phytolator
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Posts posted by phytolator
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I've had only good experience with BA.
The prices are reasonable, the shipping quotes are for registered post, but they will charge less for unregisterd if you request it.
They can be hard to contact sometimes, but that is probably more to do with ebay and the messaging system - compounded by them being on the other side of the world.
I always get free extra seeds from them too, and I havent found their germ rates significantly worse than anywhere else that sells them on from another source (Like koehres)
I would suggest tho, that the prices quoted in your example show some pure cv seed against BA's cross - this would explain a little why they are cheaper.
don't hold your breath though, I've only seen BA selling cv crosses.
cv coral is super rare, that's cool you've found a source for it, and if you were willing to share I'd love to know who the Italian lady is selling them!
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Thanks HolographicYou,
I didn't see his seeds although the pudica seed I have grown has been flat not spherical? - I grew them to maturity and even produced more seed so I know the seeds for pudica are flat.
here's two images of the plant from his video posted on IG, showing before and after leaves folding.
Leaves folded in 3 secs of misting..
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Hi All,
I have a friend who is excitied about his young yopo seedling and posted a vid of it closing leaves rapidly in response to his misting spray...
I told him this means it must be actually Mimosa pudica, as that is the only species I know that does that.
All (most?) mimosa, acacia, desmanthus etc... close at night, but I was fairly certain that only PUDICA will rapidly fold it's leaves in response to touch.
He reckons that the seed was legit, supplied by "Herbs of the Gods" in Amsterdam, and has googled and compared the seed of each.
I never saw his seed so I don't know.
It's a very young seedling, so looks like any of 400 similar species right now..
I've grown m. pudica many times, and other acacias, but never yopo.
Wiki's "Rapid Plant Movement" page lists M. pudica, but not A. peregrina as able to fold rapidly...
Can someone confirm yopo does or doesn't rapidly fold it's leaves in response to touch? -
I'm no pro at this, but my uncle is! I just checked the calendar he gave me and it says New Moon to First Quarter.i would have said from first quarter to full moon. i try to follow moon planting as much as possible but applying it to grafting is relatively new to me. im probably interpreting it wrong.
I remembered it wrong!
Apparently this is the time of best vascular activity, so good for graft bonding...
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I think gypsum is sold sometimes labelled as "claybreaker" with the intended purpose of adding it to soil to make it more friable.
I've used it in soil mixes for desert cacti, but you wouldn't want to add heaps, or you might find you've set your plant in plaster!
**I actually ground up Plaster of Paris casts, - PoP is gypsum that has been heated extremely high to cook all the H2O out, my assumption was that once the PoP had been hydrated and set, it was returned to it's "gypsum" state.
I've also experimented with added ground eggshells, which are 90%+ CaCO3.
There has been no way for me to quantify the benefits, but plants have been growing healthily with this in the mix.
I've never liked the way limestone chunks looked in pots, so was keen to try calcareous alternatives.
A gypsum/clay mix also seems to help produce cracks in the surface after watering, which looks rad. :-)
Good luck with your kotschoubeyanus grafting! look forward to updates.
I recently bought a bunch of Kots seeds fom Botanical Archive, in Italy, on Ebay. They have a great selection, including cultivars.-
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from full moon to end of first quarter :-)
**edit*** New Moon to First Quarter!!!!
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Love this thread! Here's just a few..
the same plant 6 months ago, and now. From seed.
Sorry if the pic is sideways, the uploaders acting up on me...
Also from seed, same age
And here is a detail of possibly my favourite twisty guy...
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so a forum search for brevipalpus turned no results so hopefully this is helpful for others also in the future.
if anyone can offer tips for wiping these guys out or confirm the ID it would be appreciated.
they are not spider mites and I have already released phytoseiulus persimilis into the nursery with no effect.
I have another general predatory mite on the way which may or may not help.
once I've finished doing h2o2 flushes for fungus gnat larvae I can find out!
aaargh pests are ruining my life! in a not depressing but comedic tragedy kind if way.
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thanks andyamine! could it be rot even though it is not soft? it doesn't seem very affected at the very base either
are gnats white??
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I noticed the grafted scion losing mass but it wasn't till I pulled the pot out and looked below that I noticed something more than hibernation was responsible!
is this scale damage? I think I flicked off something that was scale, but it was only one and I've see more on other peres that don't have any damage even nearly as advanced.
seen some red spider mites around the collection too, have ordered some predators for that... but I don't think it's them causing this particular problem.
the shrivelled area is not soft at all, just very shrivelled and apparently unable to transport nutrients or water.
have now cut above the damage and will replant ...
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I noticed the grafted scion losing mass but it wasn't till I pulled the pot out and looked below that I noticed something more than hibernation was responsible!
is this scale damage? I think I flicked off something that was scale, but it was only one and I've see more on other peres that don't have any damage even nearly as advanced.
seen some red spider mites around the collection too, have ordered some predators for that... but I don't think it's them causing this particular problem.
the shrivelled area is not soft at all, just very shrivelled and apparently unable to transport nutrients or water.
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thanks team! I will try a 50/50 perlite mix as that's what's on hand.
should I keep it in the small pot then so it cannot retain too much moisture?
appreciate the help, will hopefully be able to post a pic of it not drowning soon :-)
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so, I've had this little cutting a few months, is rooted and it's thrown a few new leaves and has shown healthy progress, but since the temp dropping for autumn it has started to droop and drop some leaves.
I keep the soil slightly moist most the time, and have begun turning a heat mat on under it.... but I want to take care if this droopy, leaf dropping prob before it's too late, any tips much appreciated!
thanks :-)
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noticed this bundle of growth under a fricii grafted on pere, looks somewhat unlike the usual pere sproutling...
I dunno if it just looks weird just because I didn't slice it all off the first attempt - and some more is growing through the initial leaf sprout, or if it is mutating, or "chimera-ing".
probably jumping the gun a bit here, but nevertheless curious to see what anyone else thinks...
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sowed out some newly acquired seeds...
100x LW v. texana
100x LW v. moctezuma
100x L koehresii
30x L jordaniana v. mammilaris
would have liked to have gotten on to this earlier in the season, but it should be ok. got a heat mat :-)
**edit note: soz about the images, they were the right way round before I uploaded them I swear!
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nice, I like
there's this one of a kind book which I loved and bought and it really reminds me of your work.
it's cheap and its most original and awesome, lots of my crazy friends loved it.
Cementimental - Untitled Harsh Noise Graphic Novelthanks mutant! that book looks rad!
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this feller here is my favourite mutant, and has been dancing quite a bit this season!
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thanks guys!
hey, phyto, I wonder what sort of effect this type of drawing, has on to you whilst you do them?
I mean, I would not be surprised if this drawing process, produces some sort of meditative state for you. repetition of similar shapes, I guess you just "do it", without thinking or not?
is it spontaneous or do you think hard before, every new addition structure?It is definitely meditative, to a degree, while I draw them, and I find to look at them too.
As far as process goes, I will just start drawing a wiggly isometric construction and then at some point decide it is time to reflect it.
So there are phases within the work for me that are purely creative, and then those that I am simply replicating.
Of course, the decision of when to begin reflecting symmetrically is also a creative decision.
There are varying degrees of pattern integrity that the work can display... very repetitive with a few dynamic anomalies, or, very organic, with no clear axis of symmetry - while also showing a certain amount of order.
When you are close, the linework is interesting, but when you step back and the details become obscure, it is the shapes in the negative space that become more of a feature.
These works have recently led me down a line of research that has brought "quasicrystals" and "aperiodic order" into view... I'm reading a little about penrose tiles and non-translational symmetry in geometry - which is prevalent in middle-eastern decorative architecture. - I find that last point of interest fascinating because Henri Michaux (French-Belgian Artist Author) believed the "spikey" geometry in the decorations of the middle-east was inspired by hashish, a source of inspiration I am sympathetic to ! :-) (whether Michaux's hypothesis is bogus or not!)-
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There's a lot of talent and inspiring work I'm enjoying around here!
I feel compelled to share some art of my own...
These are done using acrylic ink and a nib, usually to cover a 50cm x70cm sheet of paper.
current work in progress...
further detail of same work below..
a couple of others
Enjoy!-
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Well I brought a pair from ebay only to have customs seize them at the border as the cities cert was filled in incorrectly by the seller as was the phytosanitary certificate. (Cities cert "non compliant and invalid" also only "suggests" one cactus, photosanitary cert lists one anti mite chemical not the two needed and item was dipped for 1 min instead of 2.5 min and is also "non compliant and invalid")
I'm told by them that even if I were to somehow get new compliant certificates I could only have one of the cactus as only one was "suggested" on the original cities cert, not the two in the package. Funny how the cert is invalid but that part of it still counts...
The upshot is that they are going to MURDER my cacti.
Rather an expensive failure...
Oh well, it saves me from having to make up tiny bra's for them.
That's terrible!!!! oh noooo!
I bet that lousy perv has taken your fair green mistress as his own!! "non-compliant" my ass!
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what's the point?
the cacti are distinct, so are they suggesting they be referred to as botanical varieties or cultivars instead of species?
bloody semantics
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That tall graft is awesome dawnbeaver!! I've just been ogling your photo series of the same graft in the "flower heavy" thread...
Did you keep the graft humid in the initial days? apply any downward pressure?
I've had only limited success grafting to trichs but am now itching to have another hoon on it! :-) -
Where did you source the gypsum and clay?
the clay I scraped from the base of a cliff, it is quite a grey-brown clay.
the gypsum was scraped from cast plaster.
*plaster of paris is gypsum that has had the water cooked out of it, plaster that has been wetted again (such as done in plaster casting) returns it to gypsum. <that is my understanding anyway! :-)
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I had a couple of questions about your mix mate, like are the four things you listed all that is in your mix? If so do you remember ratios? Also how well does your mix drain & dry.
There is a bit of scoria and coco-coir in he base, the shell mix sits mostly in the top inch or 2 (depending on the size of pot/plant)
unfortunately I didn't record my ratios but my process was >
mix the clay and gypsum first, adding just a enough G to the C to lighten it a bit.
then stir in a few healthy teaspoons of ground seashell, eggshell, or both.
I was reasonably unrestrained in the amount of shell I put in, and I was careful not to put in too much gypsum.
There was a bit of larger pieces of shell or scoria that I popped in too.
It is not terribly fast draining! They will not be bone dry again for a day or more but I do make sure they are totally dry between waterings, and won't normally water more often than fortnightly.
I have just moved them out of full sun last week. They would dry quite quickly on the sill but I worried about their sun exposure.
So now they are a few feet back, getting dappled light only for less hours - but still in a bright room with white painted walls...
I noticed a bit of orange on one pic and something similar on another, so you might want to let let them go through an extended dry cycle or possibly excavate around them a bit to ensure it's just superficial & Lophs really don't need much feeding so I'd hold back until the orange is under control.
I will take your advice Sally and abstain from watering the oranged ones for at least 3 weeks :-) thanks!
the orange has been there for a while and has actually improved, but when I touched some of it with the butt of a teaspoon it did seem soft... I'm hoping it's just a superficial husk, healed from a previous wound that has gotten soft with water.
That looks very nice. I've recently been looking for a mix to transition my seedlings that are in 80/20 sand/worm castings to. I'll take this into consideration. I love the natural look it has.
I would love to see one of my lophophora alberto-vojtechii poking their heads through that.
thanks! I currently have 3/10 germinated albertos getting through some right now! wish I had more, but those seeds are spenno...
are yours grown from seed?
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Ariocarpus chimera
in Cacti & Succulents
Posted · Edited by phytolator
So I just noticed a strange new growth below the scion, coming from an areole on the pereskiopsis.
Looks ariocarpus-esque, the scion is fissuratus.
dont know if it's a chimera yet, or the scion pupping below the union (just as strange??) but I'll be keeping an eye on it!
*sorry pics are sideways!!! 8-D
has anyone seen similar before? Would be very keen to hear of it.