Ed Dunkel
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Posts posted by Ed Dunkel
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Has anyone had any experience naturalising native psilocybes like Psilocybe subaeruginosa, Psilocybe australiana, Psilocybe eucalypta, Psilocybe tasmaniana. Also Panaeolus and other non-psilocybes?
...And some non-natives like Psilocybe semilanceata, Psilocybe tampanensis, Psilocybe cubensis (which varieties), etc...?
Basically any sort of naturalisation and what tips and methods are usefull?
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 29 June 2000).]
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Just a word of warning!!
Be careful with some grades of ethanol (99% grades) as they contain small amounts of benzene (known carcinogen). The benzene is there as an azeotrope so it can be distilled at a different temperature for the final removal of water.
This might not be a worry as it is usually the chemical grades that have this and you probably can't buy this grade in pharmacies.
95% Ethanol (bio source) doesn't contain benzene but does have a 5% azeotropic amount of water. Which reduces its solvent properties somewhat.
What purity is the government undenatured (no additives) grade by the way?
E D
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Yeah, same thing happened with the baby buttons and with the mother. Damn hungry slugs and snails.
I don't think it seems to effect them as I have seen big snail tracks on some wild P.cubensis. Maybe they store it (like they do with most plant poisons) before they purge it.
I'm thinking peyote "poison" filled escargot in garlic sauce. Or other "poisons"
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 11 July 2000).]
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I'm not sure on the exact pH level for Lophophoras but it is suggested by most that one should add some Calcium Carbonate to the cactus mix to keep the pH a little high. Then again I have read recommendations from others that say that calcium carbonate is not necessary as they believe too high a pH will reduce nutrient uptake by their roots.
I know in Holland some mass produce these babies on normal potting mix with added grit and sand, under glass.
I think that Lophophoras naturaly grow in limestone type soils.
I hope this helps, maybe there is someone else that has more experience with these little green ones.
E D
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Thanks guys,
Yeah, I think spring is a better time to be looking for suckers and planting them as well. Only well established and protected ones make it through the winter and may flower to produce fruit. Best to getthem established after the cold frosty nights are over.
I read in several gardening guides that the 'Williams' variety they use up north for normal banana fruit production (the ones that grow to 3m or higher) have good cold tolerance down in vic.
The Chinese/Japanese/Himalayas Musa species do do well in the cold vic climate. I'll look into that, thanks.
E D
ps. Yeah, no banana aphid or virus control down here.
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Just something off of the ethnobotany/entheogen topic. Does anyone from Melbourne here know where I can buy a Musa plant. Williams variety as it handels the cold winters better? I have seen some grow in the neighbourhood maybe I'll ask them for a lump of there rhizome.
Thanks
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 02 June 2000).]
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And down here in Vic they are pretty much dormant now.
E D
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I know what you mean earthalchemist, No problemo.
And the same here jaq, your welcome.
E D
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This one maybe, Earthalchemist?
The San Pedro Fanatic Report v4.0: http://users.lycaeum.org/~iamklaus/cactindx.htm
I guess you are right Torsten, more pups will slow each others growth down. I guess a full crop of pups just looks better after 3 years of growth.
E D
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It's also a good idea to keep turning the root stock to the sun as exposure to the sun will induce pups to grow there. If you turn it you could end up with 4-6 pups if you are lucky, all around the base.
Thus you increase your crop output by double (or more)
E D
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Originally posted by mulga:Another link from a botanist at U Western Sydney.
interesting info
Peter Lister seems to be pretty knowledgeable guy in Ethnobotany, aboriginal affairs (and didj). Good thing you mentioned him, Mulga.
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 03 May 2000).]
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The San Pedro Fanatic Report has a nice list of Mescaline containing Cacti doesn't it
Hey, maybe we can get some more psychoactive cacti added onto the list, Torsten
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 01 May 2000).]
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That's alright as I just found the page where it was on
Try this page: http://users.lycaeum.org/~iamklaus/opuntia.htm
And here is the source(?) page: http://users.lycaeum.org/~iamklaus/cactindx.htm
I knew a little bit of work would get me there
E D
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Hi Ashley,
I can't seem to get onto the link:
http://www.erowid.org/plants/cannabis/cann...is_info13.shtml
E D
p.s. Sorry it worked this time
even more
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 28 April 2000).]
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Same here. Beautiful blooms and they seem to like the lower humidity here.
E D
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 28 April 2000).]
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I seem to remember that some opuntia species have small amounts of phenylethylamines like mescaline in there flesh (not fruit).
Do you know if your prickly pears contain any?
E D
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Personally my biggest T. pachanoi has got 7 ribs but I have seen a friends change from 7 to 8 ribs. Most of my little ones have 8 but a view have more or less than 8.
I think they just add or subtract ribs when they need to (i.e. growth conditions maybe, get fatter or thinner).
I have also heard of some 4 ribs changing to more ribs as they grow. I know its pretty common in other Cereus or Trichocereus species.
E D
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I just started reading some books he wrote and it does seem to be rather vague and fantasy bound. A nice story.
What is the book by Daniel C. Noel, "The Soul of Shamanism" like?
Has anyone tried Datura inoxia as a skin ointment (as witches/carlos castaneda used)?
I just thought I'd start something going in this quiet corner of the board.
E D
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Carlos Castaneda... any thoughts on the subject?
E D
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Anyone with some Datura inoxia seeds? Or is the Shaman Australis getting some, Torsten?
Ed Dunkel
[This message has been edited by Ed Dunkel (edited 26 April 2000).]
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Originally posted by earthalchemist:thanks ed ... btw, how did you find that url? it's not linked from the faq
I found the link left next to were I am typing now (in the reply post window). It's called "Smilies Legend"
E D
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Originally posted by earthalchemist:hey ed, can you show us how to do all those smilies??
Yeah sure, just type in your usual ": - )" type thing and it will turn automatically into a smiley. Or go to the "Smilies Legend at: http://www.shaman-australis.com/ubb/smilies.html
Have fun
E D
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I heard that the local aboriginals in Vic eat the seeds of the pigface plants near the coast. Are they tasty and how do you prepare them (if at all)?
Smilies testing area:
E D
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Yeah, things like Tabernaemontana orientalis, Corkwood, and any other niceties.
Again, I am looking for things that I can grow outside in Victoria's climate and some of those might be pushing it but the could be worth a try, otherwise it will have to grow indoors.
What sort of newbies will we see in your nursery, Torsten? Or are we keeping it a surprise!?!?!?!!
E D
Do Trichocereus go Dormant in Winter?
in Cacti & Succulents
Posted
My opinion is (I might be wrong here) that when they go dormant they actually just grow realy slowly and this is probably noticed with the annual thinning they show along there length.
Over the several winters that I have had my Tricho's growing outdoors I have noticed even in the dead of winter that they slowly creep on up.
On the topic of dormancy, I have read somewhere that most desert type cacti exhibit a 'dormancy' period during the hottest part of summer as a way to conserve water. And so heavy watering might result in water logging and root rot.
Personally I haven't noticed this with my T.pachanoi as they are quite resilient but I am careful with my other cacti as they show some slowing (maybe from my lack of watering/imagination).
Has anyone noticed similar behaviour?
E D