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Found 4 results

  1. I need to get some samples checked for polyploidy. Apparently the best way to do this is with a flow cytometer. I know nothing of these Anyone here ever used a flow cytometer, esp for ploidy checks? Hoping to find someone who can include my samples in a run or two. Can pool the putative polyploid samples if that makes it easier. Cash or trade- trade preferred
  2. I have an old Gelman Sciences Australia Laminar Flow cabinet class I. Model CF43S From the serial # it looks like it was made in 1988. Fuck it's been a corker of a unit. If you're purchasing one new, or even secondhand, I'd recommend them. Of course Gelman Sciences Australia no longer exists the way it did, the company still exists as Gelaire. I have yet to contact them to see if they have any info on the model, but from experience with other equipment the chances of any documentation from that era are fuckall. Last few months the fan has started to make bearing whine noises- especially when it's hot ( I don't have aircon in the lab right now, dammit ). Too broke to bring in a specific technician to replace the fan and test the filter. I'd like to at least find somewhere to buy a similar unit for cheap and install it myself, or to compare the cost of me replacing it with a non-genuine part against the cost of getting a tech down here ( incl. travel time ) to do the whole thing and under warranty I've looked online but can't find a manual, unsurprising since 1988 wasn't a great year for online PDFs ;) Anyone here working with these, or similar units who could advise? Would it be just a case of looking at the diameter of the fan and picking something off Alibaba? Brands to avoid? Anything else I need to know? Took the pre-filter off, it looks to be bolt-on. It could well be a standard blower fan and I might be able to buy something cheap and slot it in the old unit's place. As quickly as possible and on a cool day so as to prevent anything chunky from getting into the airstream/ the seals from warping. The only way to make sure it's still a closed system would be to do the old waft-with-a-stick-of-incense and to check it with some open petri dishes for 30s, 1 min, 3 min etc. And panic if I warped the seals during replacement and then fork out for a technician to visit There's a compliance and info plate which can't be seen unless I fully pull the top steel plate off the unit. If I can avoid that, I will. That shit never ends well when you're working alone and it's mission critical How realistic is this whole scenario? I know a few here have had problems with the airstream in smaller portable units when seals warp or shift and allow pathogens to find a place to live Have pics, put em up later Happy birthday to my beautiful Gelman Sciences Australia Horizontal Laminar Flow Cabinet. 30 years, 20 of them with me :D
  3. Are there any electronics geeks who can tell me why the f*k PAR meters are so expensive? The standard models don't even have a logging function FFS, and start at around AUD $300 PAR ( Photosynthetically Active Radiation ) meters measure light based on that part of the spectrum which is used for photosynthesis by plants. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photosynthetically_active_radiation Dead handy little buggers those meters. Our human irises open and close to adjust the amount of light they let in, but plants don't have this light-adjusting capacity the same way. So a plant can be getting much less useful light than we realise til we test it. Plants in tissue culture photosynthesise way less than outdoor plants because they use the sugars ( or other carbon sources ) in the media for energy. It's why we get away with using fluro tubes and get good growth. But fluro tubes lose a large proportion of their photosynthetically useful light after 3 months and need replacing- the light at those wavelengths isn't differentiated by our eyeballs, but the plants notice, believe me. I've been told that other indoor lights- metal halides for example- also lose some of their PAR strength after a period of time, but I have no experience with this. And I've seen people swear blind their plants are sick, when after careful checking their plants aren't getting enough light because they're shaded for the parts of the day when there's no-one around. This is more pronounced in winter when the days are shorter and the sun's angle of attack is different I bought plans to make a unit with an Arduino using LEDs, but it's a world of hurt for me and the tek ( to my n00b eye ) seems to be primitive and possibly inaccurate. It'll have to wait until I have some geek mates in-house for a weekend with soldering irons and whisky and those weekends never turn out the way they're planned anyhow :D Fuck it, I want a network of the little buggers with temp and PH, two sensors it's easy to build loggers with. Then I can really see what my plants are up to. Plus it could save me some $$ replacing fluros all year. And maybe save some planty lives if there are dodgy tubes in the rack Anyone know of a cheap chip that's up to the job?
  4. I have a lovely digital pH meter which has been a rock solid unit for 15 years. It's a corker But now the electrode is almost out of juice, and it isn't refillable ( I checked the manual ) 15 years is pretty good lifespan for an electrode ( I calibrate regularly ). But I priced an identical new electrode at $260 from the manufacturer pH meter has a BNC connector. There are a shit ton of aftermarket BNC connector pH electrodes on ebay for about $35 Anyone had any experience with using an aftermarket cheapie electrode attached to their lovely branded desktop pH meter? I'll do a side by side with the old electrode and a regular calibrate of course But if most people's experiences of cheap aftermarket pH electrodes is bad, I won't even bother waiting the 2 weeks for one to arrive from overseas
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