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oncewhywechange

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Posts posted by oncewhywechange

  1. Posted

    They drop leaf during the really cold months.  you can give it a light prune now while it's dormant which will cause no harm.   You can prune later in spring if needed. 

    • Like 1

  4. Posted

    10 hours ago, Evil Genius said:

    It's a Scale infection and secondary scarring because of the Scale. Treating the scale with a pesticide should give the plant some time to recover. 

    killing the scale will not stop the fungal infection. You need to control both.

     

    1 hour ago, sillysyban said:

    Awesome. Thanks guys. Can you recommend a good product for this?

    @Glaukus mentioned a few methods in the above comment.   You could also buy yates brand lime sulphur from bunnings. this stuff will kill your scale and will slow down or even kill the fungal infection. repeat in 14 days.  this product can only be used in winter. 

  5. Posted · Edited by motherfirefly

    18 hours ago, Glaukus said:

    Looks like two obvious issues: scale and fungal infection, maybe phytopthera.

    Treat the scale by brushing them off with a toothbrush, you can use a little isopropyl alcohol/water mixture with a drop of detergent if you like too.

    For the fungal issue, I'd get something like Yates anti rot -its a systemic fungicide using phosphorus acid so it's quite safe.

    As for the ID, I'd be leaning towards a cuzcoensis but would need a better pic of the base of the central spines. Cuzcoensis has a distinctive flared base of the central spines.

    scale yes , fungal yes. not phytophthora though.  IMO the scale has caused a fungal attack by damaging the skin.  

    • Like 1

  7. Posted

    On 11/05/2019 at 5:23 PM, Evil Genius said:

    The original plant suffers from scale, which then again causes substantial scarring. Look into pesticides against Scale, e.g. Azamax or something similar. 

    Could of been scale but the problem is a fungal issue,  You need to treat with a good fungicide. 

  9. Posted

    On 22/03/2019 at 8:57 PM, Glaukus said:

    This is all theoretical advice. Not an encouragement. But the information is out there already anyway...

    Sow your poppy seeds when ambient temperature hovers around 15°C. Sprinkle very lightly on top of raked soil, don't cover. Rows are easy to manage. You want to aim for at least 30cm spacing of plants. If more pop up and they get too crowded, thin out before they get too large.

    They are weeds. They will grow in the poorest soil imaginable, however nitrogen in the cabbage stage will make for bigger plants, and potassium at flowering encourages blooms. Sowing in autumn will result in bigger healthier plants and faster flowers in spring. Wet weather once petals fall will dilute alkaloids. Sooty mildew and poppies go hand in hand so be prepared. Once poppies have set seed, they will come up everywhere for ever and ever, the seeds spread far and wide.

    Seriously this plant is a weed, and the phrase "treat em mean" comes to mind.

     

    Now for a lecture. Please be careful. I would hate for anyone to fall onto a slippery slope that can end in misery and tragedy before you realise you're even heading down. Not to mention this is a prohibited plant to begin with. It ain't no joke.

    most of this is very good info,  I would wait a month  in northern nsw to sow, the temps are to high.  just sprinkle the seed on the surface, keep moist until they sprout and then back the water off. they grow really well amongst the cactus.   they do like a fed during the young stage but they happy to grow without it. po ash is perfect once they flower. 

    I think planthelpers climate would be very tricky to grow this species. 

    • Like 2

  10. Posted · Edited by motherfirefly

    On 01/03/2019 at 3:26 PM, Glaukus said:

    Hey there. I see this type of lumpy skin (which often goes black then turns to corking like your first photos) particularly on pachanoi and a select few bridgesii in my garden. It seems to happen in very hot weather. During summer I spread dolomite lime around my in ground plants and a few words them did this a day or two later. 

    It doesn't ever spread, it's not harmful but it's a bit unsightly. I wouldn't stress over it.

     

    Yes it is very common in Bridgesii species when it's very hot and humid. I can't see any tiny black dots amongst the infected area, which would indicate a fungal issue.  so I would say its a nutrient deficiency. Like glaukus mentioned , It a good idea to lay down some dolomite lime. backed up with a good drink of liquid po ash.  potassium helps strengthen plants, it thickens their cell walls and defends the plant against disease. Just to be on the safe side I would also give them a spray of a good fungicide because the plant is under stress which can lead to fungal attacks. 

  18. Posted · Edited by smithy

    18 hours ago, Glaukus said:

    Anyone that ignores mites is in for a real fun time.

    Sure, they get a toehold due to something being out of balance in your garden, but once they are there, if you don't take decisive action, you're gonna lose plants.

    I had spider mites for the first time this summer among my lophs. I didn't act quickly enough and guess what? I lost a bunch of rare plants. 

    Telling Dicko it's his fault and in the same breath also saying he's obsessing is not helpful and is a bit of a dick move. 

    I have never seen any mite damage on my trees. I live in the sub tropics were mites are fearless.  I am with PH on the white oil thingy. :wink: He knows a lot about khat growing and breeding.   You are right though about keeping mites in check , They can go wild and cause a world of pain.       

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