KlUe

I'm hoping its an aerial root mate I'll chop it off like Apo suggested and see how it goes. Will try to get some better close ups when I have a chance. KlUe

It is certainly a weird situation haha, ah well, i'll let you know how it goes mate. Cheers again for the help KlUe

Cheers for that mate I'm not sure why but i've only really done the top verm casing after the first flush. Not sure if that is the norm but its just been my method. Maybe because it makes it look messy in the grow chamber with vermiculite everywhere haha.

Might try that then. Is it ok for the 'possible rooted part' to be on top though, thats why I suggested planting horizontally. I'm finding it hard to believe how it could be a root on the top of the cutting though lol Cheers for the replies Apo, champion

Yeah mate at the tip,Sorry for the confusion lol. I'll give it a cut tonight and see how we go. One question though... Because the possible root is at the tip, after it callouses, shall I plant it horizontally?

Hi mate, its already been planted, i've put it in the ground where the cutting was taken from (was a pup from a mother i'm presuming) - I know that the bottom part is the one thats in the soil - thats why I'm not sure if it is a root or not as its rooted at the TOP of the cutting

Good idea mate. How much do you think I should chop off if it was a root? I guess trying Apo's idea would kill two birds with one stone

Mate unfortunately can't advise on correct action with that loph, but in regards to focusing the camera, try using macro mode. If this isn't available or doesn't work for you, as gerbil said, try different shooting modes. I find with my digi cam that zooming in while taking the pic further away is better quality than taking the pic closer with the zoom out. But then again for those extra close shots I have a "super macro mode" which means I can basically have the lens touching the cacti and it'll focus perfectly.

Yeah mate, was considering the root thing too, it was actually my first idea. But then I found out that they were fresh cuts just prior to posting out to me, so I don't think this is possible that quickly? But yeah thats what I thought new roots trying to come through looked like... Cheers mate, I just hope its okay!

Thanks for your help mate - i'm pretty new to the cacti scene. Since I cut it a couple weeks ago it doesn't look like its spread or gotten any worse, so I might wait and see if there are any noticible changes before I cut any more off the top.

It is possible mate, I don't really wanna disturb it too much though, it looks alot bigger than the width of a spike too, even if it was a big one.. Although it'd probably try and callous around it - but yeah I'm quite sure there isn't anything in there

Ok all.. Finally, i've birthed 3 out of the 4 cakes. The other cake was sliced up and broken into some chunks to cover a 1 litre capacity black plastic tray. I used a 50/50 peat/vermiculite mix, and also tried a small amount of moist rice flour over the top level (which is purely experimental), with a little bit of dry verm on top. It looks like a mould but its only rice flour btw Substrate was sterilized in the microwave for 5 minutes and then let to cool. My only doubt is that the vermiculite was a different brand than my usual and it is much finer than i'd have liked. So this is going to turn out to be my new experiment.. At the moment i've got some plastic wrap over the tub (My other humidity dome is in use for a few more days with some seedlings), but it will go in there soon. KlUe [edit] typos

Yes you are correct, they can make a fair deal of heat. But compared to the 400W HPS i've heard about him running, its not nearly as heated in his growroom. The FOAF is only using a mini desk fan for plant fanning, and 2 oversized PC fans (from his local hydro store) which circulate the air inside the cupboard. This is aired out a couple times a day and heat never reaches over 30 degrees - although he prefers the cooler times of the year due to heating of the room that the cupboard is located in during the hotter period.. As for the yields, obviously the HPS in the end will own - but I was referring to mini stealth grows. When OG got shutdown, unfortunately his grow log went with it Your power supply may run at 850w - peak power. So unless you're doing full time max CPU usage (eg. encoding/decoding DVDs all day) and/or serious graphical work 24/7, i'm pretty sure it would be usually running half that. And yeah man... My two aquariums take a helluva lot of power too, 2 x 300w heaters (which are killers in winter), not to mention the fluoros which are 320w or so in each ballast!

Im not entirely sure how true that is.. Although don't quote me on this... But I've been under the impression for quite some time that the more power you use the better money they make.... Anyways main reason fluoros are a better advantage is that they create much less heat (especially cool whites) than a HPS or MH light - which is perfect for those stealth grows, as proper ventillation isn't as necessary. KlUe

Mate i've not had the same problem, but i'm quite experienced in "stealth grows"..... I've got a FOAF who i've advised on converting a closet/wardrobe into a mini growroom. Don't necessarily need in/out vents either - just a couple of fans blowing on your greenery to keep their stems strong. A wide range of fluoros can be used very successfully in grows. Currently he has 4 x T5 fluoros (36-40w), 1 x 135W "compact fluoro" style in winged reflector, 3 x 45W compact fluoros (also using a few smaller 28W fluoros in bedside lamps (with the clips for easier placement). These are successfully lighting up to 3 or 4 adult "special tomatoes". Spectrums are varied with mostly cool whites used for vegetative growth and a few replaced with primarily warm whites during flowering cycle. Odor control is being overcome with 2 or 3 plug-in style fragrance devices (with the mini fans) inside the area, as well as 1 in the room holding the closet/wardrobe, and then another in the hallway outside the room. These can be adjusted for how strong they output fragrance. I'm sure your peyote would love this setup also.

Insane. I want one

http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story...67-1702,00.html Event organisers claim the aussie flag won't be displayed this year as it would cause gang and racial violence. What a joke.

Sweet, cheers Auxin

Hi all, I'm interested in hearing any information and if anyone has any good/bad feedback with this plant? I've found some limited information on Erowid, but it looks like this plant is not well documented. It seems intriguing in its effects, as well as the yellow/green visual after effects, that may be why it is known as the sun opener.. So i've bought a couple of plants on Swapnsell to see how it goes. Cheers, KlUe

Jesus, MH can be better for vegative growth on plants as it is a better spectrum for this, whereas HPS is better for flowering (which is why they are very popular growing fruits/vegetables, cannabis etc). I've heard successful stories for both though, so I guess cacti don't mind either. I wanted to ask though, is it really worth spending the amount you do on your electricity bill for cacti under lights? When I was running my 400W HPS with some fluoros, fans, airpump, water pump etc. it put a massive dent on my bill! In no way am I disagreeing because i've not seen a huge amount of people do it.. Can anyone 'shed some light'? Pics?

Aha u got to it before I edited, wasn't trying to have a go at you, was just clearing up for ppl who didnt know about the hiding CC feature Anyways I think this thread should be ended, too much anger going on here!

Hm I think this is has turned into yet another soap type thread - cmon guys its a community based ethno forum!! We should be respecting each other and supporting our plant growing hobbies rather than petty arguing, it achieves nothing but negative views on ppl!

Yeah but there is a "hide" option for CC, i'm assuming this should be working.

Dude that photo is one of the best panoramics I've seen for a long while!!

Ok another update all... Finally, the glasses are almost done - I'll give it another 3-4 days to fully thicken up and spread across the substrate evenly. There are a few random patches that haven't yet spread on a couple of the glasses, so i'll be waiting for them all to be ready until birthing time. As for the suspected contam, it seems to have disappeared, so its good news for all cakes so far. Anyways as you can see in the pics they're almost done. KlUe