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Hyphal

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Posts posted by Hyphal

  2. Posted

    Agreed with Harry about the moisture level - waaay to dry... you want the casing layer glistening but NOT wet or puddling. Just moist, you'll get a feel for it as you do it - but definitely give 5 or 6 pumps from a spray bottle and allow it to gently fall and settle on your casing layer.

    Dont stress about the myc coming through - thats what its supposed to do.

  4. Posted

    Coir is not A grade myc food, but if you havent the time or the energy to get some horse poo or straw together, its a cheap and effective way to spawn your colonised grains to and fruit from.

    Its lacking in nutrients, but if you simply add the grounds from a brewed pot of coffee it becomes a reasonably ok substrate.

    You dont need a pressure cooker to make a bulk substrate, you simply stuff your substrate into and oven bag and submerse this bag in a pot of water thats heated to 80C for an hour minimum.

    Another easy way to achieve pasteurised substrate is to simply pour the 80C water into and esky with your substrate and put on the lid for an hour.

  5. Posted

    I think you should leave it, OR, crumble what you have and spawn it to coir or something similar - the problem you are faced with is a result of using WBS to fruit as a cake.

    If you have a fully colonised jar of WBS you should go to the extra *minor* trouble of spawning it next time.

    WBS crumbled and cased will fruit OK on its own - but as a cake, your lucky to get much off it at all.

    Either leave the casing as is, give it a heavy misting and keep it nice and moist - or preferably, crumble what you have now and spawn it to some coir... cheap, effective, and doubles the amount of fruiting mycelium you have in a matter of days - doubling your yield.

  6. Posted

    My thoughts on your shrooms not being the most potent in the world, comes down purely and simply to the fact that there isnt enough nutrients in a pf style cake to support the optimum development of the fruit body - and by optimum, this encompasses everything from size to potency.

    You need to spawn those cakes to a manure based susbtrate or coco coir that has been enriched with used coffee grounds and any other goodies to give your mycelium the nutrients/moisture it needs to thrive.

  8. Posted

    Fantastic grow hyphalknot, great work!

    A foaf recently had a left over cake which he crumbled then covered with cow manure outside and was surprised to find 2 weeks later how much bigger and heavier the fruits were in comparison to the ones that were left in an FC. Different substrates and nutrients really do have a big influence on how mushrooms turn out.

    Once again Hyphal, great grow. Didn't happen to take any prints did you?

    Aya

    A few spores may have accidentally landed on a few small squares of foil... :wink:

    Hey Hyphal,

    Did you pasteurise the poo before you spawned to it?

    The poo/straw mix was partially pasteurised - it was starting to go a little stagnant after the fourth day of composting (forgot to turn it the last day) so I put it in the black bin and poured in 2 large pots of water that were heated to 82C, then left that to sit in the tub for a couple of hours to cool.

    Then the mix was wrung out, a handful at a time, and transferred to a cleaner black bin where the 4 spent casings were crumbled and mixed through. This was covered and left to colonise for a week before casing with peat and a dash of coir which wasnt sterilised at all.

    The original plan was to throw it outside in a bed but the nights are cool so I though it was best to keep it in by the fire.

  9. Posted

    Dear god, that thing's massive!

    Outdoor grow?

    I suppose you could call it a 'semi' outdoor grow...

    There was an outdoor grow being prepared by composting some straw/cow poo for a few days, then 4 old casings were spawned to that in a big black recycling tub. This was meant to be transferred to an outdoor bed, but with concern for the dropping night time temperatures, it was kept in the recycling tub inside next to the fire with a clear plastic sheet draped over to keep in some humidity... That big bastard was a pin that creeped up from the side.

    This is what the tub looked like as it was pinning (a couple popped up early) - you can see gigantacube popping his head up on the right hand side -

    post-1432-1175309363_thumb.jpg

    And at full maturity -

    post-1432-1175309260_thumb.jpg

    post-1432-1175309260_thumb.jpg

    post-1432-1175309363_thumb.jpg

    post-1432-1175309260_thumb.jpg

    post-1432-1175309363_thumb.jpg

  10. Posted

    Holy f'ing Sh*t!!!!!

    Thats huge! How do you remove the stem for printing...? With a chainsaw?

    Got a pick of a print from something around that size?

    Thanx for the eye candy, very impressive!!

    Haha, no didnt bother printing that one, but come to think of it - it would've looked pretty cool framed and hanging on the wall... :)

  12. Posted · Edited by Hyphalknot

    It seems that your gnome should be very careful when hunting for mushrooms, because if he doesnt know where to look he probably wouldnt know the first thing about what he is actually looking for.

    Please remind your gnome of the dangers of hunting for mushrooms with the myriad of deadly mushrooms around, he should not under any circumstances ever eat a mushroom that he finds without it being correctly identified first.

    Edit: Cow pastures are where cubes and copes prefer, by the way. I hope my post didnt sound too harsh, its just that you need to do some research first before asking too many questions.

    Try www.shroomery.org

  13. Posted

    Far out hazza - I wasnt hinting at anything, more thinking out loud about something Ive been meaning to do for a while - but that sounds awesome, hats off to ya - keep us posted....

    What will you be spawning to?

  14. Posted

    Good luck on your step up to casings - I see how you can relate what your saying to cakes as well now.

    Thats one of the main problem with cakes - there is little moisture available to the mycelium, other than the humidity and what water is used in the mixing of the substrate. Think of mycelium like a sponge - it literally 'sucks' up water as they

    are fruiting and this is why you often see cakes that are sitting on a moist bed or verm fruiting from where they contact with this moisture.

    And yes, as chilli said, for casings - there is a lot of moisture available, so dunking is not necessarily the best way to rehydrate - where a cake has no casing layer so does need another method of rehydration.

    I've tried injecting casing with water and had little success with that method - its tedious and the casing doesnt seem to take the water very well. Heavy misting works great after a flush, and I do dunk casings every time - but the few times I havent dunked I havent noticed a HUGE difference, hence why I think the jury is out on dunking casings.

    A side by side trial is what is needed I think - 4 casings, same substrate and strain, same conditions - 2 dunked after first flush, 2 not...

  15. Posted

    Fair enough LOL.

    Can't follow your logic on the water and fruiting side of things though. Mushrooms are how many percent water? I would of thought it obvious that if myc dosen't have water then fruiting is going to be non-existant or painfully slow at best. There is no doubt atmospheric absorbtion as well but not enough to support the growth rate of a fruit body.

    To each his/her own.

    Mushrooms are on average 90% water.

    So why do you think you bring your substrate and casing layer to field capacity then before spawning and casing? Have you seen how much water it actually takes to bring a substrate to field capacity? Thats where they get their moisture from, dunking after the first or subsequent flushes is purely to try and 'put back' the water the first flush took out of the cake/casing.

    Dunking a casing BEFORE its first flush will only delay the flush by the time it takes to dunk and will not speed the process of your first flush up at all and isnt necessary until later flushes...

  16. Posted

    The only thing I would suggest is more fresh air exchanges and a deeper substrate - but really, they sound fine - you can easily print something with a cap the size of a ten cent piece.

    Pics? :drool2:

  17. Posted

    Harry, Dunking does NOT trigger mycelium to fruit - ever.... not even in a controlled environment.

    Some triggers for fruiting are - when the mycelium has used up all available nutrients, or, comes in contact with a natural barrier in the substrate (e.g. a contam); a drop in temperature and light.

    Dunking can possibly aid in re hydrating a cake or casing after each flush but the jury is out whether it really makes that much of a difference anyway, and heavy misting between flushes can be just as effective, but either are not vital to induce fruiting in anyway whatsoever.

  19. Posted

    I Have, on plates

    Hericium erinaceus- Lions mane

    Ganoderma Lucidum - reishi

    Pleurotus Ostreatus - common oyster

    Pleurotus eryngii - King oyster

    Pleurotus djamor - pink oyster (although havn't recultured in ages - maybe lost)

    Pleurotus citrinopileatus - golden oyster

    Lentinula edodes - Shiitake

    Hypsizygus ulmarius - while elm

    Hypholoma sublateritium - chestnut mushroom

    Agrocybe aegerita - pioppino

    Lepista nuda - wood blewit

    and I did have and lost...

    Flammulina velutipes - enoki

    Auricularia polytricha - black wood ear

    It probably doesn't count but I also have

    Rhizopus oligosporus - the fungus used to make tempeh

    Aspergillus oryzae & bacterial blends used to make koji and then miso, Sake, soy sauce etc.

    I'm always looking for more if anyone wants to trade!

    Now THAT is an admirable collection!! Awesome watertrade, will need to speak with you very soon!

  21. Posted

    I think that the climate from where the variety originates is going to be a pretty good clue as to how its going to handle different temps. The one that powered on in my case was from a location on the equator, so its no surprise that it did well at higher temps I suppose.

    I dont agree with that Harry, there definitely ARE optimal temperatures for a SPECIES of mushroom - Im assuming your talking a cube - and there will be very minimal difference for these optimal temps between different strains.

  24. Posted

    I disagree that casing materials need to be sterlised or even pasteurised. Just wet it and stick it on top.

    I also disagree with Harry that 19°c is optimum fruiting temperature. Fruiting will be fairly slow at that temp. Around 25° is best reportedly although temps of 35°C have been observed to have little negative effect.

    Definitely 25C is ideal, and warmer wont hurt either - but, the warmer you go, the more chance you have of contamination and mutated fruits.

    I would STRONGLY advise against adding any H2O2 to any casing layer, and as creach said - although you can quite easily get away without sterilising a casing layer - I'd still recommend doing it at all times anyway.

    The easiest way to do it is go to Coles and get a few 'oven bags' from the glad wrap/foil section (the coles brand ones are the cheapest, you get twice as many in the box as the Glad Brand and you also get a few little twist ties and rubber bands in the box).

    Get your casing mix to very slightly above field capacity (to allow for a little loss through evaporation), stuff it into your oven bags and tie them off with one of the metal twist ties. Bung the bag in the oven for an hour at 110C then let it cool and you viola.

    Its stores well too, what you dont use, simply leave in the bag, tie back up, wrap in a shopping bag and bung in the bottom of the fridge.

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