Myeloblast
-
Content count
159 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Posts posted by Myeloblast
-
-
A. agavoides
A. retusus v. confusus x fissuratus v. lloydii
cv. Godzilla
A. fissuratus v. lloydii x cv. Godzilla
Looking like one of these is developing into a nice variegate...not 100 % sure though, any opinions?
-
19
-
-
-
Took some pics recently:
These are updated photos of some plants I posted earlier in this thread:
-
8
-
-
I've grafted a couple A. asterias and L. diffusa's to peresk, no problems to speak of, but only 2-3 individuals of each; haven't tried the others you mentioned. They might not be as compatible as other species though
-
1
-
-
I'm really not saying either is better, it just depends on the end goal of the graft. I have used seleni and hylo both, I really like seleni, I just don't have the numbers of stock or the experience like I do with peresk, and even if I did, I'd still use peresk to produce growing points for regrafting to myrtillo, stenocereus, and seleni for the smallest ones.
I really don't have a problem with plants stalling on peresk either, maybe 1 in 20 grafts, which I end up just throwing away or recutting onto a different stock. I agree with Spine Collector it probably has to do with vascular alignment, contamination on the cut surfaces, or maybe the peresk stock wasn't growing well to begin with.
Spine Collector: I'm speaking only of seedling grafts, I've only attempted two tubercle grafts onto trichs, one of which took and one didn't. The one that took hasn't done anything and not really optimistic about it lol. I'll reserve tubercle grafting for emergency situations only I think, they seem to produce mixed results at best.
I don't intentionally cut low on the seedling, I go for straight down the middle, but I would guess that the tissue of the lower part of the plant does contain lots cells capable of differentiating into new shoots. I'm not a botanist so this is just conjecture lol, but that appears to be the case. I say this because I've grafted both ends of a cut seedlings to peresk several times now, and the results seem to go one of two ways:
The top produces a single head, that might pup from areoles, but not from around the graft union like you see in my pictures above. The bottom half will throw out lots of pups though
or, The top produces lots of pups at the base near the graft union, and the bottom half does nothing and stalls, as if you left it without the cells capable of differentiation into new shoots.
I plan to try and cut seedlings on a diagonal next time I do a batch, and try to get massive pupping from both ends of the seedling.
Found this guy had germinated yesterday, seems like a good candidate
seed from a retusus x agavoides plant, open-pollinated
I think the single head arios look best personally, but I like the multi-headed look too if it's not horribly monstrose-looking; like the 'confusus' you posted is a very nice plant
It doesn't look especially confusus to me, tubercles are too fat and wide rather than slender, pointed, they also point down more than up. A hybrid with furfuraceus maybe? -
I wouldn't be using pereskiopsis to graft if I was looking for a more natural appearance to the plant, the goal is propagation. This gives me 5-10 growing points from a single seedling, each of which will be regrafted to permanent stock when big enough. Then they all start to look more normal.
-
I just read on another forum the other day that if you graft an ario seedling low, meaning to get part of the root, that its much more likely to
put on multiple heads (and that makes sense because of how they pup)... so far I have one that did that looks pretty cool but it was not intentional
Here's a few of mine that pupped as you describe, both of these are variegated plants. Also happened unintentionally for me, but on a lot of plants I grafted. Easier to produce with very young seedlings I think, or just inversion grafting of the bottom half of the plant if you cut it a little higher. Its a great way to increase plant numbers from very few seedlings
kotschoubeyanus v. elephantidens x (fissuratus v. intermedius x trigonus)
-
11
-
-
Received mine a few days ago. Thanks EG!
-
My iguana has eaten all of the leaves off of pereskiopsis that I've left in a place he could get to. He's occasionally bitten into other soft-bodied cacti too, but I don't think he enjoys the taste lol
For the most part though, he doesn't go for cacti, or agaves which I have a lot of
-
1
-
-
That's a sad sight Sabry, never fun to lose a plant, much less an Ariocarpus. I was repotting some Ariocarpus today and found that one of my bravoanus had begun to rot from the taproot up. The nursery I bought it from had it in a soil mix with waaay too much organic material and I waited too long to repot it
I was happy to find this though:
retusus x agavoides fruit, unknown father
-
3
-
-
@myeloblast You have an amazing collection. Your Lloydii look almost like haworthia plants haha. on the note of Trigonus and confusus though: To my understanding they are both sub species of retusus. At least according to E. F. Anderson, read the first paragraph which is the summary it says trigonus is a sub species of retusus
http://www.living-rocks.com/anderson.htm
That website has the most up to date info i can find on Ariocarpus other than a few minor things.
Interesting article, something I hadn't read before. Makes sense, but virtually no one actually refers to their plants as such (I can think of only 1 exception at the moment). Why not use it yourself, when referring to your seedling here?
-
Ariocarpus has to be my favorite genus too..here's some from my collection:
various Ariocarpus fissuratus plants
A. fissuratus v. lloydii plants
pair of A. fissuratus v. bravoanus plants
A. fissuratus v. Godzilla
A. retusus plants
A. retusus v. furfuraceus
A. retusus v. maruibo
A. trigonus (trigonus is considered its own species, whereas confusus is not...at least that's my understanding and current opinion)
Few hybrids planted together
Some seedlings
More hybrids, seedlings, and grafts to come
-
10
-
-
Looks more like an ugly A. asterias v. kikko oobi or something similar, to me...what makes you think it might be crossed with loph? Tufts of wool aren't unheard of on asterias
-
My choices would be Juul's Giant x Kimnach and C. annum "Medusa", but not sure how the first come first serve works with a random drawing? If djmattz0r is drawn before me but I was drawn later, he would get that packet, correct?
If that's the case, my 2nd choice would be C. annum "Medusa" and Heirloom Lettuce
Number #3
-
The spines indicate it's a hybrid, since myrio has none. most likely has at least ornatum in it
Nice fukuryu though, as well as those variegates hostilis
-
1
-
-
I've seen the Echeveria's and Aloe's painted like this before, but no cacti yet. Monstrosities they are, and not in a good way. The labels are definitely Altman's. Why not get a plastic plant if you want it to look like this...the new growth makes it look obviously painted and tacky
-
2
-
-
Stenocereus griseus
Excellent grafting stock
Stetsonia has much longer, thicker white spines
-
2
-
-
EG, do you add the quartz stone before or after germination? And if before, do you sow seeds on top of the quartz?
I typically add a layer of some type of stone after germination, but it can be time-intensive.
-
Love the M. madisoniorum and F. castanea. Been intending to add both to my collection for a while now. Not to mention the astro's, Good work
-
1
-
-
3 flowered at the same time and I hand pollinated them and only this one is producing fruit (yet)
Were all 3 A. fissuratus or are these hybrid seeds? Nice haul either way
How old is your grafted plant?
One of my grafted Arios Flowered last season and 2 out of 3 blooms produced fruits... they're still stuck on there too...
nothing else would have pollinated unless they can cross with turbs so I guess this one is self fertile
What species of ariocarpus was this? Just curious
-
magical9, do you have a pic of the soil itself? I use Foxfarm soils as well, haven't found anything better at this point. I'm always interested in new commercial soils to some day make my life easier so I don't have to mix it myself, but I'm usually disappointed. Like the Black Gold brand of cactus mix, the bag says it's up to 40 or 50% pumice, so I purchased some, only to find out there's no way it had even 20% pumice in it and tons of bark and wood chips instead
-
I bottom water all my pereskiopsis, they sit in clear plastic trays all the time. I just flood the tray and they soak it up. The potting mix used and the number/size of drainage holes in the pot play a big part in how well they wick up water. When the mix dries out completely, you have to raise the water level more for it to wick up water adequately, at least in my experience.
-
1
-
-
I like the idea hh, wish I had time to do that. The name of the game for me is simplicity and low maintenance. Barely have time to take care of what I've got as it is
-
1
-
-
They're under 4x 4ft T8 lights, anywhere from 1/2" to 2 inches away. When you say burn, do you mean turn red or actually burn and callous? I let them be as red as they want when grafted to peresk, and they will grow through it. After a month or so they seem to adjust well and really take off.
Edit: here's a look at the top shelf of my prop. box
-
1
-
Grafts -Photos & Updates
in Cacti & Succulents
Posted
Polaskia and Stenocereus look very similar and are closely related. This is from wiki:
"Polaskia (named after American amateur Charles Polaski) is a genus of tree-like cacti reaching 4–5 m high, comprising 2 species. Both present primitive characteristics, but Polaskia chichipe is nearer to Myrtillocactus while Polaskia chende is nearer to Stenocereus. The genus is found in the Mexican states of Puebla and Oaxaca."
I can't tell the difference really...I'm curious if there's something specific about the plant that makes you think Stenocereus over Polaskia? Would be nice to know
I've been using them as grafting stock lately too, been pretty happy with the results. Altman's put out tons of them for sale this year, and not so many Myrtillo's