CβL Posted August 19, 2011 I have only performed one successful graft (of two) of a 3m.o. seedling, and it was on Selenicereus. The guy who gave me the Selenicereus said he preferred it over Pereskiopsis. Furthermore, I can't seem to get my Pere cuttngs to damn root anyway. But Selenicereus has no glochids. A winner is thus chosen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted August 19, 2011 Yeah Naja, I'd say you're right. I figured it was something like that, but I couldn't be bothered creating such a setup for them. Maybe I'll do something like that this season. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
naja naja Posted August 19, 2011 I have only performed one successful graft (of two) of a 3m.o. seedling, and it was on Selenicereus. The guy who gave me the Selenicereus said he preferred it over Pereskiopsis. Furthermore, I can't seem to get my Pere cuttngs to damn root anyway. But Selenicereus has no glochids. A winner is thus chosen. Cut pere into 10-15cm lengths with seccy's and put into pot, keep soil moist, do not callous. Simple, easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CβL Posted August 19, 2011 15cm you say... Not 5cm then... ;o And "with seccy's"? What does that mean? And how moist should the soil be? General cactus rooting moist? Or more? I really do feel n00b for not being able to root Pereskiopsis. :/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
naja naja Posted August 19, 2011 5cm would be fine too, I'm talking like normal soil moistness, and I mean seceuteers or however it is spelt, not razor plade needed IME. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rahli Posted August 19, 2011 I've had no trouble grafting. Haven't done it in a while though. From memory Peres grafting goes something like this - Plant Peres in 100 mm diameter plastic pots, 50 mm above the soil 50mm below. Place pots in tray to ensure ample water supply. Grow until 200mm in height to ensure the stock has a booming root system that will support a huge healthy button. Cease watering Peres for 1-2 days before the graft. Cut growing tip of Peres with sharp blade Cut peyote seed with fresh razor blade Slide cut seedling onto Peres cut tip Fit cut mount Franklin 1l bottle over graft and into the 100mm pot (tight fit) mist inside of bottle first Leave in shade with lid on the bottle Open the lid after around 3 days Give bit of water once you can see the join has formed approximately 5 days from memory When confident water every day or two Move into shade house until around 1cm Then move out into full sun and watch her boom. Use water trays under graft pots 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lhb2444 Posted August 19, 2011 All my peres stock have pretty well failed to bluntmuffin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted August 19, 2011 I think that single most important thing in getting a graft to succeed apart from union/pressure is the state of the stock. has to be active and growing and in the good days of the period for maximal rates! failing to root pere?? cheez i thought you were a decent grower blunt 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted August 20, 2011 another very important tip regardless of the stock and scion and technique. Cut the stock in its soft, fresh parts, not older, harder parts below. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted September 1, 2011 It seems I jumped the gun in my conclusions. This graft is 2 weeks old. And it seems to have taken. Hurrah! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Khala Posted September 1, 2011 Good on you Marcel, nice graft Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philocacti Posted September 1, 2011 that's great Marcel, good luck also, making a straight clean cut is very important with pereskiopsis grafting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted September 2, 2011 Thanks Khala! Thanks Philo! Philo: It was your thread about one of your grafts that initially inspired me to try grafting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ulca Posted September 2, 2011 still havent popped that cherry... im guessing 3 is a perfect number... Just dont want to hurt any roots.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philocacti Posted September 2, 2011 Thanks Khala! Thanks Philo! Philo: It was your thread about one of your grafts that initially inspired me to try grafting. Thanks This means a lot to me Once you'll get the hang of grafting you will take off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mutant Posted September 4, 2011 Hurray marcelo!!! this is the time to try to graft for you, now not when stocks are sleeping, but when stocks are going wild with growth - depends on your growing season . Pereskiopsis are warmth loving cacti, for me, they 'wake up' late at the season, almost as late as argyreia wakes up and throws green growth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nut Posted September 20, 2011 Ok, grafting doesn't suck, but I sure suck at grafting. I've just had my 6th graft fail. I know that's not a great deal, but I was enjoying my winning streak with all things cactus and succulent. I followed Teo's guide to the letter... I quit. Eh. man if thats you your me in another 10-15 yrs my mum and sis think so too!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nut Posted September 20, 2011 Bongchitis: I think it's always a matter of osmotic pressure popping the graft off for me too. I've got pretty limited Trich stock at the moment, but there's shitload of Cereus I could use. Anyone using Cereus for Loph grafts? there was a bloke from africa usin cereus and his went OFF and spiraled Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel Posted September 20, 2011 Nut: that ain't me. I look much more homeless than the guy in that photo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gilligan Posted September 20, 2011 I just did 18 trich grafts.. Cut stock, cut scion, put scion on stock so rings are slight offcentre, pull thin stocking over it (TIGHTLY) and hang it in the spines, keeps the pressure on. Don't do it on hot dry days, cooler rainy are good, and then you won't need the humidity chambers. This can lead to rot with pachs. My trich grafts take me all of a minute nowadays... Re Peres, have them growing, cut 0.5 - 1cm from top, cut scion, before putting the scion on, take a fleshy leaf from further down stock, break and squeeze leaf juice on the top of stock. Place scion offcentre, and then carefully place into something you can cover to keep humid. For some reason people get scared with grafting. Treat em mean and they like you better I've found. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites