Myeloblast

Update on Godzilla x Godzilla Another plant from different source: Normal fissuratus for comparison Godzilla x lloydii, I like this plant a lot, the texture is very cool A. retusus v. pectinatus A. retusus v. furfuraceus Two plants of A. retusus v. confusus x A. fissuratus v. lloydii from SS seed:

Validus x Op. about half of these seedlings were very lightly colored. This is the best of those grafted, it's a very lime green color Here's another from the same seeds, but the color is nowhere near as nice

An update on the koh-yo graft, it's slowly changing from the orange/red to yellow/green The variegate from above, turns out it was a buried graft rather than a true degraft. Regrafted it to make 3 new plants You can see the peresk., still trying to grow roots upside down And a few other astro's I now have:

I can't emphasize enough how much I hope for the same lol

Mine's going pretty weird at the moment, hoping it stays weird for a while. Also picked up at lowe's, from Altmans It wasn't the focus of this picture, but shows the earlier growth's rib play pretty well

Looks kind of like a T. fulvilanus, but I don't have a great eye for trich's

Yea, the excerpt quoted by hookahead sounds as though this was an offering from the Huntington botanical gardens, and was likely published in the CSSA journal. I highly doubt they would be misleading in their offerings

I have the same plant hostilis, it bloomed in about 4 or 5 weeks from start to finish last year. It has at least 2, maybe 3 buds forming right now for me Lower average temps or other stress could always slow or stall development though, so it's hard to say with much certainty

My limited experience with Lithops has been the same as Sally. Killed the first couple I owned with their first watering. The ones I have now I've never watered at all and they look very happy.

I happened to sow Aztekium hintonii and ritteri from Koehres as well about the same time you did Philocacti. Just saw the first one germinate yesterday, at least I think it was a plant. Could've been a green grain of sand, as algae seems to be taking over the surface of the pot. Was going to attempt to graft it since I'm sure it would die otherwise, so I got some tweezers under it only to drop it and never find it again. Doubt it would've been possible anyway... Guess I'll have to try again lol, with more than 10 seeds of each

Why switch, use all 3 they all are useful in different ways

Grafting allows preservation of genetics in your collection if disaster strikes. It's easy to have an entire crop of seedlings wiped out, but if you have one or two representatives grafted, hopefully you will have something to show for your efforts afterwards. It takes a long time to become proficient at growing cacti from seed, especially the small, slow-growing species. And even those really good at it have bad years occasionally.

I purchased some T. spachianus cuts from Florida about a year ago, every single one had very similar black spots when they arrived. New growth in my climate seems to be free of it, so it's very possible it's humidity and fungal related. Doesn't seem to be slowing the plants down at this point, but the new growth without them seems healthier and greener. I don't really know the conditions of the previous grower though, so nutrient deficiency and pests could still have contributed to their formation

Some new additions to the collection, very excited about one of them.. and just another fun Astrophytum, A. capricorne v. niveum nudum Difficult to spot, but some flowers are forming

Wishing I had saved some pollen from an Ario flower or two last fall, but wasn't expecting this plant to flower so early in the season

I agree with EG85, there are a ton of factors to consider. Another is how close to the house or other protective structure are they? How windy will it be and how exposed to the wind are they? My trich's experienced a couple freezes as well after being put outside, but I had to bring in many other species of cacti and succulents. Also, consider that there is a chance that it will dip below what is forecasted; a bunch of my agaves took some frost damage a month or two ago when the temp dropped about 6 degrees below what I was expecting.

Perhaps it is, but I'm very interested to try just about everything for grafting. Either way, I will let you know

I will hopefully be stopping by a private nursery in a couple weeks that I know the owner uses Pereskia as grafting stock. I'm interested in getting some myself, so I'll try to pick up some extra if it's available

It was mentioned in this thread (I think this is what dox was referring to anyways...please correct me if I'm wrong): http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=38093 Vasoline was used lightly around the edge of the graft to prevent moisture loss, and ideally the graft would spend less time in the humidity chamber during healing

With pereskiopsis, I have had great success with just a humidity chamber. Never tried petroleum jelly though, but it seems unnecessary to me. Really the only reason I've had peresk. grafts fail is that they were watered too recently and the scion is engulfed in a droplet of water that forms from the cut vascular tissue of the stock

If you notice, the 'variegation' is only around the area affected by fungus. The infection causes the change in color, and I've seen the exact same thing on more than one of my loph grafts. If you win the battle against the fungus, the plant will look variegated afterwards, but it's not really variegated... It's a good reason to be wary of some plants sold as lightly variegated on certain auction sites. Then again, variegated portions of plants are more susceptible to infection, so it can be hard to tell.

I can't stand those flowers either. Last time I was looking through some Altman plants, they had actually glued fake flowers over actual flower buds. No way they could open, great way to ruin a nice plant.