all the foliage (thus getting a harvest) and leave the upper most pair of leaves the stems will sprout new stems and yo will still get super lush compact growth so its win win as i see it. granted with new stems the first pair or few of leaves will be smaller in size but htey get large after #2-4 node. plus small leaf size is often due to not enough shade/too much light.
in the end, if harvest is the goal, 1 good leaf is something like 0.1 gram...are you going to suffer leaving a couple leaves on to ensure the plant is happy and transporting water/nutrients and eating light? I get in the beginning we all get over excited, but the weight gain witha few leaves vs. the plants recovery time isnt worth it IMO.
-
1
-
-
Very cool, thanks for the pics! I'll check the Anadenathera book again and post some key points for ID here, i havent looked at it for a couple years. But i can say my pics above are definitely not positively identified. the peregrina came from a friend in Colombia, so I am basing that ID solely on the location the trees came from and his label. nothing more. the other "colubrina" is simply what they were sold to me as, i cant say much more, but the 2 types are fairly different from each other.
my colubrina when yong also hung sideways until some stems got woody enough. now new growth gets woody pretty quick, but side shoots tend to sag. typhoons have kicked its ass over teh years though, so honestly im shocked at how resilient they are after they get past their seedling stage.
i planted some "peregrina" along my ditch when i started my new farm about 3 years ago i guess. same seed batch as pics above. the grass/weed machine took quick care of them, hadnt seen them for ages. so last couple weeks ive been reclaiming my ditch edge from the insane grasses that have been growing there and i find a little twig of a thing with 1 leaf. amazed how well they survive, if the roots are good they just dont die.... i sent a few seeds to a member here when i got them. cant remember who or when but they did arrive, i wonder if they are grown up by now?
all my flowers are now dead and fallen off, i am not getting and seeds this run either....
Rahli, in your location is it wet/dry/cold/hot season now? I think you are in Aus, so our season will be sort of flipped around, but trying to figure out what it is they like to flower. So far i have been thinking too wet in my situation. the soil never dries out.
Lights for peres / seedlings
in Cacti & Succulents
Posted
that metal thing is essentially just acting like a radiating heat unit from the peices inside that are creating the heat. you can take those peices and place them outside the metal box with a fan blowing the heat away if its an issue. a few wont be an issue, but many peopel growing lots fo things in a room might like heat exhaust.