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The Corroboree

gerbil

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Posts posted by gerbil


  1. Struggling to get representative shots and clear. This more along the lines of what you wanted MS?

    They should blow up a little larger in the gallery by right clicking and selecting 'large' or view image in browser.

    Base of column coming out of long spine base

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    Mid column areole sections, various 'types' of areoles/spines.

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    • Like 1

  2. I've been meaning to post the long spines for a while now, was just never happy with the photos as they didn't portray them very well and was unsure as to what I was trying to ID or compare it with and the limitations and mountain of work needed for just a snapshot in taxonomy.

    I thought someone else would definitely talk about it, the only thing I vaguely remember is you or trout possibly saying we know the PC had something with a long yellow spine in it's lineage. I need to dig that reference up.

    Yes absolutely the long spine shows up at the swollen plant bases, generally around 5-10" from soil level, I call them secondary or tertiary spines. The areoles can also be quite proud/extruded, full and fluffy similar to newer growth hardened peruvianus.

    In certain sections, array of spines can exhibit swollen spine base like Super Pedro and what EG was talking about with cuzcoensis in the 'all about girth' thread http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41478

    All three of the plants in the picture exhibit the long spine to an extent.

    I've got other big PC types in slightly different microclimates that I haven't checked yet, their access is getting a little difficult.

    Yep am sure they are the same plant. I've a heap of other good stem and flower photos but I can't differentiate what stem is what out of the three plants as i'm trying to stick with 1 plant for the moment to save confusion. Will grab some more shots.


  3. I've limited access to a quality camera for a while, will have to go through older photos. Have a little camera buts it's being difficult.

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    This is the best I can do for now for a tip.

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    Above photos are the first plant in this next photo. There are 3 plants, from 3 different sources, the furthest one in the photo is the 'fremantle clone'. All look essentially the same, flowers synchronise and look the same from brief observations, don't appear to cross pollinate with each other, accept donor pollen, large fruits.

    gallery_239_3_90323.jpg

    • Like 1

  4. Shit hot getafix, you can see the bridge screaming in those genetics and it's starting to look like kimnach/ecuadorian/peru pachanoi. I adore kimnach pachanoi, but I reckon your's is even a little purdier. Super Pedro is such impressive breeding stock.

    • Like 1

  5. Different sounds depending on how and what they are made from, they can be a bit like fox whistles but they've got more of a hollywood classic screaming skull drone about them, or more of a hollow low dry breath rasp, just perfect tribal psychological warfare. I'm keen to make one for foxes for something a little different.

    I really like your Pounamu Toki 3 photo teo, they look like old sailors paintings of ocean storms, you can stare into those pieces infinitely, the brown string is a little deeper, but they've both got distinctness.

    Keen to see you peyote results, going to be a stunner.

    • Like 1

  6. People have gardens with plants to attract birds, I wonder if I could plant one that attracts people of different nationalities. Sounds like a great way to make international friends without having to leave the house.

    Of course, it occurs constantly. You can even tweak it to attract cultural groups within broader nationalities. We are nature, no different to birds.

    Khat attracts interested Africans/Arabs

    Curry plant attracts interested Asian/Indians

    Oniony mustardy greens interested Asians

    Tomatoes/peppers/eggplant/olive/fennel attracts interested Europeans

    Nuts/Fruits -Europeans, Arabs, older English/Australian Europeans.

    The list goes on and on, plants connect with people and if a plant occurs where you do, or if you put it there, chances are you will encounter the people with connection to the plants. Some cultures have a higher number of people with connections, and some cultures have the same plants but different connections.

    Some cultures may be pushier than others, some may be sneakier, mostly it's the individuals personality and their understanding and respect of cultural law/values, time living within a given new society is also an influence. Some do it deliberately, some aren't aware it's rude to behave the way they do, some are on the same wavelength and no worries.

    • Like 4

  7. I've no idea on the validity of it, though it's based around the conversion of Ibotenic acid and Muscimol. My vague non-referenced understanding (don't take seriously! use as a stepping stone) is that Ibotenic acid is converted to muscimol via decarboxylation with heat. The introduction of carbonated beverages is thought to have the potential to carboxylate the muscimol back to Ibotenic acid.

    It would be great to have knowledgeable chem folk clarify this a little. I was under the vague understanding that carboxylation is a lot trickier than decarboxylation.

    Either way, I think it's worth people (myself included if I am to comment!) read up on their state and federal laws. From memory Ibotenic acid and muscimol were both listed individually, so possesion of fresh or dried specimens of A. muscaria would be illegal.

    • Like 2

  8. There seems to be more availability of guano in Australia these days, still difficult generally and possibly mainly in bulk sacks.

    The easiest and smallest option is probably Richgro Phosphorous, 2.5kg, available at the big fucked up green shed. No idea on the animal source, bat, seabird etc.

    Just be careful with it as with anything you buy. Nutrient knowledge and need of use is so messed up these days, companies are producing fertilisers with way outta whack nutrient ratios that do more harm than good.

    • Like 3

  9. Will be in the post this afternoon. Let me know if any issues with them or they're crushed/lost.

    The obtusifolia seed has been slowly gone through to knock out any dud seed at time of harvest, but I did find a dud seed today, dead-embryo floater with a tiny insect hole, you shouldn't get them, but if so let me know and i'll fix ya up.

    HolographicYou, I need your address :rolleyes:, it's a simple process.


  10. It's doing my head in not being able to find the notes, I swear there were 2 different timed flower cycles noted over a few years with some erratic seasons which confused things, but the only photos I can find are early summer blooms and memories of 'don't need to take a photo will remember this' :BANGHEAD2: so I could be full of shit with no pods on summer flowers, I just can't remember how the bumper crops came through the heat as I recall watching bean set and growth, but memories of summers dropping all spikes. (getting better with notes these days haha)

    Take toby's advice as a bit more rational :wink: It will be interesting to see what the late March flowers will do, if the spring warmth brings them on early for late spring early summer, or if it'll push to mid to late summer harvest.


  11. Without rambling too much, I think it's primarily environmental with low humidity, high heat and drying winds over summer that cause pod burnoff or lack of set.

    Slightly off the summer pod burnoff topic, small changes in environment can have fairly distinct outcomes, change aspect, shade cover, heat etc and it can be a whole new thing, i've got big older more shaded plants haven't had a hint of forming spikes ever, but turn the corner and younger plants have flowered and seeded for years.

    Nutrition of both soil and tissue is an important factor as 'healthy' looking plants may be sitting on the edge of what they need, put forth some pressure on them and they won't perform, though a plant with everything it needs, even though it may look the same as the other, has the potential to laugh off the pressure and continue to do it's thing.

    Nice flowers!

    It's interesting how they do that, either hold inflorescence for months, or hold a 'dormant' pod, (embryonic diapause, did the mammals teach the mimosaceae or vice verse LOL) either way it works out very similarly, dormant pod starting to grow in March/April, the held inflorescence flowers, sets and grows at the time of the dormant awakening.

    Keep an eye on yours for a late October / November harvest, you more than likely will get seed as they are beaning up nicely mate, nice little fatties.

    I'm struggling to find my notes (isn't that frustrating) on flowering cycles and behaviours of obtusi around my area. I would have some better info for you if I can find that, it's not much, just more refined with observations and flowering cycles.

    Nice to see ya 'round fezza, am impressed with your efforts all 'round.

    • Like 1
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