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# 3 Seeds and cuttings

It has come to my attention that when taking cactus cuttings do so in the cooler months..autumn and winter..reason being is that the tip will not be likely to keep growing, therefore when its planted there is no etoiliation of the tip...that skinny looking tip growth is unsightly and undesirable. If cuts are taken in the dormant season they don't continue to grow and you can callous them over for a couple of months somewhere dry...when things warm up again get them in the soil and they will continue to grow at the size they where when you took the cutting.

H.

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#14, gardening sayings:

loose lips sink ships!

quite a few times, we have read stories here, where a forum member showed full of pride his collection to some "friends" and a few weeks later all the lophs and other stuff had been stolen.

it's hard not to share the excitement, but if you tell a lot of people about your special interresst, you often ask for trouble.

guess what, i used to smoke dope, and once i had a small plant growing right at my neighbours entrance door, and nobody ever noticed it. but than when i shared at times some smoke with them, as a thank you they broke into my flat and stole a few small cannabis plants.

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#4 Watering/fertilizers

Dilute urine to 10-15 parts water to 1 part urine for application on plants in the growth stage. Dilute to 30-50 parts water to 1 part urine for use on pot plants.

Trees, shrubs and lawn should cope well without dilution. Withhold the use of urine liquid fertilizer on all food plants at least two weeks before harvesting. Apply under fruiting plants, not directly on foliage.

Just so that you know, fresh human urine is sterile (unless there is a urinary tract infection – this urine should not be used) and so free from bacteria.

Don’t use urine older than 24hours on your plants as the urea turns into ammonia and will burn your plants. If it’s not fresh, add it to your compost heap. Adding undiluted human urine to your compost heap will help heat it up quickly as it is an excellent activator and will add to the final nutrient value.

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i did some experiments and found weeds died if i pissed on them 3 times.

pissed directly on cactii and established bushes to no ill effect.didnt do it 3 times though.

nitrogen,phosphorus,growth hormones depending on diet........

t s t .

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#14, general gardening tips:

if you just bought a plant or traded and it's the first time you grow in general or just this specific plant, my tip is to read on the subject, and to do a lot of searches and more reading!

than after you read a lot, you can go and start a thread, and go on asking questions and filling in the blanks.

but to just right away, ask for the "how to do" things is a big no, no, as basicly, you would like us to do the work for you.

whilst if we can see, you are new to the subject, but you have done your own research allready, we all thrive on this!!

very often in those researches you might find something interressting, and this is what it's all about at the forums, the exchange of knowledge.

if you follow this simple step, you will never be disheartend by people telling you to use the search engine! :lol:

so it's:

got the plant > does his/her own research > than post his/her questions > everybody happy

Edited by planthelper
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#3 seed, cuttings probagation:

often one uses a humidety dome or a softdrink bottle glasshouse to probagate seedlings or cuttings, well after the seedlings emerged, or the cutting has "struck" one needs to harden out the plant, and this is a good thread about this subject.

a very good setup for seedlings or cuttings is a vegetable foam box (styro foam) from the supermarket covered with an old window. than when you want to reduce the humidety, just slide the window and allowe a gap, than gratiually increase this gap, till you take the frame of glass off.

http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry215554

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#3, seeds, cuttings

Seed storage: Keep in an airtight container with a handful of rice to reduce moisture, keep in a cool, dark space. Keeping some seeds in a refrigerator can also help increase the freshness and viability over a long period of time.

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Illegal Botanicals in Oz-

papaver somniferum,

erythroxylum spp;

mitragyna speciosa,

salvia divinorum,

cannabis spp;

Illegal Botanicals in the U.S.A.-

"Marijuana" ~ Cannabis species

"'Shrooms" ~ Psilocybin containing Mushrooms

"Opium Poppy" ~ Papaver somniferum

"Peyote" ~ Lophophora williamsii

"Khat" ~ Catha edulis

"Coca" ~ Erythroxylum coca

"Iboga ~ Tabernanthe iboga

Edited by Teotz'

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#14, spartan gardening sayings, general tips:

#So it's the dead of winter and not much happening in the garden, particularly if you live in temperate zones and further south...spring is not that far away so why not use the last month of winter to ready your garden for those first few warm months...prune and cut off all dead or old branches from trees, shrubs, ornamentals, strip manky old leaves off your caapi vines, collect any seed pods that are lingering on any plants and store them somewhere nice and dry ready for trade or spring sowing. You could get out there and pull out all that oxalis and any other unsightly weeds now while it's cool.

#Go grab yourself some potting mix, perlite, coarse sand, cured manure or any other soil additive and mix up the perfect blend in a large volume like a fish tub or two, and store ready to use in spring for all those cactus or ethno plant transplant jobs.

# Spray some pesticide if you have to around under all the edges of plastic pots to inhibit the infestation of spiders, particularly red backs.

# If you have several nice choice cactus cuttings waiting for spring to plant out, you can get your cactus soil of choice, fill your pot to the depth you wish the cutting to grow from, then place a 2 inch layer of straight dry perlite on top of the soil, sit your cutting just on top of the perlite, place the pot somewhere sheltered, out of the rain and warm and then when the first signs of any warm weather come you can push the cutting in a little lower to almost meet the soil, place out in the sun and give a gentle watering.

# Use the winter to go through all your seeds, sort them out, decide which you don't need and won't be planting,and stick them up for someone to have in the seed and plant exchange forum so they don't go to waste, you're not going to plant them... so why have them become nonviable when someone else could happily plant them.

In the very first week of spring mix up a half strength batch of your favorite organic fertilizer and water into all your plants that could use that touch of extra help to kick start their new season growth.

#Rake up or sweep up all those crappy old bits of leaves and debris that you have been gathering in your yards and patios that you have neglected and start a new small compost heap with them.

Clear out any house guttering of leaves and crap and throw it all into the new compost pile too. You don't want those heavy springs to come and your gutters are all blocked with plant matter do you, besides it's better to work out in the sun now than when it's blazing hot.

H.

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Yeah rice is good for preventing mould and absorbing moisture in stored seeds,but remember to pick out the rice before sowing.I got lazy and spread it with my seed when sowing ,mice were attracted and destroyed all my seedlings and ate remaining seeds looking for more rice.

Edited by blowng

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#3 - Propagation (seeds):

Generalised seed-raising technique -

This is a method I've found posting to people many times over the years. I recently posted it to somebody in a thread and figured I'd just copy my generalised seed-raising method to store in here.

Only got a small ammount of seeds and want to ensure that you get a good germination rate??? Here is your guide..

This is basically the standard seed propagation technique used in horticultural practices in Australia, but modified a bit for home usage.

-----------

Firstly:

Find out about any pre-treatments needed to be applied to the seeds for germination for example Acacia sp. like to be covered in boiling water and left over night so they swell up before sowing, or like scratching HBWR seeds and soaking.

Get a seed tray and NOT A POT:

The standard size ones if you're germinating lots, or those little ones you often see herbs sold in at garden centres. If its been used before in the industry they sterilise them in chlorinated water and rinsed... but I just generally rinse under hot water.

Make a mix:

Ultimately you don't want any type of organic material like bark etc that is found in potting mixes. Store bought seedraising mixes are rubbish as well for that very reason. So make your own.

4 parts propagation sand, 1 part perlite and 5 parts peat moss.

Make sure you break up any clumps in the peat and that it's fully moistened before mixing in because it won't mix properly other wise and won't serve its water retention purpose.. Also get the good stuff in the smaller bags at your local garden centre instead of the big cheaper stuff.

Commercially they use a 50:50 sand to peat as their standard but there sand is a much more coarse grade which you generally don't see at garden centres.

Once you make this mix you can store leftover it in a sealed container (like a bucket with gladwrap or something), kept in a cool dark spot. Water a made up tray before you put the seeds on if the mix has dried out over time.

Making up the tray:

Put mix into the tray and tamp it down level and evenly so there is about 5mm of room left.

Scatter seeds evenly along surface... if the seeds are really fine, mix them in with some ordinary sand for easier distrubtion.

Cover surface completely with a layer of a fine grade vermiculite to fill the 5mm of space left.

Watering:

The first watering is very important in prop techniques. It basically serves to make the air filled porosity even throughout the medium.

Water with a fine rose on your can. Have the tray on level surface like a rack where it can still drain evenly out the bottom. I used to just use a patch of scoria in my yard that I made level. Water from a decent height for a wider spread over the tray and keep watering for a bit longer once the water level is at the vermiculite level. Let it drain and settle before moving.

Keep in a warm place out of direct sunlight. A bit of a homemade humidity environment is good but it still needs to breathe.

Water by misting the surface regularly and never letting it dry out.

Alternatives to trays:

You can apply the same method using 2 inch tubes, or punnet trays, with individual seeds instead of a seed tray quite successfully as well.

I generally use 2" tubes for big seeds and natives, but I like to put a little bit of perlite at the bottom for drainage.

----

Transplant seedlings before they start to stretch too much... roots coming out the bottom of the tray is a sign they've been in there for too long.

Take out clumps out of the tray using a stick and remove seedlings being gentle on the roots.

Fill up the container your potting on, holding the seedling at its stem at the level you want it to be, and filling in the surrounding area with potting mix so the roots aren't all squashed up. Then press soil down on surface gently, water through like your seed tray, and you're done.

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# General gardening tip...

If the plants you are trying to grow are to reach and grow at their full potential, surrounding unwanted plants..ie; weeds, will compete for growing space and nutrients beneath the soil.

TIP; be vigilant and continuously remove unwanted plants ( weeds ) from around your prize plants to continuously give them optimal growing conditions.

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# General gardening tip...

If the plants you are trying to grow are to reach and grow at their full potential, surrounding unwanted plants..ie; weeds, will compete for growing space and nutrients beneath the soil.

TIP; be vigilant and continuously remove unwanted plants ( weeds ) from around your prize plants to continuously give them optimal growing conditions.

#Cont. of gardening tip.

Another reason to keep on top down of weeds is they are often host to or suseptable to pests and diseases that gets passed onto your plants...

I suggest using sugar cane mulch - you need to reapply every few months but the plants love the stuff.

Companion planting is another way to go. There are a variety of different plants that serve to deter pests and also ones that put nitrogen into the soil (i.e. plants from Leguminosae).

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Say a person had a Sage plant, which was placed under a hps lamp for a while, relizing the growth rate was rather slow, moved the plant to a glasshouse with high humidity and only 1 -2 hrs of direct morning light, after the sage plant got spider mite it was sprayed with eco pest oil and put under the shade of a tree.

in theory due to lack of proper information, the plant seems to be very slow growing.

after a fair amount of research the person has deducted that sage plants grow best in humid, low light areas.

the problem is every seperate piece of information recieved almost completely contradicts the other. for example.

Growing sage under MH or HPS 18hrs light

Growing Sage outdoors, low light, high humidity but relatively low heat around the 20s.

Getting to my point, is there anyone who would possible know the best condition sage would thrive in on the north coast of nsw, would it do best in a shade house outdoors, outdoors under a tree, indoors under mh or hps or in a humid glass house?

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Say a person had a Sage plant, which was placed under a hps lamp for a while, relizing the growth rate was rather slow, moved the plant to a glasshouse with high humidity and only 1 -2 hrs of direct morning light, after the sage plant got spider mite it was sprayed with eco pest oil and put under the shade of a tree.

in theory due to lack of proper information, the plant seems to be very slow growing.

after a fair amount of research the person has deducted that sage plants grow best in humid, low light areas.

the problem is every seperate piece of information recieved almost completely contradicts the other. for example.

Growing sage under MH or HPS 18hrs light

Growing Sage outdoors, low light, high humidity but relatively low heat around the 20s.

Getting to my point, is there anyone who would possible know the best condition sage would thrive in on the north coast of nsw, would it do best in a shade house outdoors, outdoors under a tree, indoors under mh or hps or in a humid glass house?

this thread is not realy the right place for your question, but anyway i will try to shape my answere so it fits in with general info....

in gardening there are many different ideas, methodes and rules around and some of them seem to contradict each other

but with more experience one can get an understanding and an insight into those different aproaches.

anyway, most sages like lot's of light, but the square stemmed one, not as much.

however, i can imagen that 18h of light indoors could produce incredible growth with sage plants, but only if you are experienced and know what you are doing.

for the beginner, it's better to use less light and maybe place the plant rather outdoors in a very protected spot.

the sage, we talk about can be quite a fuzzy plant to cultivate for a lot of people, specialy for beginners, who often think that all plants ought to be treated like indian hemp in cultivation...

atlas, i think you are best off reading a lot of the old salvia threads and if that doesn't help, start a new thread asking for some insights into your problems,

happy growing!!

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Illegal Botanicals in Oz-

papaver somniferum,

erythroxylum spp;

mitragyna speciosa,

salvia divinorum,

cannabis spp;

Are there any other plants that are illegal to grow in Oz? I'm talking about psychoactive plants, not invasion species.

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# 3 Seeds and cuttings

viridis seems to lose leaves once in a while :), so instead of wasting the leaf, plant under your plant and water in, and hopefully after a couple of months youll have some lil ones.

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Illegal Botanicals in Oz-

papaver somniferum,

erythroxylum spp;

mitragyna speciosa,

salvia divinorum,

cannabis spp;

Are there any other plants that are illegal to grow in Oz? I'm talking about psychoactive plants, not invasion species.

pppfffttt...!!!

and that's all I have to say about this thread...

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....

I've been wondering for ages and never asked.......so whats the deal with the picture and who is it?

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ok, i will try to sort a few things with this thread...

atlas, i think you refere to the pic of the man with the fish, and that's i think happy cadaver, who started the original thread. i think to remeber that it was composed in a very passionate style and basicly a very good thread.

than, the original content got deleted by the original author, which definately caused many problems.

i unlocked the topic and left the forum without any sticky, till chiral opend another thread which became the new sticky.

go to post 57 to start reading this topic!!

this new sticky topic had though only a very few views compared to some other forums stickies,

so i decided to merge those two topics, just for the sake of trying to make this forum look as good as possible.

i admitted, that this desicion, would be found as poor choice by some, but generaly people did not seem to mind.

in other words, the plant forum, before the merger, looked to me like a ferrari with an emblem of a mitsubishi,

the emblem naturaly represets itselfe by the sticky postcount.

why should the whole plant forum suffer, just because some people delete there posts?

Edited by planthelper

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ok, i will try to sort a few things with this thread...

atlas, i think you refere to the pic of the man with the fish, and that's i think happy cadaver, who started the original thread. i think to remeber that it was composed in a very passionate style and basicly a very good thread.

than, the original content got deleted by the original author, which definately caused many problems.

i unlocked the topic and left the forum without any sticky, till chiral opend another thread which became the new sticky.

go to post 57 to start reading this topic!!

this new sticky topic had though only a very few views compared to some other forums stickies,

so i decided to merge those two topics, just for the sake of trying to make this forum look as good as possible.

i admitted, that this desicion, would be found as poor choice by some, but generaly people did not seem to mind.

in other words, the plant forum, before the merger, looked to me like a ferrari with an emblem of a mitsubishi,

the emblem naturaly represets itselfe by the sticky postcount.

why should the whole plant forum suffer, just because some people delete there posts?

I just think that you based your decision to merge it based on views but the thread had been pinned and was still very very new...it takes a while to accumilate views, but I'm of the opinion that it's about quality not quantity and people were really posting some high quality gardening tips...I'm still hopeful you will resurect the gardening tips as a thread on it's own as hapy cadaver is no longer a member here and went out in a blaze of abuse towards Torsten and is now seen as the thread starter.

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I have some tips on cuttings, make a humdity dome or buy one, when cuttings are taken close all air access and flood with co2, every day or so.

If you don't have access to co'2 tanks (for welding or food prep) you can simply dissolve sugar in warm water (NOT HOT) in a clean coke bottle and add activated yeast and place a sealed plastic bag over the top of the bottle to collect the co2, then squeeze the bag into the humidity dome.

I find cuttings strike rate is much higher as well as faster rooting.

My method is purchasing alc 24hr turbo yeast and keep a living culture in a bottle and keep feeding it, sit the bottle on a warm fridge motor top or something and as long as you keep feeding it sugar it will send you co2.

Edited by Atlas

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can we stop this non topic talk right now, it will otherwise damage this thread even further.

if technicly possible for me, i plan to move the post 122 so you can continue wasting my time, but without doing more damage to this thread.

i got no desire to argue against your statements chiral! torsten, i am sure of gives a damm about that happy cadaver started the original thread.

and the other thing is, that i don't think he would ever fight my decisions,

even if he is of another opinon.

i made my decision, i told you (chiral) 3 times already, stopp wasting my time, cheers!!

Edited by planthelper

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