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The Corroboree

gerbil

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Posts posted by gerbil

  2. Posted

    i've got mine in the ground, probably a 4-5 year old plant, we receive frosts which differ in severity over the years, strong frosts but not ridiculous. I like to cut mine back to a bit above ground level once or twice a year after fruiting or if leggy, and they reshoot to a good bushy 2ft in no time. Very easy plants to grow.

  4. Posted

    yeah too much experience over here too, breaks your heart, lost 2 balls of ceaspitosa about a month back, a good 7" diameter+ on both, from the inside out, probably at union, all salvaged bits rotted over the following weeks.

    My perpesctive it'll be a challenge, do-able but sometimes just outta your control, some of the healthiest heads i've had have re-infected before, good luck :)

  5. Posted

    I reckon it was a combination of alcohol synergy, adrenaline and taking too much of a good thing, even if the latter dosage was perceived to be large or small, i don't think many people grasp the strength, particularly the same material in different contexts. An overdose imo can be as simple as a puff, then the substance gets the blame with adulterants etc, where in reality the dosage was too high for the context.

  6. Posted

    lol well there goes go-go's question just as i hit reply

    toast of course you are very free to do what you please, but to me this plant is an example of where i think we should be supporting the person/people who created it by making a purchase instead of trades, at least at this young stage in it's existence, just my opinion. :)

  7. Posted

    Only had a chance for a brief look in some books, might not be karroo as the spines are different from info atm.

    The planting thing intrigued me too, am pretty sure the karroo thorn , camel thorn etc. Acacia are on the eradication list in most states if not all?

    Where abouts did this fella source his material? Local wild seed collections, nursery?

    Tripsis your ones possibly are Acacia drepanolobium.

  12. Posted

    does look scale-ish, but to me leans more towards one of the black rots. Should heal up okay, but get that thing rooted as it's looking very dehydrated and stressed with the pup sucking it's stored energy.

    Funny thing with some black rot spots over the years, well what i think have been black rot spots, was being able to pick them off like scale, some even had taproot like appendages, unless they were a different type of scale? but from their progression it seemed to start as a subcuticle blackening (sometimes firstly just a clearish blister), which upon partial drying could be dug/scratched off. They were observably different from the outer cuticle scale i've had.

    I don't recommend digging out black rot spots, it was more a learning situation.

  13. Posted

    the online store in aus, everten, seems to have good dexter prices if you are interested ed, have only had experience with one style of that brand, though found the workmanship fairly inconsistent, embossed engraving poor and different over two of the same, wood not really cut/finished overly well (not that i was really expecting perfection for the price), but still feel and work really well, overall i was still very happy.

    Thanks for your suggestions of experience as i've been pondering a set of skinners for rabbits to deer and these look like a well priced addition. Thanks.

  14. Posted

    certainly do pd, not much to see, but suppose i'm pretty used to them all :) will have to organise something one day when the time's right :D

    had bugger all growth on everything this year, only things that really had an okay one were established ground planted PC, been a funny one this year.

    mutant the rot seems to be healing so won't be getting cut again, most plants i find bitter, don't think i've really had any that aren't?

    cheers trips, will get a couple more up eventually.

  18. Posted

    Rot.

    Lost two very large balls of ceaspitosa grafts on pachanoi stocks, around 10-15cm pachanoi stock completely rotten into soil level, and rot running internally through the scions, large orange rot infestation by the looks of it on both. Trying to salvage the large heads, but not much to work with. :BANGHEAD2:

    Found the shorter spine bridge bent over again not long ago from high winds, rebent it up without snapping, but due to soil moisture / weather during the time, internal tissue damage led to black rot setting in over the next few weeks.

    Removed a meter or so of tip in case i lost the plant and to reduce top weight, but it seems the rot is slowing up at the moment and hopefully will fully recover.

    gallery_239_3_24745.jpg

  22. Posted

    good one fenris, i really like your myco thinking, simple less stress solutions for larger potential.

    Dunking is a real pain and i've been playing with different dunking tank designs for different growth methods, all which are still non-desireable, but this idea is much better for the context, takes away so much hassle/mess/stress/resource use and increases the benefits without screwing with the substrate structure during growth/fruit phase. :worship:

  23. Posted · Edited by gerbil

    howdy chap, you can get all sorts of formulas / brands it seems from hardware stores and garden centres, there seems to be so much stuff out these days with every manufacturer wanting a slice, few years back it seemed you couldn't get anything, now it's an hour of reading labels and trying to reach the top shelf for even more products.

    Here's an online one which may be what you are chasing, http://www.neemoil.com.au/index.php

    Else depending on pest you can make up sprays at home from various cooking and dishwashing oils / soaps / milks / flours / botanical oils of herbs etc.

    Seems home made broad spectrum sprays sorta aim to suffocate, clag walking, clag mouthpieces, topically and systemically toxify, sometimes it seems it's good to keep things wet and then wash it off, sometimes good to let things dry and then wash it, i.e. some of the milk / flour mixes seem to aim to kill via restriction of the insect once it dries.

    You generally should always make sure the plant itself is well hydrated before and during spraying, especially if aiming to let the spray dry on it else you can hurt the plant further.

    edit: this is one brand i've been seeing in stores, https://www.ecoorganicgarden.com.au/main.php?id=1

    eco-oil, eco-neem etc...

    I never really buy sprays, but recently thought i'd try one product in these sorta new oil ranges available, i've been using 'natrasoap' 'potassium salts of fatty acids', which does work with repeated application, yet i've found can cause burning particularly with sensitive plants / parts like flowers, young shoots etc, particularly if let slightly dry out, even when spraying at low concentrations the air felt fairly caustic i reckon.

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    Am pretty similar to the above but I mash em up in a long glass of water and let it ferment overnight or over a few days, you get to know sweet spots with the smells it produces, but leave it too long and lotsa fungal/bacterial competitors form a layer on the foam.

    I repeat the process on the chunks that still have seeds in, won't ferment so much after that but running a similar process over shorter times at this stage.

    Generally do a few final rinses of clean seed in long glass, swirling quickly then tipping out the elevated sediment (seeds drop to the bottom a fraction before the sediment) and repeating, leaves nice clean seed.

    Put onto baking paper in wet clumps, smeared out best as possible and then smeared again when drier, then leave air dry for a few days until satisfied, bagged and reopened over the next week or so in case any moisture is still there, then sealed for longer term storage if needed.

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