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Jonny Deformed

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Posts posted by Jonny Deformed

  2. Posted

    OPPOSED TO FORCED WATER FLUORIDATION ?

    WE NOW HAVE LESS THAN 2 WEEKS TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE!

    Some Queensland Politicians say they have received only a few complaints about water fluoridation! We need to act now, don’t let this week go by without doing the following:

    § Write to your local Parliamentarian to complain; see contact details at www.qawf.org

    § e-mail all 89 QLD MPs easily using the web site tool kit ! ( under tools for fighting fluoridation )

    § There are only a few steps you need to do - we have made it even easier with link below

    http://www.qawf.org/pages/email.html

    ( if not live when clicked on , paste into your browser ) this will take you to a page with links with a short preloaded letter, or you can edit or delete this letter and copy and paste in your own letter. You can email all the Queensland MPs in minutes.

    Write to the Premier : Office of the Premier, PO Box 15185 City East, Qld 4002

    Do it now – we DO have time to make a difference

    sent on behalf of Queenslanders Against Water Fluoridation Inc [email protected]

    feel free to phone anytime 07 3879 1080 mob 0418 777 112

  10. Posted

    Here are my babies.

    This is one of four normal bridg pups, only this one has decided to give the spikes a miss. Interesting, hopefully it will keep it up.

    post-2583-1189929676_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929473_thumb.jpg

    I'm guessing this is the true "Penis cactus" form. I'm hoping it just keeps on going.

    post-2583-1189929508_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929473_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929508_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929676_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929473_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929508_thumb.jpg

    post-2583-1189929676_thumb.jpg

  14. Posted · Edited by JD.

    Personally don't think waiting till pinage in the jars is a good idea.

    You'll get a far better pin set if introduced to fruiting conditions once the jar is 100% colonized but before visible pins.

    Wet verm is good on top.

    You could even use 50/50 Verm peat moss.

    Or you could just case. Its really not hard.

    Unless you like the look of cakes obviously.

  15. Posted

    the weather's getting colder and I'm trying to keep my FC at a decent temp. I'm using light to keep the temp up, but that doesn't really help if the cakes need darkness for 12 hours a day or whatever.

    so that's the question, we know that they need a certain amount of light every day, but do they also need a minimum amount of darkness as well? i'll just leave the light on the whole time if not and my temp problems will be solved. i'm really wondering what's going on here it's been about 10 days since birthing and nada so far...

    What temps are you experiencing?

    Keep up the fresh and they'll be pinning within two weeks IME, cakes or casings.

    Also they only need a fraction of a second of light to trigger pinning but the main triggers are fresh air increase, full colonization and temp drop.

    The light simply directs the mushrooms, they grow towards it.

  20. Posted

    Hi guys, a few questions regarding a 50/50 casing (verm/peat)

    Standard PF cakes will be used

    the tek: http://www.shroomery.org/54/50-50-Casing-Tek

    Firstly, a casing like this is to essentially create one big flat cake right?

    So, about 1/2" of 50/50 wet mix at the bottom, then three inches of cakes on top, then about 3/4" more 50/50 wet mix on top?

    Same water as used for the substrate wetting i'm assuming?

    This casing should be in a non-translucent container, is a cake backing tray (aluminium or stainless steel) alright?

    Once the casing is prepared, put the tray on top of moistened perlite in a tub and give indirect sunlight, that's it?

    Regarding the cakes, wait till they are fully colonized and then case? ie: don't induce pinning

    Let the mycelium take over the upper casing layer and then pinning starts itself?

    Sorry for all the questions, these are just things i'm not entirely sure of

    One more, sterilizing the casing material, could the mix be put in a glass jar and sterilized in the same way as the substrate was? I'm assuming so...

    :) thanks

    Edit: One more :wink: should the cakes be cased or should they just be birthed?? Obviously the objective is higher yield, more flushes, better technique. Not necessarily ease. 6 x 250mL cakes are being colonized at the momo, maybe that'll be too much for the baking tray anyway! Well on that note, does the casing need to finish flush with the top of the container used or can it overflow?

    Haven't read all the above so excuse me if i repeat what others have said.

    Firstly a Casing should not be flat but airy and fluffy, with vally's for the primodia to form.

    I personaly don't use a bottom layer since its yet another vector for contams.

    Birth the fully colonized cake, put it into a large ziplock bag and fill with distilled water. Let soak for 12 hours or so (This is Dunking)

    You're right about the non-translucent container but i've seen myc eat through aluminium. Any non-translucent container with the right dimentions will do though. You want a minimum of 2" substrate and 1/2" Fluffy casing layer sprinkled on top. Do not pat down.

    Oxegen, Light and temp drop are all fruiting triggers. I've heard you only really need less than a second of light to trigger pinning, light is more of a growing direction guide.

    I sterilize the casings in the microwave for 10 minutes. mixing at 5. Be sure to hydrate first.

    Birth, Dunk, Crumble, Case, Fruit.

    Simple.

    Hope this helps

  22. Posted

    Jesus man yeah totally kill my idea!

    I spoke to a pet shop just then apparently there are huge fines and possibly jail time for doing such a thing.. bummer hey

    If it could be controlled, it would be an awesome pet to have indeed, i've missed 5-meo for too long !! this would be the ultimate pet to have :)

    Ahh well, we'll see.. we'll just see...

    Do not cane toad contain the compounds you seek?

  24. Posted

    JD, I'm still curious as to what/when you're feeding the plant. A couple of dilute doses of charlie carp over the next fortnight will transform those buds into leaves in no time.

    All my plants get splash of charlie carp in a 5 litre watering can every couple of weeks.

  25. Posted

    FeloniousMonk's Kick Ass Plant Tonic: cures what ales ya.

    1 tsp/gal. castille soap

    1 tsp/gal. humic or fulvic acid

    1 tsp/gal. kelp or seaweed extract

    1-3 tsp/gal. neem oil

    The soap spreads it, the kelp cures deficiency(esp micronute-likely with veinal yellowing,) the humic makes it absorb better, the neem kills/sterilizes critters, including mites. Apply once a week for three weeks in the cool/shade of the afternoon. Rinse leaves with plain water mid week in between applications. Oh, yeah, its best to use distilled water. Not only will the problem go away, they'll grow like crazy. Created this for some special flowering annuals I used to know :wink:

    Cheers for that FeloniousMonk. Ill be sure to give it ago.

    Is there anywhere you can suggest that stocks all the items in this concoction?

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